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A/C on When Connected to 110

USMC46
Explorer
Explorer
Have parked my coach in a very humid environment and would like to run one of the roof A/Cs to keep the humidity down. Will one unit run OK while hooked up to 110 ? Thanks.
Jim & Carmel

2016 Escape 17b
2017 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk With Factory Tow Package
15 REPLIES 15

sc3283
Explorer
Explorer
wow, folks really?? So these roof top RV AC units are made to run 24/7/365? I realize folks full time in them and realize folks do use the AC...but really? Your going to try and tell me that the roof top AC unit is going to last like a S&B unit? Many folks that full time realize they have more repair costs with some equipment as compared to a S&B home...Notice I said some? Not everyone realizes this. Not everyone realizes many things in an RV do not operate or do have limitations unlike our S&B home equipment...

I was simply trying to let the OP know...the life expectancy of an RV rooftop AC unit is NOT that of a S&B AC unit...and with the size of the RV....and the heat gain these things have....1 AC unit may never dehumidify to the OP's satisfaction, especially if the coach is parked in high humid areas with 90+ temps and happens to see direct sunlight....If an AC unit can not overcome the heat(due to being overworked), it can not attempt to dehumidify....right?

SO before being SO quick to bash....think a WEE bit first!!
04 D-Max Crew Dually

96 Monaco Dynasty 36'

SolidAxleDurang
Explorer
Explorer
Bob Landry wrote:
SolidAxleDurango wrote:
sc3283 wrote:
usmc, do remember that RV AC units arent built like a home unit...running continuous as your wanting will definitely shorten the usable life of the unit


I wonder what full timers do?


They do what everyone else does, run the AC. As long as the operating pressures remain within the correct parameters, it will not hurt a compressor to run non-stop.


Yup. My point.... Every now and then I wonder where some posters on this forum come up with their ideas? Many times they are obviously not well thought out.
TV = 15 Ram 3500 Dually 6.7 / CC-LB / CTD / Aisin / 3.42 / 4wd / EBrake
5er = 12 Keystone Avalanche 330RE
Toys = 08 Kawasaki Brutie Force 650i 4x4 ( x2 ๐Ÿ™‚ ) 14 Arctic Cat Wildcat 1000

Bob_Landry
Explorer
Explorer
SolidAxleDurango wrote:
sc3283 wrote:
usmc, do remember that RV AC units arent built like a home unit...running continuous as your wanting will definitely shorten the usable life of the unit


I wonder what full timers do?


They do what everyone else does, run the AC. As long as the operating pressures remain within the correct parameters, it will not hurt a compressor to run non-stop.
2011 Keystone Outback 277RL

SolidAxleDurang
Explorer
Explorer
sc3283 wrote:
usmc, do remember that RV AC units arent built like a home unit...running continuous as your wanting will definitely shorten the usable life of the unit


I wonder what full timers do?
TV = 15 Ram 3500 Dually 6.7 / CC-LB / CTD / Aisin / 3.42 / 4wd / EBrake
5er = 12 Keystone Avalanche 330RE
Toys = 08 Kawasaki Brutie Force 650i 4x4 ( x2 ๐Ÿ™‚ ) 14 Arctic Cat Wildcat 1000

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Bad question.. 110 at 15 amps may run one AC

110 at 20 amps will

110 at 30 amps is a 30 amp site in an RV park

110 twice at 50 amps each is a 50 amp site in an RV park.

Though 120 is better in all cases.

When I had a sticks and bricks I put an "RV PAD" next to the detached garage. it had 120 volt at 20 amps and I often ran either a space heater OR the air conditioner, no problem.. So long as I kept the wife out of the RV that is (She seemed to have a knack for tripping that dang breaker)
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
How about 24/7 365, 9-years? Yeah stuff is going to wear out. Balance the cost of repairs or replacement of the unit to ruffles style walls, furniture, and rotten fabric and mold saturated foam cushions. High humidity is no joke. I'm sitting in 89% R/H at the moment.

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am going on six years now running two RV Trailers in my back yard from 10 Gauge (10-3) 50-foot extension cords plugged into separate 120VAC 20AMP circuits in my garage.

My OFF-ROAD POPUP trailer is my working in place mods for camping off the power grids and the fifth wheel is the second home bedroom and added fridge for the house.

Kinda neat to have a place to getaway even at home to watch some Football and NCIS. The visiting grandkids have a ball using the trailer when they spend the nights...

Works for us...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

Bob_Landry
Explorer
Explorer
RJsfishin wrote:
sc3283 wrote:
usmc, do remember that RV AC units arent built like a home unit...running continuous as your wanting will definitely shorten the usable life of the unit and....

as inefficient as the roof AC units are due to the heat gain of these RVs...1 AC may not do a thing for humidity control

Where did that come from ??
That is what an A/C does, removes water from the air. That's all it does,.....that's what its designed to do.

And running a unit continuously, no cycling, it much better for the longevity of the unit.


That was one of those all to familiar "my cousin's uncle's brother-in law said" posts. Maybe the poster has never noticed the water dripping off the roof while the AC was running.
2011 Keystone Outback 277RL

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
sc3283 wrote:
usmc, do remember that RV AC units arent built like a home unit...running continuous as your wanting will definitely shorten the usable life of the unit and....

as inefficient as the roof AC units are due to the heat gain of these RVs...1 AC may not do a thing for humidity control

Where did that come from ??
That is what an A/C does, removes water from the air. That's all it does,.....that's what its designed to do.

And running a unit continuously, no cycling, it much better for the longevity of the unit.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

sc3283
Explorer
Explorer
usmc, do remember that RV AC units arent built like a home unit...running continuous as your wanting will definitely shorten the usable life of the unit and....

as inefficient as the roof AC units are due to the heat gain of these RVs...1 AC may not do a thing for humidity control
04 D-Max Crew Dually

96 Monaco Dynasty 36'

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
What I noticed with a small window A/C unit and high humidity is that at first, the temperature does not decrease at all. Nada. The humidity decreases. When it reaches 55% or so then the temperature starts to drop. For de-humidification I'll use the window unit plus a circulation fan, open closets, doors and drawers to let the A/C unit have at the moist air.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
We lived in our Flair class A for 5 months in the very hot summer of 06. and did it on a 100 ft 12 ga extension cord on a neighbor's 20 amp GFI breaker.
The A/C run nearly every day, and only twice did I have to ask the neighbor to reset the breaker because we forgot about the Microwave. The A/C always had a good (sounding) start up.
So, plug in, listen for the moaning/groaning of the A/C compressor start up, if it sounds good, (normal) it will be just fine. If it lags, or does not pickup speed normally, or the compressor kicks off, get a bigger cord !
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
DO it all the time here in my back yard plugged into a 15/20 AMP 120VAC garage receptacle.

Pick up a RV30A-15A "LONG" adapter from WALMART.
If you have to use an extension cord to reach your RV trailer then use a 10-gauge (10-3) HD contractor type 50-foot extension cord. You can get away with a HD 12 gauge (12-3) extension cord but always watch your AC VOLTS inside the trailer before turning on ONE air conditioner.

Everything in the trailer will work but you have to watch what high wattage things are on at the same time. having the air conditioner on and then fire up the high wattage microwave will always trip your garage breaker.

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
15 amp or 20 amp service
how big is the A/C unit ... btu's
anything else on , fridge, wh, converter?
probably need the converter to keep the battey charged
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

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1997 F53 Bounder 36s