Best way to test for cracked water lines

[uintafly]

First off I have to acmit to being paranoid about water leaks. Water (in the wrong places) seems to be the biggest destroyer of a good RV, so I am paranoid about it. Maybe too paranoid.

We camped this weekend with forcasted lows to get around 28-30 degrees, which didnt really worry me. And Friday night probably got to around 28 with no problem. the second night however the temp dropped probably to close to 24 and was below freezing for around 10 hours. The only thing that seemed to freeze was the fresh water drain as it is exposed to the weather, but there seemed to be no harm done. There was also no sign of leakage anywhere else. but we went home fairly early that day and didn't really use much water in the morning. I blew out my lines later that night as we will drop into the high 20's for the next few days. But yesterday I started wondering about the outside shower, and the lines that while inside the coach run under the shower and right along the outside wall. Even though the heat was on all night is there much chance of leaks?

I also went last night and closed all the faucets and ran the pump dry for a couple minutes just to get some air pressure in the lines to test this morning, and there was no pressure this morning. I am assuming air pressure acts different than water pressure, but I would have felt much better if there was still some built up pressure. As I being overly paranoid or is there a chance of a leak?

Thanks,

[uintafly]

Thanks for the help guys. Turns out I was being paranoid. I pressurized the lines with the pump for 30 minutes and checked all lines with no problems. Then I turned on the city water for 30 and still no problems. There are a few places (under the tub back in the corner) that I was most worried about and that were hard to check. But I got a 5 ft. pole and put some toilet paper on the end and ran it along the pipes and all over the joints. Came back completely dry. Now I can get back to more enyoyable worries, like where I should camp next.

[westend]

aruba5er wrote:
you can't build pressure with a diapharm pump. when it runs dry it's dry. Those pumps are not compressors. Unless you have a really old system that had an air compressor. Haven't seen those since the mid 70's

Yup, I have one of those air-over-water systems. No problem pressurizing the system, even easier for winterization.

If you think there may definitely be a leak, you should pressure test the system with air after draining the system. If it's only a possibility that there is a leak, fill the system with water or RV antifreeze and observe for leaks. A cracked fitting or bursted pipe from freezing will gush water (or spray it), not just dribble or drip.

I have all new plumbing and rebuilt all of the supply valves in my rig (except the toilet). I would bet that if I did a "hold pressure" test, I would lose some pressure after a few hours. It is the nature of the beast.

[calamus]

I have an adapter made with a air chuck so I can hook the air hose right to it and then a ball valve and out of that a garden hose adapter and I can set my compressor at about 50 psi I can check for leaks in the spring and blow out all the piping in the fall. It cost about 10 bucks but well worth the price.

[aruba5er]

you can't build pressure with a diapharm pump. when it runs dry it's dry. Those pumps are not compressors. Unless you have a really old system that had an air compressor. Haven't seen those since the mid 70's

[Gdetrailer]

myredracer wrote:
It's okay to be paranoid, but only when it comes to water leaks in an RV. 🙂

You could go to HD or hardware store and buy a pressure gauge and a few fittings. With a compressor you could charge the entire system to say 50 psi and let it sit for a day or two and periodically check the gauge. It should not drop over a day or two. This is the only way to know for sure and it's how piping system in new houses get tested.

If you did happen to have a problem, the PEX piping will be okay and it'd be a fitting, valve or faucet (or pump if it had water in it) that could be damaged.

'Course, make sure the fittings for testing you put together don't leak, lol.

THIS is the way to do it although I would suggest using a bit less air pressure, I tend to do this at 25 lbs to 30 lbs..

The reason to test with air is if you truly have a bad leak air makes no MESS but you WILL HEAR the air leak. If you have a minor leak you will still hear the leak but it won't be as loud..

After the air check passes then I CAREFULLY apply water pressure from my house (garden hose sprayer with a hose thread works great for this so you can shut off the water quickly at any signs of a leak).

Learned that one the hard way in my first TT which was used and the previous owner conveniently "forgot" to tell me that it wasn't winterized :M and had water coming out of trailer wall bottom at the bathroom when I applied water from my house...

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I installed a metal tire valve and gauge on a coupling next to the pump. Pressured to 30 PSI and then waited. You would be surprised at the leaks I found.

[MNtundraRet]

bgum wrote:
Sure fire method to find a problem is to go camping. If there is one it will let you know.

That's what known as learning a lesson the hard way. It doesn't happen to people who are proactive. :B

[bgum]

Sure fire method to find a problem is to go camping. If there is one it will let you know.

[myredracer]

It's okay to be paranoid, but only when it comes to water leaks in an RV. 🙂

You could go to HD or hardware store and buy a pressure gauge and a few fittings. With a compressor you could charge the entire system to say 50 psi and let it sit for a day or two and periodically check the gauge. It should not drop over a day or two. This is the only way to know for sure and it's how piping system in new houses get tested.

If you did happen to have a problem, the PEX piping will be okay and it'd be a fitting, valve or faucet (or pump if it had water in it) that could be damaged.

'Course, make sure the fittings for testing you put together don't leak, lol.

[MNtundraRet]

To check for water leaks you have to have water in the water-tank. Turn on pump and run water through all water lines to remove air. The pump should then work to pressurize the system and shut down.

If the pump should cycle in just 5 to 10 minutes you could have a loose connection at one of the sinks, toilet, or shower. Check for loose connection or dripping.

If you actually froze and burst a pipe or connection, the pump will start quickly after reaching pressure, or maybe never reach pressure and stop running. Turn off the pump and look for the leaking water.

This is the way to check for any leaks each spring before ever even thinking about just hooking a hose to inlet for water. Without a pump test, no way to find a silent leak before it is too late.

[mpfireman]

Bobbo wrote:
Close all water outlets, turn on the water pump. Let it sit. If the water pump occasionally comes on, you have a pressure loss (water leak) somewhere.

Not interlay true, Those water pumps can and do leak pressure over time, thus even if you have no leaks in your system, that pump will kick in to re pressurize the lines. We always turn off our pump during the night, but sometimes we forget, so during the night we will hear that pump kick on for a few seconds to re pressurize the water line.

[Bobbo]

Close all water outlets, turn on the water pump. Let it sit. If the water pump occasionally comes on, you have a pressure loss (water leak) somewhere.