Atwwod Water Heater Questions

[pcantin]

Hi there.

I have an Atwood water heater (DSI-6)in my class C. The problem is that I have no idea how to use it! I know that it runs on gas, but I can't tell if it runs on electricity as well. I have looked everywhere and can't find a model number.

In addition to the remote switch at the sink, there is an on/off button on the back of the heater where the wires go into the unit. What is that switch for? I am not sure of the procedure to get this unit running.

Any help on this would be appreciated.

[pcantin]

That manual certainly helps. I looked around and found a manual from Atwood, but it doesn't have all the information that the one you supplied does. That single switch on page 7 is what I have.

The power for the element has been taken from a near by outlet. This means that it is using the outlet fuse instead of its own circuit. This says to me that the power is on as soon as the RV is plugged into shore power. There is a place for another breaker on my inverter/converter, so I may look into connecting the heater to its own circuit. Again, this seems to all point to the heater being a replacement.

I just found my multimeter, so I should now be able to figure out the switches.

[enblethen]

Page seven gives two different switch styles. Some newer have a single switch while most earlier models have the dual switch.
Atwood manual

[pcantin]

The only switch that I can see (other than the switch on the back of the unit) is the DSI switch. The DSI switch is the only one with a light on it.

I can't see any other switch that is meant to control the element. To get to the switch on the back of the unit, I need to go under the sink and reach back to the back of the unit. I guess it automatically starts heating with the element once the power is plugged in.

I found a sticker in the cupboard that says the heater is gas only, so it is possible that the unit is a replacement (since it has an element in it). That may explain why there isn't a switch. I could easily put one in for inconvenience once I get it all sorted out. There isn't a breaker for it either.

I will check the continuity and voltage at the element to see what is going on.

Thanks again for the info. I will keep you posted.

[enblethen]

The switch at the back of the water heater is for maintenance. There should be a normal operational switch near the DSI switch.

[langbone]

The switch at the back of the tank is for the electric part of the heater.On means your running the electric element. Off is off. You should also have a circuit breaker for the electric side of the water heater at the main power panel. The remote switch on the inside is for propane usage. Turn it to on and the gas section should light if all is well. Sometimes these atwoods get cranky and don't want to light. Make sure all the contacts are clean, the spark gap is correct and that the flue is free from blockage. If you google troubleshooting atwood, you should get all the info you will ever need

[enblethen]

Both switches should have red lights. The 120 volt switch normally is lit when it is in the on position. The DSI switch and adjacent light should be on when igniting and then goes off. It will then come on if unit fails.(blows out)
Yes, you could check the elemnt for continuity after the thermostat. You can also carefully check for 120 volts AC on the top portion of the thermostat.

[pcantin]

One more question.

If I wanted to use the heater with the electricity, do I still need the switch with the red light on it to be on, or is that ONLY for propane operation.

Basically, do I need both switches to be on (the one at the sink and the one on the back of the unit) to use the electrical element?

[pcantin]

I was pretty sure, but wanted to be certain.

I took a look at the back, and there is an element behind there. Do I just use a continuity tester to see if the element is still ok?

Thanks.

[rrupert]

That would be in the "ON" position.

[pcantin]

I see where there used to be a tag on the outside (that most likely had the model number on it), but it is all ripped up. I will look again to see if there is a model number.

There is a switch on the sink that has a red light. I don't have any propane right now, but I will clean up the unit and then see if I can get it to light.

I can only assume that the electrical element (if there is indeed one there) is burnt out, as I know it has been plugged in and the switch was left on.

The switch on the back of the unit is a rocker style switch with "on" and "off" written on it. one side is flush with the bezel, while the other side sticks up. Is it on when the "on" side of the switch is pushed down? The attached (poorly-done) drawing shows this condition:



Thanks for the info.

[enblethen]

Model number should be on the frame around the outside access.
It sounds like it is a combination DSI and 120 volt.

[Wheel_Estate]

from your description... i think you have one that is supposed to run on gas AND electric. turn the switch at the outside in the door for the water heater OFF to turn off the electric element ( when you are not plugged in or when you are paying for electric) and turn on the remote switch ( does a little red light come on just above it? that indicates the auto light feature is there...and trying to light the pilot. of course you must have the gas on ....and abouve all... since you never ran this...make sure the tank is FULL of water. The best way i know to be SURE is to manually open the popit valve on the out side ( red circle ring around it ...with a lever) and watch out for water to come out.
if the electric feature does not work it may well be burnt out from being turned on with out water in the tank.
feel free to pm me for more info if this did not solve your problem