Battery Questions

[dpgllg]

Hello,


First let me say that I know or understand very little of the terms associated with batteries.

We purchased our new 5th wheel last June. Only used it a few times before winter due to illness. The dealer installed this battery:

DEKA MARINE MASTER BATTERY $113.37
SPECIFICATIONS
Cold Cranking Amperage: 650 A
MCA Cranking Amperage: 875 A
Negative Terminal Location: Top Right
Positive Terminal Location: Top Left
Reserve Capacity: 105 min
Terminal Type: Top Mount
Voltage: 12.0 VDC

The battery drained rather quickly while in storage even though the battery disconnect was disconnected. My 5th wheel requires that the passenger side rear slide be out to access the rear of the 5th wheel. I would bring it home charge it using a deep cycle setting and put it back in. his is a chore for me as the battery weighs 49 pounds.

In my old 5th wheel, I put in a Optima Blue Top battery and used it for over 7 years. I let it go on the trade due to its age. I was very happy with the battery, It always had a charge and never died on me.I went online to look for another Optima Blue top and found these three:

Optima Blue Top, Deep Cycle Battery, Group Size 31, 900 CCA $331.99
SPECIFICATIONS
Cold Cranking Amperage: 900 A
Cranking Amperage: 1125 A
Negative Terminal Location: Top Right
Positive Terminal Location: Top Left
Reserve Capacity: 155 min
Terminal Type: Top Mount
Voltage: 12.0 VDC

Optima Blue Top, Deep Cycle Battery, Group Size 34, 750 CCA $276.99
SPECIFICATIONS
Cold Cranking Amperage: 750 A
Cranking Amperage: 870 A
Negative Terminal Location: Top Right
Positive Terminal Location: Top Left
Reserve Capacity: 120 min
Terminal Type: Top Mount
Voltage: 12.0 VDC

Optima Blue Top, Deep Cycle Battery, Group Size 27, 800 CCA $298.99
SPECIFICATIONS
Cold Cranking Amperage: 800 A
Cranking Amperage: 1000 A
Negative Terminal Location: Top Right
Positive Terminal Location: Top Left
Reserve Capacity: 140 min
Terminal Type: Top Mount
Voltage: 12.0 VDC

I have to admit I am somewhat shocked by the prices of the Optima Batteries. On the above batteries I can get a 25% price reduction if I order online through Advance Auto Parts and pick it up in store which is not a problem for me.

Okay so now all of my questions:

1. Does anybody have any experience with the DEKA batteries?

2. If with my very limited knowledge believe I do not need to be concerned with Cranking amps but rather the reserve capicity correct?

3. My 5th wheel has a solar plug jack on the front that allows you to connect a specific 90 watt solar panel to the battery.

Furrion Solar Panel

This Furrion panel costs $499.99. Can I install some type of solar panel to just keep the battery charged while in storage? Do I need a 90 watt panel and if not what size do I need?

4. If I go with an Optima battery which one would work best for me? We do NOT dry camp but we do overnight sometimes in a rest area to get some sleep. We use the lights to get ready for bed. Once in bed no lights are on. The refrigerator is on propane. Once in awhile, we will take quick showers to freshen up. Water heater on propane.

5. I know the battery I have is not even been used a year but I also believe that it could have sat at the dealers for some period of time. Is there any way to determine a manufactor date?

6. Am I crazy thinking about replacing this battery? Is there something else I can do to prevent it from draining so fast? I mean I would go over to the 5th wheel to check on it while stored and put the one slide out and then back in when done. I rarely use the lights. Disconnect the battery using disconnect and leave. I could only do this three times before I needed to charge the battery.

7. Are there other battery options that work as good or better than the Optima batteries for less money?

8. I am concerned that one of these times that the slide will only be partially in or out when the battery dies. If I plug the 5th wheel into my 7 pin connector will this connection provide enough power to get the slide in? Would jumper cables be a better option?

Thanks for reading this long post and I look forward to getting the information I need to make the right choice.

Dave

[dpgllg]

Gjac wrote:

SoundGuy wrote:

Gjac wrote:
If bad replace with 2 6 volt Golf Cart batteries (wired in series to make 12 volts) from Costco or Sam's Club as enblethen suggested.

SoundGuy wrote:
Why would he do that? :h

Gjac wrote:
I never told the OP to waste his money upgrading his battery ...

There are several reasons to replace with 2 6v GC batteries instead of a 12v marine battery IF his battery is bad even if you don't dry camp often.

Hmmmm ... a contradiction? :

For the OP who "never" dry camps a single G27 or G31 will serve his purposes just fine, as it has my own all the years we've been camping. :B

Where is the contradiction? Was my post not clear? I said nothing about upgrading his battery. I said IF his battery was bad then replace it. IF it is good there is no need to replace it. Op please let us know if you found your problem.

The battery will be placed on a charger later today. Once fully charged I will take it to a local auto parts store to have it tested.

I have the disconnect switch That I will be installing to insure the power is fully cut off. I can not do that until after this Friday when my 5th wheel is pulled out of the underground storage facility.

I will post once the battery is tested

Thanks!

Dave

[Gjac]

SoundGuy wrote:

Gjac wrote:
If bad replace with 2 6 volt Golf Cart batteries (wired in series to make 12 volts) from Costco or Sam's Club as enblethen suggested.

SoundGuy wrote:
Why would he do that? :h

Gjac wrote:
I never told the OP to waste his money upgrading his battery ...

There are several reasons to replace with 2 6v GC batteries instead of a 12v marine battery IF his battery is bad even if you don't dry camp often.

Hmmmm ... a contradiction? :

For the OP who "never" dry camps a single G27 or G31 will serve his purposes just fine, as it has my own all the years we've been camping. :B

Where is the contradiction? Was my post not clear? I said nothing about upgrading his battery. I said IF his battery was bad then replace it. IF it is good there is no need to replace it. Op please let us know if you found your problem.

[enblethen]

There are many items in the rig that needs 12 volts DC to operate even when on propane. Refer, water heater, furnace, and LP detector.
The 6 volt GC batteries will sevre the OP better then the majority of the cranking/ marine style batteries. The plates are farther apart and thicker.
It is up to the OP to decide what is better for him! I know I am better off with the 6 volters.

[SoundGuy]

Gjac wrote:
If bad replace with 2 6 volt Golf Cart batteries (wired in series to make 12 volts) from Costco or Sam's Club as enblethen suggested.

SoundGuy wrote:
Why would he do that? :h

Gjac wrote:
I never told the OP to waste his money upgrading his battery ...

There are several reasons to replace with 2 6v GC batteries instead of a 12v marine battery IF his battery is bad even if you don't dry camp often.

Hmmmm ... a contradiction? :W

For the OP who "never" dry camps a single G27 or G31 will serve his purposes just fine, as it has my own all the years we've been camping. :B

[Gjac]

SoundGuy wrote:

Gjac wrote:
If bad replace with 2 6 volt Golf Cart batteries (wired in series to make 12 volts) from Costco or Sam's Club as enblethen suggested.

Why would he do that? :h The OP said in his original post - "We do NOT dry camp but we do overnight sometimes in a rest area to get some sleep. We use the lights to get ready for bed. Once in bed no lights are on. The refrigerator is on propane. Once in awhile, we will take quick showers to freshen up. Water heater on propane." That being the case he has absolutely no need for dual 6 volt GC-2 batteries when his single 12 volt will serve his purposes just fine, particularly if his rig is equipped with LED interior lighting which draws very little. It would also help enormously to turn off the fridge climate control heating element which is an unnecessary load on his battery. Rather than wasting $$$ upgrading his battery what he should be doing is find the source of this draw down on his battery even when his battery disconnect switch is off. Somethin' ain't right and upgrading his battery isn't going to solve it, fixing the problem will. 😉

I never told the OP to waste his money upgrading his battery, I explained in detail how to check for parasitic draws and how to check his battery before replacing anything. There are several reasons to replace with 2 6v GC batteries instead of a 12v marine battery IF his battery is bad even if you don't dry camp often. The first is if you ever have to run the propane furnace over night at a rest stop with 12 v battery you are libel to have a dead battery in the morning. Also your refer and WH need battery power to operate even on propane. The second is that the GC batteries will last a lot longer and will start of with 230 or so amp hrs. Both will lose capacity over time but the plates are thicker in the GC batteries. The GC batteries can take deeper discharges and more often than the 12 v battery, especially when dealing with parasitic draws or a light in a storage bay or something being left on accidentally. When you compare the cost of 2 6 V GC batteries at Sam's Club at $160 vs a marine battery at $113 it just makes more sense to me to spend at little more for more longevity and more amp hrs when needed.

[pianotuna]

I would never put brakes through a disconnect switch.

[red31]

the one main 'ground' wire, negative, just like unscrewing/removing the negative.

[SoundGuy]

tenbear wrote:
It seems to be generally agreed that it is best to install the switch in the negative lead. The reason for this is that if somehow a wire, tool, etc gets on the positive wiring no harm is done. If the negative post is somehow grounded the only bad effect is to connect the battery to the usual circuitry.

If the positive is disconnected and something, wire etc, contacts the positive terminal and the chassis, it could cause lots of damage.

Although I wouldn't disagree with this explanation I would disagree that most do it this way and instead install it in the positive lead, just as I always do, as I've never been concerned about "accidental grounding". 🙂

[tenbear]

It seems to be generally agreed that it is best to install the switch in the negative lead. The reason for this is that if somehow a wire, tool, etc gets on the positive wiring no harm is done. If the negative post is somehow grounded the only bad effect is to connect the battery to the usual circuitry.

If the positive is disconnected and something, wire etc, contacts the positive terminal and the chassis, it could cause lots of damage.

Hope this explains the difference.

[dpgllg]

SoundGuy wrote:

dpgllg wrote:
Trying to find a way to change the wiring to the slide and whatever else might be drawing current I have decided that since I have a brand new in box Blue Sea Battery disconnect that I purchased to install on my old 5th wheel that I will install this switch directly off the battery cable.

Battery Disconnect

This will eliminate a draw from the battery while stored.

It sure will ... good plan. :B Just keep in mind you need to decide whether to also run the trailer brakes' breakaway system through this switch or whether to wire it directly to the battery. For a number of reasons I chose the former but it does mean I have to ensure the switch is on anytime I tow ... I do, so it's never been an issue but you may want to have this connected all the time so if you do forget your breakaway system will still be functional.

I always turn the power on when I tow so the break away will function plus when traveling I run my refrigerator and turn on water pump for bathroom breaks (switch gets turned on then off when done).

One other question, should I install the new disconnect on the positive or negative cable? And why if you don't mind explaining.

Thanks

Dave

[tenbear]

Thanks for the post. Sounds like you are on the right track.

[SoundGuy]

dpgllg wrote:
Trying to find a way to change the wiring to the slide and whatever else might be drawing current I have decided that since I have a brand new in box Blue Sea Battery disconnect that I purchased to install on my old 5th wheel that I will install this switch directly off the battery cable.

Battery Disconnect

This will eliminate a draw from the battery while stored.

It sure will ... good plan. :B Just keep in mind you need to decide whether to also run the trailer brakes' breakaway system through this switch or whether to wire it directly to the battery. For a number of reasons I chose the former but it does mean I have to ensure the switch is on anytime I tow ... I do, so it's never been an issue but you may want to have this connected all the time so if you do forget your breakaway system will still be functional.

[dpgllg]

OP here,

Thank you all for your responses. I now know that I need to address the parasitic load that is draining my battery before I do anything else. I just was not looking in the right direction.

I pick up my RV this Friday from the underground storage site. It has been there since the end of October. We did go up and check on it but it isn't the same.

I called my dealer and he informed me that the disconnect DOES NOT kill all power. There is definetly power to the one slide that blocks access to the rear of the RV when closed. He claimed that this was intentional as a safety feature. He also suggested a few other things such as the gas monitor.

Trying to find a way to change the wiring to the slide and whatever else might be drawing current I have decided that since I have a brand new in box Blue Sea Battery disconnect that I purchased to install on my old 5th wheel that I will install this switch directly off the battery cable.

Battery Disconnect

This will eliminate a draw from the battery while stored. I will charge my Deka battery and have it tested at a parts store to make sure there is not a dead cell or anything else wrong with it. If there is then I will purchase a new battery at that time. If it tests ok I will keep it and save the money.

Thanks again for your help!

Dave

[SoundGuy]

Gjac wrote:
If bad replace with 2 6 volt Golf Cart batteries (wired in series to make 12 volts) from Costco or Sam's Club as enblethen suggested.

Why would he do that? :h The OP said in his original post - "We do NOT dry camp but we do overnight sometimes in a rest area to get some sleep. We use the lights to get ready for bed. Once in bed no lights are on. The refrigerator is on propane. Once in awhile, we will take quick showers to freshen up. Water heater on propane." That being the case he has absolutely no need for dual 6 volt GC-2 batteries when his single 12 volt will serve his purposes just fine, particularly if his rig is equipped with LED interior lighting which draws very little. It would also help enormously to turn off the fridge climate control heating element which is an unnecessary load on his battery. Rather than wasting $$$ upgrading his battery what he should be doing is find the source of this draw down on his battery even when his battery disconnect switch is off. Somethin' ain't right and upgrading his battery isn't going to solve it, fixing the problem will. 😉