Jan-18-2023 09:15 AM
Jan-26-2023 09:26 AM
Fisherguy wrote:waexplorer wrote:
Ok Fisherguy, from an earlier post I saw you have volt/amp guage. If you can run your batteries down 30-50% SOC then you can monitor recharge amps and volts. IF your charger is charging at 14.4-14.6 volts with 50-60 amps, more than likely that's a lithium profile. IF your readings are more like 13.6-13.8 with lower amps, that's a FLA curve. Some Flooded curves will start over 14 volts and drop after an hour or so. Lithium will hold over 14 volts for as long as it takes to recover SOC. Depending on how many amp hours it needs to put back in the batteries. Most lithium battery makers use prismatic cells @3.2 volts. 3.2x4=12.8 volts. MAX charge per cell is 3.65 and 3.65x4=14.6. Lithium charge curves stay flat for most of the charge cycly then ramp up voltage sharply at the end. This is not charging voltage, this is state of charge voltage. The BMS is should be a 50 or 100 amp which is what charge/discharge current you can run through it. I wouldn't replace anything until you have an idea of your WFCO charge curves/amps etc. Run through a few charge/discharge cycles and see if you actually need more than what's there. And you can also do this using the Honda generator as well. Also as the batteries get closer to 100% SOC the charging amps will drop. Aso, the batteries BMS will stop the charge cycle when the batteries are full and cell balancing will begin. Lithium battery cells don't like too much variation between cells.
Thanks.
Plugged it in with batteries at 46%, got 27.5 amps at 13.6 volts.
I've since heard back from WFCO who told me the previous owner didn't install the 12V circuit board that has the 'lithium switch' on it so I won't get 14.6V. They offered to sell me the DC board.
Jan-26-2023 08:16 AM
Jan-26-2023 07:50 AM
waexplorer wrote:
Ok Fisherguy, from an earlier post I saw you have volt/amp guage. If you can run your batteries down 30-50% SOC then you can monitor recharge amps and volts. IF your charger is charging at 14.4-14.6 volts with 50-60 amps, more than likely that's a lithium profile. IF your readings are more like 13.6-13.8 with lower amps, that's a FLA curve. Some Flooded curves will start over 14 volts and drop after an hour or so. Lithium will hold over 14 volts for as long as it takes to recover SOC. Depending on how many amp hours it needs to put back in the batteries. Most lithium battery makers use prismatic cells @3.2 volts. 3.2x4=12.8 volts. MAX charge per cell is 3.65 and 3.65x4=14.6. Lithium charge curves stay flat for most of the charge cycly then ramp up voltage sharply at the end. This is not charging voltage, this is state of charge voltage. The BMS is should be a 50 or 100 amp which is what charge/discharge current you can run through it. I wouldn't replace anything until you have an idea of your WFCO charge curves/amps etc. Run through a few charge/discharge cycles and see if you actually need more than what's there. And you can also do this using the Honda generator as well. Also as the batteries get closer to 100% SOC the charging amps will drop. Aso, the batteries BMS will stop the charge cycle when the batteries are full and cell balancing will begin. Lithium battery cells don't like too much variation between cells.
Jan-26-2023 06:08 AM
waexplorer wrote:Fisherguy wrote:Grit dog wrote:Boon Docker wrote:
..
Apologies, I quoted you but wasn’t questioning your response.
It was in reference to the OP who is planning to idk, stack converters.
And furthermore he doesn’t even know if his current converter is doing the job or not.
Stack converters?
We've had this trailer a whole 2 weeks and it's the middle of winter here so excuse me if I don't have any 'real world' experience with it yet and am looking for advice!
I said I'd probly leave the WFCO in place as a back up on it's own breaker and add another charger up closer to the batteries.
Is that OK with you?
Ok Fisherguy, from an earlier post I saw you have volt/amp guage. If you can run your batteries down 30-50% SOC then you can monitor recharge amps and volts. IF your charger is charging at 14.4-14.6 volts with 50-60 amps, more than likely that's a lithium profile. IF your readings are more like 13.6-13.8 with lower amps, that's a FLA curve. Some Flooded curves will start over 14 volts and drop after an hour or so. Lithium will hold over 14 volts for as long as it takes to recover SOC. Depending on how many amp hours it needs to put back in the batteries. Most lithium battery makers use prismatic cells @3.2 volts. 3.2x4=12.8 volts. MAX charge per cell is 3.65 and 3.65x4=14.6. Lithium charge curves stay flat for most of the charge cycly then ramp up voltage sharply at the end. This is not charging voltage, this is state of charge voltage. The BMS is should be a 50 or 100 amp which is what charge/discharge current you can run through it. I wouldn't replace anything until you have an idea of your WFCO charge curves/amps etc. Run through a few charge/discharge cycles and see if you actually need more than what's there. And you can also do this using the Honda generator as well. Also as the batteries get closer to 100% SOC the charging amps will drop. Aso, the batteries BMS will stop the charge cycle when the batteries are full and cell balancing will begin. Lithium battery cells don't like too much variation between cells.
Jan-26-2023 05:12 AM
theoldwizard1 wrote:
Buy a GOOD quality inverter/charger/automatic transfer switch. Remove the converter and wire the DC fuse panel directly to the house battery bank (using a large fuse close the the battery bank).
Wire the shore power cable directly to the inlet of the inverter. Wire the outlet of the inverter to your AC breaker panel.
DONE !
Jan-26-2023 04:45 AM
Fisherguy wrote:Grit dog wrote:Boon Docker wrote:
..
Apologies, I quoted you but wasn’t questioning your response.
It was in reference to the OP who is planning to idk, stack converters.
And furthermore he doesn’t even know if his current converter is doing the job or not.
Stack converters?
We've had this trailer a whole 2 weeks and it's the middle of winter here so excuse me if I don't have any 'real world' experience with it yet and am looking for advice!
I said I'd probly leave the WFCO in place as a back up on it's own breaker and add another charger up closer to the batteries.
Is that OK with you?
Jan-25-2023 05:56 PM
theoldwizard1 wrote:
Buy a GOOD quality inverter/charger/automatic transfer switch. Remove the converter and wire the DC fuse panel directly to the house battery bank (using a large fuse close the the battery bank).
Wire the shore power cable directly to the inlet of the inverter. Wire the outlet of the inverter to your AC breaker panel.
DONE !
Jan-25-2023 04:38 PM
theoldwizard1 wrote:
Buy a GOOD quality inverter/charger/automatic transfer switch. Remove the converter and wire the DC fuse panel directly to the house battery bank (using a large fuse close the the battery bank).
Wire the shore power cable directly to the inlet of the inverter. Wire the outlet of the inverter to your AC breaker panel.
DONE !
Jan-25-2023 04:37 PM
Grit dog wrote:Boon Docker wrote:
..
Apologies, I quoted you but wasn’t questioning your response.
It was in reference to the OP who is planning to idk, stack converters.
And furthermore he doesn’t even know if his current converter is doing the job or not.
Jan-25-2023 04:01 PM
Jan-25-2023 02:27 PM
Boon Docker wrote:
..
Jan-25-2023 02:05 PM
Jan-25-2023 02:02 PM
Grit dog wrote:Boon Docker wrote:
Good to hear, saves you some cash.
Thanks for the update.
??
Not if he’s just double stacking a bigger better converter. Literally no point in keepin the original converter if piggy backing another converter.
Now a low buck charger (which don’t really exist for a good higer amp LFP charger) could save a buck and be a decent stop gap. But why?
One and done it replace the WFCo with a PD and walk away. Also less work and hassle than adding additional circuits.
Or did I misread something ?
Jan-25-2023 11:02 AM
Jan-25-2023 09:53 AM
Boon Docker wrote:
Good to hear, saves you some cash.
Thanks for the update.