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Atwood heater problem

69gp
Explorer
Explorer
hi I have an Atwood heater that I am having trouble with. The heater will not stay running. Got to dark to look into it tonight but just looking for any ideas as to what it may be.

When I turn the switch on the water heater fires up and runs for about 5 seconds before shutting down. I did check the thermostats by disconnecting and bypassing them. Had no effect. I think the control board is ok because I do get a spark to light the unit.

Any clues?
Steve B
4100 lb 8.872@ 156 MPH naturally aspirated
Square peg in a round hole is the way to go
6 REPLIES 6

69gp
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:
That model uses the spark electrode for return path of flame signal (Flame generates milliamp signal thru rectification---which proves flame is lit)

No return signal circuit board shuts down DC to gas valve so raw fuel does not accumulate in combustion chamber

Spark electrode MUST be engulfed in flame when it lights off
Spark electrode must be free of soot/carbon build up.....clean with emery cloth
Spark electrode high voltage wire connection must be clean/tight
Spark electrode ceramic insulator can not be cracked....ground tracking
Spark electrode assembly screw must be clean/tight ------ground source for rod
Spark electrode gap 1/8"



Thanks for the Help, Had to replace the electrode. Brought the control board down to my local RV supply store and they did check it out and found that it was working properly. The electrode did look good, gave it a quick cleaning with some fine emery cloth porcelain was still shinny with no cracks in it. guess looks can be deceiving. As soon as I installed the new one and made a few adjustments it fired right up.
Steve B
4100 lb 8.872@ 156 MPH naturally aspirated
Square peg in a round hole is the way to go

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
Old Biscuit, You are incredible, Thank You
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
That model uses the spark electrode for return path of flame signal (Flame generates milliamp signal thru rectification---which proves flame is lit)

No return signal circuit board shuts down DC to gas valve so raw fuel does not accumulate in combustion chamber

Spark electrode MUST be engulfed in flame when it lights off
Spark electrode must be free of soot/carbon build up.....clean with emery cloth
Spark electrode high voltage wire connection must be clean/tight
Spark electrode ceramic insulator can not be cracked....ground tracking
Spark electrode assembly screw must be clean/tight ------ground source for rod
Spark electrode gap 1/8"
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

69gp
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:
First off.....
Atwood made a lot of different models
Some gas only....pilot manual light
Some gas only...pilot with reigntor
Some gas only....electronic ignition
Some gas /electic with separate controls
Some gs/electric combined controls \\

Etc ETc

Which one do YOU have ??? What year/model is it??

Flame proving is most likely the issue. Flame lights and must prove it lit.
Means/Methods vary


its a 1999 model #G6A-8E with electronic ignition
Steve B
4100 lb 8.872@ 156 MPH naturally aspirated
Square peg in a round hole is the way to go

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
First off.....
Atwood made a lot of different models
Some gas only....pilot manual light
Some gas only...pilot with reigntor
Some gas only....electronic ignition
Some gas /electic with separate controls
Some gs/electric combined controls \\

Etc ETc

Which one do YOU have ??? What year/model is it??

Flame proving is most likely the issue. Flame lights and must prove it lit.
Means/Methods vary
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
With our 1991 we got last year, the trouble was the little vent hole that has its own little cover in the outside door to the water heater was closed too tight. Not enough air. Opening that little cover making the vent hole bigger solved the problem. Had to get tough with it and break it open, because it was jammed shut.

Test for that by leaving the outside door hanging open. If it all works then, and not when it is closed, then it is that vent hole.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.