Battery charger upgrade and purpose of solinoid

[raztec]

I'm looking to upgrade my current, factory battery charger in my truck camper to something with a higher amperage.

As I understand it, the current charger converts AC to DC when I plug in and only trickle charges the battery at a couple amps. That can take days if not weeks to charge a 50% discharged battery. And the truck alternator charges it when the engine is running, but that too is a very low amps.

I'd like to upgrade to something faster for AC charging, but also for DC charging off my alternator if possible. Is there such a thing?

Also, can someone please explain what a solinoid is supposed to do? Apparently, my truck doesn't have one.

Thanks
Raz

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I am running 2/0 welding cable from the remote rectifier to my 8 L16's. From the Niehoff, three 4 gauge cables from the alternator stator studs to the remore rectifier. Get this, the remote rectifier consists of 3 positive and 3 negative 1,200 amp 1,625 PIV rectifiers. The anodized copper heatsink material (1/4" 12" X 16" plates would have cost me a fortune at today's copper prices. Top charging and checking those batteries is a pain of accessing but it has to be done. Rolls makes nice L-16's 🙂



Quicksilver started out looking like this...

[landyacht318]

My Friend has a 2013 ram powerwagon with what i think is a 180 amp rated alternator.

I made a portable powerpack containing an inverter and a pd9245 inside it.

I used 2awg, about 14 feet, One way from alternator to Lifeline GPL-31XT 125AH battery. About 12 feet of 2awg from lifeline(-) to engine battery (-) and through a very large Winch connector:



http://www.amazon.com/Superwinch-2236-commercial-terminals-capacity/dp/B000C7LYYM/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?i...



I depleted the battery to ~50% in my own rig.

I then hooked the Lifeline powerpack to the Ram powerwagon, started it, waited for the cold start high idle to mellow, then flipped the switch.

The 100 Amp Ammeter was pegged, and in the time it too me to get my Clamp on ammeter, amps had tapered to just under 100.

~5 minutes later amps had tapered to 86a. Alternator temp skyrocketed to 220F, battery voltage had risen to only 13.4v.

More RPM did not significantly add to Amperage at this point 3K rpm went back upto 92A. I believe the alternator has temperature protections as it never went over 221F on the hottest spot I could find with my IR temp gun.

I was impressed with how much current the single group 31 lifeline accepted, I was impressed how much current the alternator was able to make at idle speed.

The alternator was right on top of the engine, in full flow of the radiator fan. When the alternator first reached 220 F, the oil and coolant temps was still sub 155f.

When designing it, I was considering 1 awg. That winch connector can handle 1 awg. 2 awg maxed out the alternator so 1 awg would likely be even more overkill.

My winch connector mocks your 7 pin connector 🙂

[bigfootford]

Lifeline batteries for RV and Marine are the kind that you can really shove the current to them if you have the proper charger.
My 100ah lifeline is over 7 years old and it sees 60 amps when discharged down to 60%soc. and stays over 45amps for well over 45 min... I have used a Progressive Dynamics 9260 for about 10 years now... I do have 200watts of solar to charge when on the road.
I am running a total AH using my trimetric... Currently over 5000ah cycled since my lifeline was installed.

UPG, Universal AGM 100 ah batteries state right on the battery not to exceed 35 amps..

I tested one in real world testing and it died in less than 2 mos.. I was told that disregard the 35 amp thing, use your 60 amp charger and have at it.

http://upgi.com/Products/batteries.aspx?cat=12


Charge Method (Constant Voltage) Cycle Use (Repeating Use)
??????????????
Initial Current 33 A or smaller

Control Voltage 14.6 - 14.8 VFloat Use 13.6 - 13.8 VControl Voltage
Terminals


So I think buyer beware...

Everyone I know that has lifelines are happy campers...

Jim

[ggadwa]

Well I'm pleased to see I brought some great comments out of the woods...I took my quote "get this" out of a Hot Rod magazine article on AGM batteries, however. I have read in several other places that AGM's are sensitive to overcharging.

I have a 60 amp BoonDocker charger/converter and 280 watts of Solar with a temperature compensated Blue Sky 3000e Controller and I'm looking at running a pair of 4 gauge cables back to my AGM's from the Truck 200 amp alternator so really like hearing what you all think from experience and learned knowledge.

GARY

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Yep some house engineers will tell the management batteries under charge need to be oriented north pole positive south pole negative to be reversed when in the southern hemisphere.

Words a house engineer does not want to hear..

"Why are we paying you eighty thousand dollars a year. What is your product? So the product has to be Baffle Them With BS.

When I went the distance with Optima from Zihuatanejo the conversation could have been lifted from a Marx Bros comedy. The only person who REMOTELY knew what he was doing was the design engineer who they yanked from the dungeon. I queried him for a minute which satified me he was a genuine engineer. He conclusions after chatting 10 minutes 180 DEGREES CONTRADICTED THE OFFICIAL OPTIMA PROPAGANDA LINE. Fascinating. About the ten thousandth confirmarion I would not have lasted ten minutes eorking in a corporate TEAM environment. Application engineers strive with Herb Tarlick types to avoid the mind numbing possibility that their product is nothing more than a "me too" piece of merchandise.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Yep some house engineers will tell the management batteries under charge need to be oriented north pole positive south pole negative to be reversed when in the southern hemisphere.

Words a house engineer does not want to hear..

"Why are we paying you eighty thousand dollars a year. What is your product? So the product has to be Baffle Them With BS.

When I went the distance with Optima from Zihuatanejo the conversation could have been lifted from a Marx Bros comedy. The only person who REMOTELY knew what he was doing was the design engineer who they yanked from the dungeon. I queried him for a minute which satified me he was a genuine engineer. He conclusions after chatting 10 minutes 180 DEGREES CONTRADICTED THE OFFICIAL OPTIMA PROPAGANDA LINE. Fascinating. About the ten thousandth confirmarion I would not have lasted ten minutes eorking in a corporate TEAM environment. Application engineers strive with Herb Tarlick types to avoid the mind numbing possibility that their product is nothing more than a "me too" piece of merchandise.

[landyacht318]

Odyssey does NOT say to limit charging amps to 10 amps
They specifically say that their batteries require a 40% charge rate when deeply cycled.

http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/us-ody-tm-001_0411_000.pdf

40 amps applied for a single 100AH battery until 14.7v at 77f is reached and then hold 14.7v for 4 hours while amps taper to the sub 1 amp range.

10 amps. Phooey.

Lifeline recommends 20 amps minimum for a 100AH battery when deeply cycled, and thei rupper limit on amperage is something ridiculous like 350 or 500 amps


I wish this trickle charge mentality would climb back in the insane asylum with the old wives and their crazy tales.

[ggadwa]

If anyone is interested here's what two manufacturers say about charging AGM's:
For maximum battery life, Optima and Odessey advise that normal charging should be limited to 10 amperes. Other manufacturers advise similar limits. So-called sealed batteries can be especially sensitive, but in no case should any automotive battery be allowed to heat significantly while charging. Excessive charging current and temperatures will age a battery before its time and can even be dangerous. When you overcharge a battery, essentially you are manufacturing hydrogen.

I have a Temperature Probe on my two AGM batteries from the Blue Sky Solar Controller, but worry that the 4 gauge line from my High Amperage Alternator may shorten the life of the AGM's when on those long day Truck Camper travels.

One nice thing about AGM's is they recover or recharge from discharge quicker that wet cell batteries.

GARY


GARY

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Dat's why I recommended the 120-ampere version. Protects the wire well enough.

[bigfootford]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
But remember that link leads to a post that is 5 years old.

I recommend using 6 (six) AWG wire to feet that pretty, dual contact plug and socket. The wire is going to be exposed because it passes under the truck. Use a GARDEN HOSE or heater hose to act as a protective cover and keep it well away from the exhaust system.

You are going to need CIRCUIT BREAKERS at BOTH ENDS.
Under the hood
At the Camper batteries
Two breakers


FORGIVE THE IMAGE EXAMPLE Choose 120-amp breakers

http://www.delcity.net/store/Hi!Amp-Surface-Mount-!-%3Cbr%3EManual-Reset-%28Switchable%29/p_193073

An auto body shop has the tools and expertise to cut a good looking hole in the truck fender.

Since your battery is AGM you can mount the breaker right next to the RV battery. The best place to take power -from- the truck is right at the alternator output stud. The big one. Mount the truck-side circuit breaker on a fender well.

You're not going to believe how much faster and more correct the improved system is going to charge the camper batteries. The parts I listed are fine for one or (2) AGM batteries.

The system components I chose are automatic except for the breakers which must be reset manually if shorted. The battery isolator is TOTALLY AUTOMATIC. No switches, no wires. It's the proven hot setup...

I played with the 30 amp version of those breakers. I found that they dropped .1 volts at 25 amps... ugggg... Even the damn solenoids drop about the same!....

Jim

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Kinda nice to keep the pickup battery maintained while parked...

[ggadwa]

A question: Since AGM batteries are known to be sensitive to over charging is it wise to have a high current charge line from the Truck Alternator/batteries to the RV battery bank??? It seems like any long road trips would be detrimental to the AGM batteries. Typical Alternator output voltage is on the high side and a 4 gauge charge line to the AGM's from a 100 to 200 amp alternator seems like a possible overcharge issue.

Asking only because I am contemplating doing this mod for my two in series 6 volt 220 amp AGM batteries.

GARY

[MEXICOWANDERER]

But remember that link leads to a post that is 5 years old.

I recommend using 6 (six) AWG wire to feet that pretty, dual contact plug and socket. The wire is going to be exposed because it passes under the truck. Use a GARDEN HOSE or heater hose to act as a protective cover and keep it well away from the exhaust system.

You are going to need CIRCUIT BREAKERS at BOTH ENDS.
Under the hood
At the Camper batteries
Two breakers


FORGIVE THE IMAGE EXAMPLE Choose 120-amp breakers

http://www.delcity.net/store/Hi!Amp-Surface-Mount-!-%3Cbr%3EManual-Reset-%28Switchable%29/p_193073

An auto body shop has the tools and expertise to cut a good looking hole in the truck fender.

Since your battery is AGM you can mount the breaker right next to the RV battery. The best place to take power -from- the truck is right at the alternator output stud. The big one. Mount the truck-side circuit breaker on a fender well.

You're not going to believe how much faster and more correct the improved system is going to charge the camper batteries. The parts I listed are fine for one or (2) AGM batteries.

The system components I chose are automatic except for the breakers which must be reset manually if shorted. The battery isolator is TOTALLY AUTOMATIC. No switches, no wires. It's the proven hot setup...

[bigfootford]

This is how you do it to accomplish 30+ amps to your batteries and run that fridge.

Although this is a truck and camper the need for big wire and sufficient connectors to handle the amps is what is required.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23601503.cfm

Jim