IMO it has a lot to do with how often you tow the trailer. Sitting there the brakes can get rusted via the air cooling holes, which is why they say to check the brakes every year.
Meanwhile they say to do the bearings by hand every year or every 12K miles whichever comes first, and that requires the hubs to be off too. Which is when you can check the brakes too and meet that time table now the hubs are off anyway.
So what do you do if you only go 6K a year? You can get away with not removing the hubs and doing the bearings by hand till next year, but now you can't see the brakes. So that is where IMO how often you move it comes into play.
If you move it often then IMO you can get away without checking the brakes with the hubs off so often, since they won't have rusted in place.
So now how often do you have to take the hubs off and still get away with it? No idea. I go by how much money I have or don't, and then convince myself it is ok to skip this time around if I am short of money (I can't do it myself)
You will never know how long you can get away with it until it goes bad on you, then you know that was too long
🙂I did find out that having the whole thing done by pros is good when they found the equalizer bolts had worn the holes bigger and were about to go through and it needed new equalizers and bolts etc. I didn't get the wet kit like I should have I suppose. So if you skip the bearings and the brakes, you might still have your equalizers fall off! RVing is out to get you
😞
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.