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Black Tank Handle pulled out of valve

CR_CRUISER
Explorer
Explorer
Last fall before I put the fiver to bed for the winter, I replaced both the grey and black tank valves as they were leaking slightly. I lubricated the slides with silicone grease and they slid back and forth quite easily.
We used the trailer last weekend and when I went to dump the tanks, the rod on the black tank valve pulled out of the slide. I didn't reef on the handle, just pulled it as I normally would. No amount of playing with it would get the valve to open.
Now what do I do? There's about 10 gallons of ickys in the tank and short of unbolting the valve and having pour out on the ground, how do I empty the tank so that I can replace the valve again?
21 REPLIES 21

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
dougrainer wrote:
Chris Bryant wrote:
You can cut the valve right at the body, reach and pull the blade with a pair of needle nose pliers. If you don't pull it all the way, you won't loose much- even if you pull it all the way it isn't too awful.

A bad pic of where to cut-


Better way. IF you can get to the opposite side of the valve where the handle pulled out. Have a 1/4 inch dowel rod or screwdriver(6 inches of blade/dowel). Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the middle of the back side of the valve. Immediately after pulling out the drill bit, insert the 1/4 inch dowel or screwdriver and PUSH the blade OPEN. Leave the dowel in until the tank is empty. IF you cannot get to the back side, then use Chris's method. The insert pull rod is NOT threaded inside the valve. It is a cap type press on fit. Doug


I like that- easier and less messy!
-- Chris Bryant

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Chris Bryant wrote:
You can cut the valve right at the body, reach and pull the blade with a pair of needle nose pliers. If you don't pull it all the way, you won't loose much- even if you pull it all the way it isn't too awful.

A bad pic of where to cut-


Better way. IF you can get to the opposite side of the valve where the handle pulled out. Have a 1/4 inch dowel rod or screwdriver(6 inches of blade/dowel). Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the middle of the back side of the valve. Immediately after pulling out the drill bit, insert the 1/4 inch dowel or screwdriver and PUSH the blade OPEN. Leave the dowel in until the tank is empty. IF you cannot get to the back side, then use Chris's method. The insert pull rod is NOT threaded inside the valve. It is a cap type press on fit. Doug

CR_CRUISER
Explorer
Explorer
Chris Bryant wrote:
You can cut the valve right at the body, reach and pull the blade with a pair of needle nose pliers. If you don't pull it all the way, you won't loose much- even if you pull it all the way it isn't too awful.

A bad pic of where to cut-


I will suit up, get a puke bucket ready and give this a try. Thanks.

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
You can cut the valve right at the body, reach and pull the blade with a pair of needle nose pliers. If you don't pull it all the way, you won't loose much- even if you pull it all the way it isn't too awful.

A bad pic of where to cut-
-- Chris Bryant

1995brave
Nomad
Nomad
Look on the end of the rod, it is probably threaded. Just screw it back in.

352
Explorer
Explorer
HERE
The manatees of Halls river Homosassa Springs Fl

1985 Chevy Silverado c10. 454 stroker / 495 CI = 675 HP. 650lb of torque. Turb0 400 tranny. 3000 stall converter. Aluminum heads. 3 inch exhaust flowmasters. 2 inch headers. Heat and air. Tubed.

garyemunson
Explorer
Explorer
You may want to pull one side up on a stack of 2 x 8s to tip the rig far enough to get the goo to go the far side of the tank letting you swap the valve without a flood....