AC Experts: How to Spoof or Disable Thermostat?

[greenrvgreen]

I want to run a roof AC continuously, no matter how cold the intake air gets. I know there is some sort of thermostat in the intake area that tells the AC when it has hit the "desired" temp. Can this be fooled in some way, or removed?

I don't care how inefficient the AC gets at lower temps, I want the compressor to run until I turn the unit off. Any ideas?

[Sam_Spade]

greenrvgreen wrote:
I may just try a heat bulb inside the AC ceiling intake!

YOu still aren't getting the most basic "fix", which is simply to get the unit to run somewhat longer AND cut the fan off when the compressor shuts off.

To be comfortable you only need the temp AND the humidity to drop a little bit. You don't need it to be 60 degrees and 40 percent.

For that you do three things:
Make sure that the outlets are not blowing on the the thermostat.
Turn down the stat a few degrees.
Put it on "auto" so that the fan won't run without the compressor and re-distribute the water.

[GordonThree]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

I plug in a small electric heater. That forces the air conditioner to run and act as a large dehumidifier.

I like this idea, less moving parts than a dehumidifier!

[greenrvgreen]

There's been a lot of good ideas here. Sorry I'm not crediting individually, but here's what I've learned so far:

--The AC MUST pull heat out of the air in order to pull water out. The lower the temp the tougher it is to pull heat out, never mind the electrical inefficiecy.

--The thermostat can be spoofed at the unit by jumpering.

--The thermostat can be spoofed at the wall with a tiny 12v bulb.

--The Coleman Power savers can cycle on and off completely, on Auto (doesn't solve the whole issue).

--I also learned that P Tuna is as willing to spend the park's electricity as I am, in pursuit of dry comfort. I may just try a heat bulb inside the AC ceiling intake!

Thanks to all!

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I plug in a small electric heater. That forces the air conditioner to run and act as a large dehumidifier.

[3_tons]

On the Mach 1 p.s. Set the mode button to AU, and the comp and fan will cycle on and off together.

[joebedford]

Put a 60w lamp under the thermostat.

[Sam_Spade]

greenrvgreen wrote:

The AC I'm asking about is the Coleman Mach 1 power saver 11k btu, with separate thermostat.

"power saver" units almost ALWAYS have a setting that turns off the fan along with the compressor. In fact, most ACs work that way.

Make very sure yours won't work that way already before you screw yourself with unnecessary modifications.

[filrupmark]

Tow your 5er to Texas and park it in a park with no trees. I promise it will run continuously. Our rear unit turned off yesterday evening about 5:00 and we were worried that it broke. LoL

[wa8yxm]

Depends on the A/C.. Carrier AIR v.. It is easy. Leave the remote in it's wall pocket and press the COOL button till it beeps and starts.. Job done

(To reset use remote to set to COOL and set a temp.. Or just press button again to turn off)

Other types. You need to ID the wires and install a switch.

[Chris_Bryant]

A Coleman with a wall thermostat should be able to cycle the blower with the compressor- set the fan to auto.

[joebedford]

GordonThree wrote:
So I bought the biggest dehumidifier I could find for cheap (90 pint) and it runs along with the AC. Makes the cabin nice and comfy quickly.

Probably generates enough heat to keep the AC running too.

[GordonThree]

greenrvgreen wrote:
I ask because I want to prevent the AC from blowing humidity back into the cabin when the compressor cycles. IMO humid air is uncomfortable no matter how cool it is. I would rather make the cabin too cold and then shut the AC off manually, and then restart the AC manually after the head pressure has bled off.

The AC I'm asking about is the Coleman Mach 1 power saver 11k btu, with separate thermostat. Gordon's info on jumpering the thermo wire is just the kind of idea I'm looking for. As an alternative, if there was some simple way to make the wall thermo think it was 80* when it was actually 60*, that would be even better.

Provided sufficient shore power, I run a dehumidifier along with my AC. My tiny trailer has a 13500 AC, which is too much cooling for such a small space. It cools the cabin so quickly, it doesn't leave time to draw out humidity. It's probably designed to cool the cabin in Arizona or Florida heat, which I don't run into very often.

So I bought the biggest dehumidifier I could find for cheap (90 pint) and it runs along with the AC. Makes the cabin nice and comfy quickly.

[time2roll]

Remount thermostat next to the water heater or in the sun. At least make sure all vents are pointed directly away from the thermostat.

Although afaik there is not outside air getting in. Just interior air is recirculated. people, cooking, bathing do add to the humidity. And when it is hot mine never cycles off anyway. Especially if the set point is very low.

The sensor in the intake is a freeze sensor and will only defeat your plan if disconnected. In fact you should make sure it is mounted up directly on or in the evaporator for best function. If your evaporator freezes you will not have cooling or humidity control. Maybe this is partly your issue.

Also check the inside plenum divider is well sealed between air in and air out. Remove all the interior trim to check this and the freeze sensor.

[greenrvgreen]

I ask because I want to prevent the AC from blowing humidity back into the cabin when the compressor cycles. IMO humid air is uncomfortable no matter how cool it is. I would rather make the cabin too cold and then shut the AC off manually, and then restart the AC manually after the head pressure has bled off.

The AC I'm asking about is the Coleman Mach 1 power saver 11k btu, with separate thermostat. Gordon's info on jumpering the thermo wire is just the kind of idea I'm looking for. As an alternative, if there was some simple way to make the wall thermo think it was 80* when it was actually 60*, that would be even better.