โAug-20-2020 06:15 AM
โAug-22-2020 07:48 AM
dclark1946 wrote:
I thought you were referring to the rooftop RV evaporative cooler where you would keep a window open for proper operation. The reason your cooler did not work is because it kept raising the interior humidity level to the point that very little evaporative cooling could occur. These coolers only work when you have a continued fresh supply of outside air.
โAug-22-2020 06:29 AM
dclark1946 wrote:
These coolers only work when you have a continued fresh supply of outside air.
โAug-22-2020 04:57 AM
pianotuna wrote:dclark1946 wrote:pianotuna wrote:
Chum lee,
Where I live--I do on occasion run a humidifier in my RV. But never in the summer. Our relative humidity goes from 4% to 84% on a yearly basis.
Even with our relatively low humidity I found the swamp cooler I bought, rated for 500 square feet, did just about nothing for the 241 square feet in my class C.
Here is the one I was referencing: https://www.turbokool.net/product-p/2b-0001-turbokool-swamp-cooler.htm
They don't share the picture--how odd of them.
Did you open a window to allow the outside air pulled into the evaporative cooler to push the trailer air outside? These systems are commonly used for interior cooling in dry climates where the cooling is greater and increase in interior humidity is a desired benefit. We used evaporative cooling in Dallas when I was a kid with cooler pads in three windows and a centrally located attic fan that pulled outside air through the wet pads and exhausted interior air out through the attic.
Hi,
The unit I purchased is a "stand alone" device that recirculates the air in the room. It did lower the temperature of the out put air--but there was too little cooling going on to keep up with the sun--even thought I had purchased something that was supposed to be good for double the area I was attempting to cool.
โAug-22-2020 04:49 AM
Chum lee wrote:dclark1946 wrote:
Chum lee,
The evaporative cooling system I am proposing raises the humdity only of the outside air passing through the condenser unless the RV A/C is not sealed properly and allows leakage between outside and interior (conditioned) air. It should function like the home central A/C system I referred to in my original post. Not only does the humidified cooled air benefit the condenser because of the lower temperature but the denser humid cool air is more efficient in removing heat from the condenser coils.
I understand what you are doing and I agree with you. It will work. However, how much time have you spent traveling/living in an RV? Most who have realize that water is always at a premium when they are out and about. (boondocking/camping/fishing/hunting/etc.) If you prefer to stay in an RV park, generally, water/electricity/sewage are no big deal. IMO, you are trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist.
I don't know what else to say to you other than "live and learn."
Chum lee
โAug-21-2020 04:43 PM
dclark1946 wrote:pianotuna wrote:
Chum lee,
Where I live--I do on occasion run a humidifier in my RV. But never in the summer. Our relative humidity goes from 4% to 84% on a yearly basis.
Even with our relatively low humidity I found the swamp cooler I bought, rated for 500 square feet, did just about nothing for the 241 square feet in my class C.
Here is the one I was referencing: https://www.turbokool.net/product-p/2b-0001-turbokool-swamp-cooler.htm
They don't share the picture--how odd of them.
Did you open a window to allow the outside air pulled into the evaporative cooler to push the trailer air outside? These systems are commonly used for interior cooling in dry climates where the cooling is greater and increase in interior humidity is a desired benefit. We used evaporative cooling in Dallas when I was a kid with cooler pads in three windows and a centrally located attic fan that pulled outside air through the wet pads and exhausted interior air out through the attic.
โAug-21-2020 04:29 PM
dclark1946 wrote:
Chum lee,
The evaporative cooling system I am proposing raises the humdity only of the outside air passing through the condenser unless the RV A/C is not sealed properly and allows leakage between outside and interior (conditioned) air. It should function like the home central A/C system I referred to in my original post. Not only does the humidified cooled air benefit the condenser because of the lower temperature but the denser humid cool air is more efficient in removing heat from the condenser coils.
โAug-21-2020 03:17 PM
pianotuna wrote:
Chum lee,
Where I live--I do on occasion run a humidifier in my RV. But never in the summer. Our relative humidity goes from 4% to 84% on a yearly basis.
Even with our relatively low humidity I found the swamp cooler I bought, rated for 500 square feet, did just about nothing for the 241 square feet in my class C.
Here is the one I was referencing: https://www.turbokool.net/product-p/2b-0001-turbokool-swamp-cooler.htm
They don't share the picture--how odd of them.
โAug-21-2020 03:07 PM
โAug-21-2020 03:01 PM
โAug-21-2020 01:37 PM
pianotuna wrote:Chum lee wrote:
Key words: Home (residential) system, not motorhome. (there is a difference) Hey look, bang your head against the wall. Make evaporative cooling work in a motorhome and you could be the next Bill Gates, Elon Musk, etc. Good luck to you!
Chum lee
Chum Lee,
There is, or was, a commercially available evaporatetive cooler designed for use in an RV. However, it was about the same price as a regular roof top unit.
โAug-21-2020 10:50 AM
Chum lee wrote:
Key words: Home (residential) system, not motorhome. (there is a difference) Hey look, bang your head against the wall. Make evaporative cooling work in a motorhome and you could be the next Bill Gates, Elon Musk, etc. Good luck to you!
Chum lee
โAug-21-2020 10:05 AM
โAug-21-2020 08:54 AM
dclark1946 wrote:Chum lee wrote:dclark1946 wrote:Chum lee wrote:
Yep, it works, but only in hot dry climates when you have a relatively pure inexhaustible water source. Try that in the desert in any MH. Come on guys, you have ask yourself WHY ALL the major HVAC manufacturers DO NOT do this for their factory installations. It's all you 100 mpg carburetor, fuel additive, free energy, Banks chip tuning, tweaky guys who want to talk endlessly about these things. (with NO long term substantiated evidence)
Chum lee
The quality of the water is not an issue since you are not spraying water on the condenser coils. You are pulling hot ambient air over a wet pad and part of the pad moisture evaporates which cools the air before it passes over the condenser coils. The water that does not evaporate returns to the reservoir and is pumped back up to the top of the pad. You only have to replace the water that evaporates from the pad. In the example I gave in Dallas we had 113 deg air temp one summer and the air leaving the Aspen pad was 85 deg. That dropped the compressor high side pressure and reduces the power consumption. For a 95 deg day the electrical consumption was reduced about 14%. Even better I was not losing BTU capacity as the temp went above 95.
Well, we'll have to disagree on that. Eventually the dissolved solid content of the water precipitates out on the pads, (or someplace else) unless you flush the system regularly. That's why you have to replace the pads. Lived in the deserts SW for years. This is no news. I suggest you take/pass a college level general chemistry class. Not a sales/marketing class.
Chum lee
Theoretically you are correct however we have a significant amount of minerals in our Dallas water supply and from a practical standpoint it was not an issue. I operated our evaporative cooling home central A/C assist for about 6 years each full cooling season and replaced the pad at the beginning of each season and the cooling remained effective over the season.
If you recall, the earlier residential central A/C systems condensers were water cooled. The heated water was pumped to a redwood cooling tower which sprayed the water downward at the top of the tower and the water dripped down the wood tower slats partially evaporating and cooling the water which was then collecting at the bottom of the reservoir and then pumped back to the condensor. These systems were more efficient compared to the air cooled systems introduced later. The major issue with the cooling towers was algae buildup requiring periodic draining and flushing and addition of chemicals to minimize algae growth.
With regard to taking a college level chemistry class, I have a MS in electrical engineering so yes I have completed college level chemistry. I was inspired to investigate this technique to improve residential A/C efficiency after discussing this with mechanical engineers that worked on the same government DOD program I did. They were building their own version of this type of cooling system.
โAug-21-2020 08:41 AM
dclark1946 wrote:
Your calcium filter work pretty good for you. Which one did you use?
โAug-21-2020 08:38 AM
red31 wrote:dclark1946 wrote:
I decided to not pursue the misting approach partially due to the issues you mentioned as well as mineral buildup on the condenser coils. I would however be interested in any test data you can share with/without misters vs temp.
I used 1/2" PVC coupler with brass mister, 24v irrigation valve powered via outside compressor unit, wall mounted thermostat to come on over 90F, inline calcium filter. Final config (Mr. Mister) was PVC on the ground ~12" from unit with 2 misters per 3 sides. Measured rotation of electric meter with mist was 10% longer for one revolution. Misters clogged often, 20+y/o freon unit, replaced that winter. IIRC, 10F drop in exit air temp.