Are you and your friend 100% sure fire certain it's this Valve? There are three parts involved in lighting the oven. I may not have it exact, but here's how I see it and I believe I'm close:
1. A little Regulator (you can see it in the left front corner of the cooktop with the cover lifted) makes a final adjustment of the LPG pressure to the Oven Thermostat.
2. The Oven Thermostat (right front, behind the Knob) allows the Pilot to be Lit. A SENSING BULB allows the LPG to flow to the Pilot and keep it lit. Does it do that? Then you set the Knob to a Baking Temperature, say 350. It causes the Pilot to Flare Up. There's a delay in Main Burner Ignition because...
3. Oven Safety Valve ALSO has a SENSING BULB. When that bulb senses heat, the Safety Valve provides LPG to the Nain Burner.
The Sensing Bulbs in Both the Valves (2. and 3.) were made with Mercury. The EcoNazis have decreed that there be no more. New ovens designed differently. New parts won't retrofit old ovens, and we may also not have valves existing ovens.
The two Valves used to be about $100 each. I don't know about the Regulator. Maybe somebody here can provide testing instructions or a detailed testing manual. If you can determine which of three parts is causing the problem and get just the one, I'd say do it. But all three, if even available, get the cost on the way to a new oven.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB