Best Way??

[nvreloader]

I have 4-Canadian SC6P-220w Panels with the following spec's,
Pmax=220W
Voc =36.60V
ISC =8.09A
VMP =29.30V
Imp =7.52A
Voc-coef =0.1281V/C
Noct =45.00C
15A fuse rating/series

Per actual measurement of the roof/dimensions, the farest run of the panel cables (10ga/MC4 connectors) will be 15/20' max into the area where the controller, a Tristar-MPPT-60a,w/ battery temp gage will be mounted.

Should I run all 8 cables (4 panels) down the reefer vent area into the electrical bay and tie them into a neg/pos buss bars, then run WHAT sized wire to the controller??

Is there a better/easier way, to route all these panel wires?

I am taking this in small steps, so I can understand it.

Tia,
Don

[mena661]

BFL13 wrote:

Hope the Blue Sea doesn't cost more than the switches I use 🙂

I already have the switch from my old rig. 🙂 And the Blue Sea switch cost me $27 but its rated for 300A fits 4/0 wire. It was my main battery disconnect on my old 5er. Re-reading the spec it says it's only good for 48V. I thought it was 600V. Guess I can't recommend that. Thanks BFL. LOL!

[nvreloader]

Ok Guys, (here is where I start getting confused),

I have to run 2 panels in series=1 string, times 2 strings,(4 panels)
Then parallel these 2 strings into a final run of 1 neg wire and 1 pos wire to the CC.
The OEM panel wires are about 36" long and 10 ga wire,MC-4 plugs.

I would like to keep the loss to 1% or lower, if possible.

Would it be best start with 8/10 ga wire (have both sizes) at the end of 36" MC-4 OEM connectors when making the series and parallel connections, of these panels?

OR use the 8/10ga wire at the end of the parallel connections for the final run to the CC?

Do I need to balance this series/parallel wiring of the panels, meaning all wiring is the same/shortest lengths for the series/parallel wiring,etc.

Tia,
Don

[time2roll]

Two in series puts you at 72 volts DC and above most "12 volt" DC equipment.
I used a 240 vac safety switch from Home Depot. About $15. It works but is not DC rated. At 72 volts you might be OK as mine seems to work but without the rating I can't recommend it.

DC will create an arc or spark across the gap easier than ac so I have been looking at replacing the switch.

Been considering the Square D - H221N 30a safety switch
This is rated 250 vdc.

youtube demonstration video

I keep looking for the small solar DC isolation switches but only seem to be available outside the USA. USA grid tie inverters seem to have the DC isolation integral with the inverter.

[big_buford]

westend wrote:

nvreloader wrote:
Thanks Guys,

Since no fuses are needed,
What kind/type of electrical disconnects would you use on the panels or wiring so you could work on the wiring or system, if needed and not let the magical Blue smoke out or go for a ride on the electrical freight train?

Tia,
Don

Bussman Hi amp circuit breaker
They also make them in lesser amperage if you wish it to afford circuit protection at a lower amp rating.

I use Mid range 25 amp model

I'm also using these on my system. Wired for 24v and see up to 42v full sun. In their data sheet it says 48v max. Would these not work on a higher voltage system?

[BFL13]

mena661 wrote:
I'm just going to use a Blue Sea switch on mine.

Hope the Blue Sea doesn't cost more than the switches I use 🙂

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Fuses-battery-Accessories/Keyed-Battery-Master-Cut-Off-Switch/810...

[nvreloader]

Thanks for the photo's, on what to NOT do!

I KNOW, I can do better than that. :E :R

Tia,
Don

[2oldman]

Nvreloader, you may want to see this.

In Laughlin NV yesterday, I happened upon this coach with a really good solar wiring job. Thought I'd snap a few pics and pass it along as a possible example for you. The combiner boxes are on the side for easy access:




A bit closer view. Notice the wind turbine on the back. I like the way he made a nice rack for it.




A closeup of the wiring. Nice job on the combiner box, and I love the spaghetti wiring to the right. I would have taken more shots of his most excellent home-made tilting racks, but I don't think he wanted me stealing his design. It was quite clever.. it looked like he used gluing clamps.

[westend]

nvreloader wrote:
Thanks Guys,

Since no fuses are needed,
What kind/type of electrical disconnects would you use on the panels or wiring so you could work on the wiring or system, if needed and not let the magical Blue smoke out or go for a ride on the electrical freight train?

Tia,
Don

Bussman Hi amp circuit breaker
They also make them in lesser amperage if you wish it to afford circuit protection at a lower amp rating.

I use Mid range 25 amp model

[mena661]

I'm just going to use a Blue Sea switch on mine.

[nvreloader]

Thanks Guys,

Since no fuses are needed,
What kind/type of electrical disconnects would you use on the panels or wiring so you could work on the wiring or system, if needed and not let the magical Blue smoke out or go for a ride on the electrical freight train?

Tia,
Don

[CA_Traveler]

smkettner wrote:
I agree, NO fuses needed on the panel side. Service disconnect maybe.
The current is self limiting. You can short the panels and no harm done.

More than two parallel technically needs a fuse.

X2

Due to the high voltage a disconnect near the CC would be a safety item.

[time2roll]

I agree, NO fuses needed on the panel side. Service disconnect maybe.
The current is self limiting. You can short the panels and no harm done.

More than two parallel technically needs a fuse.

[2oldman]

nvreloader wrote:
I know,I need some fuses on the panel wiring, Where should I put the 15a fuses/holders?

Let's see if I get yelled at for this answer: No, you don't need fuses on the panel wiring.

[nvreloader]

Guys,

We are starting to go off track here, Please bear with me, OK. :B

Here is the MS calculator I am using with the following spec's,
for 4-Canadin CS6P-220w panels, see info here:

http://98.115.2.6/en/strings/calc.php?viewdata=1&app=yes&mode=&ModInput=Manufacturer&manufacturer=89&model=CS6P-220&ratedPower=&NOCT=&Voc=&TCVoc=&Vmp=&TCVmp=&Isc=&TCIsc=&Imp=&TCImp=&product=23&Vmin=11.5&Tmin=-20&TminUnits=1&Vmax=15.5&Tmax=100&TmaxUnits=1

Min/max battery voltage = 11.5/min and 15.5/max
Low Temp range = -20*F
High Temp range= 100*F

Per the MS calculator,
I need to have 2 modules in series per string and 2 strings in parallel, with the following spec's noted,
880watts, Optimal configuration
Max Voc=87.00>150.0v = Vin Max
Min Vmp=51.04>15.5v = Vb Max
Max Vmp=64.37v

This is the way I'll wire these panels up,as indicated above.

I know,I need some fuses on the panel wiring, Where should I put the 15a fuses/holders?

Before the series/parallel junctions or at the wiring ends at the buss bars junction?

Tia,
Don

[2oldman]

BFL13 wrote:
so unless I lost a decimal place somewhere, that would be 25-37.5 = -12.5C

or 10.4F. That's good to know, but it's going to be a long, long time before my panels ever see 10°.