Advice on deep cycle setup?

[JohnnyGood]

Hello,

I have a Safari van that I've converted into a camper.

I replaced the starting battery with a Duracell Ultra Dual Purpose (Starting/Cycling) Battery that cost $105 (got it at batteries plus).

I'm running a multi-cooker (700 watts) with a 600 watt inverter (yes, I realize that there's a difference, but it seems to work fine (?).

I want to get another deep cycle house battery, as it seems to max out the battery after 5 minutes of use (the inverter starts beeping).

Does anyone have any suggestions on batteries to get, or how to rig this up? I'm a contractor and have some experience with electricity, but I don't understand all the ins and outs of a deep cycle power setup / battery power etc.'

I also want to get a heater installed for minimal use: http://www.my12voltstore.com/DC_Thermal_SA12_2000_12_Volt_Turbo_DC_Heater_p/sa12-2000.htm

Any tips welcome!

L

[pianotuna]

Hi,
.
I'd be tempted to use sealing wax on the poppped up valves.

[JohnnyGood]

Hi All,

(Mex) Any suggestions/further guidance on how to troubleshoot those flaps on top?

L

[JohnnyGood]

Hi Everyone,

I'm back after a vacation (of doing other work).

Tinkered a bit with the battery today. I want to get those flaps handled.

Mex - I've tried the goop dollop twice (third time's the charm) - and I'm not quite sure if I understand what I'm supposed to do with it.

(I think I'm creating a tension thread over the top of the flap, or between the flap and the body of the battery?).

You can see in the pictures that the flaps pop up ever so slightly - like a millimeter? I'm sure it's enough to let air seep in/out.

You can also see in the pictures the damage from dropping it off the bumper (18" I think). Mostly plastic corners on top, and one small divot out of the positive pole top nut.

I'm tempted to call lifeline, and/or just duct tape the flaps shut - and I'm sure the latter isn't the best idea. Or goop the gaps?

Hoping Mex/others can enlighten me.

Otherwise - it's been working fine, panels are working fine. I still have the fuses to install, wiring to cleanup, and the panel rack to finish.

(Alternator is the final big project - I'll warm up with the others at least).

Thanks all.

L

[JohnnyGood]

azrving wrote:

Work good, no work bad. Get while the gittin is good. And when it comes to OT I always told them "If you're payin I'm stayin". 🙂

Indeed - work is good. Thank you Sir. 🙂

L

[azrving]

JohnnyGood wrote:
Hi All,

I've been buried under work recently. This week and next I'm finishing up and will get back to this.

L

Work good, no work bad. Get while the gittin is good. And when it comes to OT I always told them "If you're payin I'm stayin". 🙂

[JohnnyGood]

Hi All,

I've been buried under work recently. This week and next I'm finishing up and will get back to this.

L

[JohnnyGood]

General update:

I got hired for a big job this week, so I'm hoping to get to improvements (major:alternator swap) next week.

Y'all have been an amazing resource. Thank you.

L

[JohnnyGood]

landyacht318 wrote:

Ventilation, and tight fitting reflectix window shades on the sunny side.

I can keep my van as cool or cooler than ambient temps until late afternoon with adjustable speed computer fans. Mostly 120MM fans but I do have one 180MM fan.

Computer fans vary widely in air moved for amps consumed and noise made so do not just think any old computer fan is a good match for your desires.

My favorite fans are the silverstone fm121, as it is powerful and comes with a speed control. 110cfm max and 0.4 amps, down to 0.08a and 32CFM.

The silverstone fm181 is ~165CFM for 0.27 amps, and on low is 65cfm and 0.9 amps and basically silent at that speed.

The Silverstone AP182 is much more powerful at 1.3 amps, but it does not like battery charging voltages at max speed. Lowest speed is 0.05 amps.

The other fans I like best are 3000 rpm Noctua industrial versions of the NF-f12. These on highest speed, move the same CFM as the Silverstonefm181 , for 25% less amperage consumed, and have twice the static pressure rating, meaning it can fight restriction better.

Noctua has more recently come out with a speed controller which is plug and play with PWM fans and can handle more than one fan.

Since the solar should have the battery in absorption by 11Am anyway, there is excess solar wattage available to run fans and keep the interior cooler.


I have 3 intake fans in a conversion van window slider, in a shroud for 100% air displcement. I rarely slide the window all the way open and use all 3 fans. My roof has 2 inline counter rotating 120M exhaust fans pushing through a 4 inch aperture through mushroom vent.

The silverstone fm121 appreciates the counter rotating arctic cool f12 fan, airflow increases dramatically and noise lessens when the f12 fan is fired up. I went to install a noctua fan in place of the silverstone and it did NOT appreciate the counter rotating feeder fan.

Bascally if all my fans are on the highest speed, the complete volume of air inside my an is exchanged in under 2 minutes, and it never has a chance to start baking inside.

A fantastik fan on the roof is also a great way to go, as long as tere is an entry for fresh air somewhere below.

Keeping your van interior cooler will keep your internal battery muh happier too. Don't forget to secure that battery properly. So many people seem to rely on the battery weight to keep it in place. Imagine what happens in a rollover. Its like a 72LB piece of shrapnel in a hand grenade.

Wow - sounds awesome. Have you posted any pictures anywhere?

Perhaps a single-fan solution could improve my situation ... I could install a vent in the roof if needed ... my sunshades are decent but could also probably be improved.

Especially with the summer coming up, this is an important issue.

Thanks for all the detail etc. - I appreciate it.

Yours,

L

[landyacht318]

JohnnyGood wrote:
I don't like having a hot van - and I feel bad for my van when it gets cooked in the sun ... at least the panels shade a good amount of the top ... suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

L

Ventilation, and tight fitting reflectix window shades on the sunny side.

I can keep my van as cool or cooler than ambient temps until late afternoon with adjustable speed computer fans. Mostly 120MM fans but I do have one 180MM fan.

Computer fans vary widely in air moved for amps consumed and noise made so do not just think any old computer fan is a good match for your desires.

My favorite fans are the silverstone fm121, as it is powerful and comes with a speed control. 110cfm max and 0.4 amps, down to 0.08a and 32CFM.

The silverstone fm181 is ~165CFM for 0.27 amps, and on low is 65cfm and 0.9 amps and basically silent at that speed.

The Silverstone AP182 is much more powerful at 1.3 amps, but it does not like battery charging voltages at max speed. Lowest speed is 0.05 amps.

The other fans I like best are 3000 rpm Noctua industrial versions of the NF-f12. These on highest speed, move the same CFM as the Silverstonefm181 , for 25% less amperage consumed, and have twice the static pressure rating, meaning it can fight restriction better.

Noctua has more recently come out with a speed controller which is plug and play with PWM fans and can handle more than one fan.

Since the solar should have the battery in absorption by 11Am anyway, there is excess solar wattage available to run fans and keep the interior cooler.


I have 3 intake fans in a conversion van window slider, in a shroud for 100% air displcement. I rarely slide the window all the way open and use all 3 fans. My roof has 2 inline counter rotating 120M exhaust fans pushing through a 4 inch aperture through mushroom vent.

The silverstone fm121 appreciates the counter rotating arctic cool f12 fan, airflow increases dramatically and noise lessens when the f12 fan is fired up. I went to install a noctua fan in place of the silverstone and it did NOT appreciate the counter rotating feeder fan.

Bascally if all my fans are on the highest speed, the complete volume of air inside my an is exchanged in under 2 minutes, and it never has a chance to start baking inside.

A fantastik fan on the roof is also a great way to go, as long as tere is an entry for fresh air somewhere below.

Keeping your van interior cooler will keep your internal battery muh happier too. Don't forget to secure that battery properly. So many people seem to rely on the battery weight to keep it in place. Imagine what happens in a rollover. Its like a 72LB piece of shrapnel in a hand grenade.

[JohnnyGood]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Dance Or relax, and read the instructions

🙂

L

[JohnnyGood]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

An AGM approaches fully charged when charging amperage drops to about 3/4 to 1/2 of an amp.

Yes dance on the needles.

Thank you Sir.

L

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Dance Or relax, and read the instructions

[pianotuna]

Hi,

An AGM of the size you have approaches fully charged when charging amperage drops to about 3/4 to 1/2 of an amp.

Yes dance on the needles.

JohnnyGood wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Johnny,

Do the capacity test once you have the battery fully recharged. Then adjust the settings to "fit" the numbers.

You do want to "dance on the needles", at least initially.

Hi Don,

Thanks for the suggestions. How do I know when I have it fully recharged?

By "dance on the needles" - do you mean watch the numbers closely?

L

[JohnnyGood]

Hi All,

I did not attempt the alternator swap this morning. I will try to get it in asap - I have a major project at work going on right now.

Will tweak the controller and keep y'all posted.

Also - I got goop and made my hershey kiss tonight. Plan to follow Mex's recipe tomorrow.

There has been plenty of sun. Sometimes I park in the shade still - it's quite a conflict. I don't like having a hot van - and I feel bad for my van when it gets cooked in the sun ... at least the panels shade a good amount of the top ... suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

L

[JohnnyGood]

full_mosey wrote:
L;

Some controllers have a feature to control overnight lighting and have separate LOAD terminals. In this context, this amounts to a low Voltage disconnect(over-discharge) that shuts the lighting/load off to conserve the battery.

I can't see any use for the load controls.

HTH;
John

Thanks John. I have no use for the load terminals etc. that I know of.

Yours,

L