Atwood refridgerator power problem

[Travelin2]

This morning I went out and started my 2014 Atwood 0801 refrigerator on AC. I just set it on auto and went outside and was tinkering about for awhile. Later I unplugged the AC cord to start the fridge on gas. I expected to find that the auto function had switched over to gas operation but the fridge was dark on the control panel on the front. The inside lights were off also. Pushing the power button on the panel between the freezer and fridge did nothing. The battery switch is on and there is 12v to the red/black wire junction block. I removed the cover of the control module and found continuity across all three fuses and 12v at the two 3amp fuses. I am hoping someone knows where there is a secret reset miracle button or something. Anybody got an idea what gives here?

[Travelin2]

Well, I found the problem. I read the troubleshooting section of the manual and it explains what each button does. One sentence describes that the click of the power button on the front of the control panel sends a signal to a switch built into the back of the power circuit board on the back of the fridge which in turn sends power to the control functions and the door switch/light. I had purchased the rear PCB for a spare so I decided to change it out. When I removed the old one it was obvious where the problem was. The picture pretty well tells the story. Fridge is working fine on gas and AC. Thanks for all the help fellas.

[Travelin2]

Well, I have had some things to deal with so I am sorry for dropping out on this conversation. I am back at this fridge problem and I have DC power on all 5 of the pins at the back of the eyebrow control board on the front of the fridge. The panel however will not light up. The only thing I can figure is that circuit board is shot. It is Atwood part #14003. I can't find one or anyone to refurbish this one so I guess I am out of luck getting this thing to run unless someone here knows a source that may have one.

[Travelin2]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Travelin2 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Travelin2 wrote:
Thanks for that O-B, The door switch does work but no power to it. I guess I will open up that top panel and see if I can find where the 12v stops. Maybe there is a little fuse in there??? The pins going to it are hot on the power board on the back of the fridge so something must be amiss in that interior panel.

Light/door switch get power thru 'other' connector on board

Display panel get it from top connector


2 separate connectors......2 separate issues

BOTH lack of DC

I just came back in from the RV and yes it is plugged in to 120AC.

I have good DC voltage at both of those connectors. The wires from those connectors go into the back of the fridge through one grommet.

I removed the wire harness from the display board on the front of the unit and there is no power. I am going to check the parts blowup to see if I can figure out where all the wires go after they enter the back because there is only one six wire connector on the back of the display panel.

Still have no lights inside and no reaction when the power button is pushed with the RV plugged in to 120 AC and battery switch on. Both voltages are good.

You haven't answered what happens if you plug back into 120V AC

Top 6 pin connector......5 pins used
Wires go to another connector on display panel circuit board


Bottom 6 pin.....wires (2 each +/-) go to each component individually (Divider heater, Door Switch, Interior Light)


Sounds like broken wire harness/wiring going thru that common grommet.
Wires hot at lower circuit board...........not hot at display connector---broken wire harness (IF shorted out..3A fuse would BLOW)

Interior light...have you tested connections?
Is light burnt out?

Hi Old-Biscuit...I had lots of irons in the fire today and didn't get to play with the RV. I did not get to testing the light. I will pop out the bulb and see if the switch is hot. I did remove the connector from the back of the "eyebrow" board in front and not one of the wires showed power. I just can't see all the wires breaking at the same time. Also, something that was a little odd was on each wire at that top connector there was minimal readings like--- .023volts---.113volts and such. None were zero. Let me say though the little multimeter I was using was made in China.

Would you tell me what the "divider heater" is that is powered by the lower connector?

I did test the AC heater yesterday and it shows 48.9 ohms so I guess that should heat if I can get this lost power situation figured out.
I do want to thank you for giving this some thought and some of your time.

I just had a thought. I tested the pins coming out of the power board and they have power but after plugging the connector back on, I never pierced the insulation on the wires near the connector to see if that connector is doing it's job. It may be a mismanufactured connector. Seems like a long shot though.

[Travelin2]

Well, Trailrider you sure know how to make a guys day.:) That was not a fun half hour.

I wonder if there is a favorite replacement model by the folks that have cut their losses and went back to the tried and true?

I didn't get a chance to tinker on it today. I'm still puzzled about the wire harness not conveying DC to the front board. There must be a junction box between the back and front boards.

[Old-Biscuit]

Travelin2 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Travelin2 wrote:
Thanks for that O-B, The door switch does work but no power to it. I guess I will open up that top panel and see if I can find where the 12v stops. Maybe there is a little fuse in there??? The pins going to it are hot on the power board on the back of the fridge so something must be amiss in that interior panel.

Light/door switch get power thru 'other' connector on board

Display panel get it from top connector


2 separate connectors......2 separate issues

BOTH lack of DC

I just came back in from the RV and yes it is plugged in to 120AC.

I have good DC voltage at both of those connectors. The wires from those connectors go into the back of the fridge through one grommet.

I removed the wire harness from the display board on the front of the unit and there is no power. I am going to check the parts blowup to see if I can figure out where all the wires go after they enter the back because there is only one six wire connector on the back of the display panel.

Still have no lights inside and no reaction when the power button is pushed with the RV plugged in to 120 AC and battery switch on. Both voltages are good.

You haven't answered what happens if you plug back into 120V AC

Top 6 pin connector......5 pins used
Wires go to another connector on display panel circuit board


Bottom 6 pin.....wires (2 each +/-) go to each component individually (Divider heater, Door Switch, Interior Light)


Sounds like broken wire harness/wiring going thru that common grommet.
Wires hot at lower circuit board...........not hot at display connector---broken wire harness (IF shorted out..3A fuse would BLOW)

Interior light...have you tested connections?
Is light burnt out?

[trailrider]

Travelin2 wrote:
Thanks for the info Old-Biscuit....I had no idea that model had been discontinued already. Must be a pile of junk. Guess I should have done a little research.

In the morning I will check out some of the things you brought up. Thanks

I found the schematic for it that you were referring to so I should be able to find out why DC is not on the front panel.

Junk, yes. Read this thread:

https://www.granddesignowners.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-1823.html

Horrible design. When the heating element burns out the fridge just stops working with no alert and no switching to gas. There goes your food if you don't catch it in time.

[Travelin2]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Travelin2 wrote:
Thanks for that O-B, The door switch does work but no power to it. I guess I will open up that top panel and see if I can find where the 12v stops. Maybe there is a little fuse in there??? The pins going to it are hot on the power board on the back of the fridge so something must be amiss in that interior panel.

Light/door switch get power thru 'other' connector on board

Display panel get it from top connector


2 separate connectors......2 separate issues

BOTH lack of DC

I just came back in from the RV and yes it is plugged in to 120AC.

I have good DC voltage at both of those connectors. The wires from those connectors go into the back of the fridge through one grommet.

I removed the wire harness from the display board on the front of the unit and there is no power. I am going to check the parts blowup to see if I can figure out where all the wires go after they enter the back because there is only one six wire connector on the back of the display panel.

Still have no lights inside and no reaction when the power button is pushed with the RV plugged in to 120 AC and battery switch on. Both voltages are good.

You haven't answered what happens if you plug back into 120V AC

[Travelin2]

wa8yxm wrote:
You said you had CONTINUNITY across all fuses..

DO YOU HAVE VOLTAGE.. You have described dead/disconnected batteries rather well.

Yes, the voltages are good...13.3 at the DC fuse, both ends and 120AC at the AC fuse holder, again at both ends of the holder.

[Old-Biscuit]

Travelin2 wrote:
Thanks for that O-B, The door switch does work but no power to it. I guess I will open up that top panel and see if I can find where the 12v stops. Maybe there is a little fuse in there??? The pins going to it are hot on the power board on the back of the fridge so something must be amiss in that interior panel.

Light/door switch get power thru 'other' connector on board

Display panel get it from top connector


2 separate connectors......2 separate issues

BOTH lack of DC

You haven't answered what happens if you plug back into 120V AC

[wa8yxm]

You said you had CONTINUNITY across all fuses..

DO YOU HAVE VOLTAGE.. You have described dead/disconnected batteries rather well.

[Travelin2]

Thanks for that O-B, The door switch does work but no power to it. I guess I will open up that top panel and see if I can find where the 12v stops. Maybe there is a little fuse in there??? The pins going to it are hot on the power board on the back of the fridge so something must be amiss in that interior panel.

[Old-Biscuit]

Couldn't open your 'link' as it is NOT on a public board

Anyway....
6 Pin connector for 'control panel' is source for power to display panel
(only 5 pins used)

Source for interior light comes from the OTHER 6 pin connector
All 6 pins used----2 for each: Divider Heater, Door Switch, Interior Light & Thermistor

(Is door switch working?????)





Display panel can be removed and it will have a 6 pin connector also


Atwood HE Service Manual


Unfortunately .....parts are very hard to find/scarce OR no longer in production

Good luck!

[Travelin2]

Well Old-Biscuit, I finally got back to this project and find 12v at the appropriate fuse holder and am getting 13+ volts on both ends of the holder not the fuse body. Also when I unplug the harness connector labeled "Control Panel" in the upper left corner of the circuit board I find good DC at all of the pins. I assume that is the power to wake up the control panel on the front of the fridge which still sits dark. No light in the food compartment and pushing the power button gets no reaction. I am suspicious that there is something amiss in that panel. I have not found a schematic for that board. Any idea if I would let the "smoke" out if I pulled that cover?

Have a look at this tech sheet and the last drawing shows the real layout of the components on my circuit board.
file:///C:/Users/Owner/OneDrive/Pictures/atwood%200801%20reefer.pdf

[Old-Biscuit]

ScottG wrote:
As I understand it, they wern't bad, they were bought out by the competition.

Dometic acquired Atwood back in late 2014

Atwood Helium fridge production ended in 2016