AC overload

[Beisek]

My daughter has a 2004 fifth wheel. We had a 15000 commercial domestic AC put in. Was told it will freeze her out. It's connected to ceiling assembly. Blows cold but can't run on anything higher then low or the breaker trips. It's a 30 amp rv. Anything we can do to get it to handle this unit. We turn everything off and still only can run in low.

[dougrainer]

The OP stated that on LO cool the breaker did not trip. Hi cool it would. That is only an increase of 1.5 amps from Lo Cool. The TOTAL Amp draw of his Dometic Commercial unit is only 14.5 amps(Hi Cool) at 95 degrees. The OP has other things wrong with his 120 amp draw in the RV. The Commercial units just have rubber dampners to prevent vibration from ruining the AC. They are mainly used in Tractor Trailer trucks NOT RV's. They were sold a bill of goods if they thought a Commercial grade was a BETTER cooling AC. NOT SO. 15k is 15k BTU's. Doug

[cekkk]

2oldman wrote:
A toad is not a TV.

Thanks. I thought I was missing something.

[2oldman]

A toad is not a TV.

[time2roll]

What breaker trips?

20 amp A/C branch circuit
30 amp RV main breaker
Or the supply pedestal?

Post a running voltage reading in the RV would also help.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Mister TOADs Wild Ride?

That's why I prefer to use the phrase TOAD.

Dis be the age of da BUZZWORD according to Jimmy Roy Ray Bob of Tater Holler

[cekkk]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Etiquette Police Here. 🙂

Actually a polite almost begging request...

AC for electricity

A/C For air conditioner

For thread titles.

Stop throwing tomatoes dammit!

And while you're at it, can you fix TV and TV???

[j-d]

I met an RV'er who said he wished his Fifth Wheel's Water Heater offered Electric (120-Volts-AC Power) heating and not just the LP he'd been using.

It was a Suburban brand water heater model SW6DE. "D" means it has electronic ignition called Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) so it can be turned on from inside the coach with a simple switch.

"E" means it also can also heat water with 120-Volt-AC power. I turned the little switch on the heater itself ON and he got hot water without using LPG.

My point here is, that he had NO switch inside the RV. If your daughter has NO switch for 120 VAC inside the coach, only the switch for LP operation, it's possible there is in fact a water heater running off her shore tie power.

The switch is nearly hidden. Open the cover, if it's Suburban, crouch to the level of the cover hinge, and look in the lower left section of the heater. If the Switch is UP (ON), push it down to OFF.

Our coach is a Class C, but it's 30-Amp, and will NOT run A/C and Electric Water Heat in Summer. I'm a little surprised that the A/C Blower Fan is what's making the difference, but do check and make sure the water heater isn't on AC Power.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Etiquette Police Here. 🙂

Actually a polite almost begging request...

AC for electricity

A/C For air conditioner

For thread titles.

Stop throwing tomatoes dammit!

[1492]

Moved from Forum Technical Support

[BB_TX]

Dometic commercial grade A/C

[2oldman]

cekkk wrote:
I'm pretty sure the word is Dometic.

I was thinking that too but 'commercial domestic' sounds more like a home unit.

[cekkk]

2oldman wrote:

Beisek wrote:
We had a 15000 commercial domestic AC put in..

What exactly is that?

I'm pretty sure the word is Dometic. It's a brand name of a trailer air conditioner. 15,000 refers to Btus. Most units are 13,500 or 15,000 Btus.

[2oldman]

Beisek wrote:
We had a 15000 commercial domestic AC put in..

What exactly is that?

[BB_TX]

To be clear, is it the 30 amp breaker at the post tripping? Or the 30 amp main breaker in the trailer tripping? Or the 20 amp A/C breaker in the trailer tripping?

I had the 20 amp breaker for my A/C start tripping for no obvious reason. Replaced the breaker with a new 20 amp breaker and no more tripping.