Changing fixed dump valve to flexible cable controlled valve

[dpgllg]

I am looking at this flexible cable controlled dump valve kit from Valterra.

Valterra Flexible cable kit

I have three dump valves on my 5th wheel. Black, grey, and galley. The galley tank in particular is extremely difficult for me to reach to dump the tank. I literally have to crawl under the RV to reach the valve. I have health issues that have made this even more difficult.

Has anyone installed and used these valves?

What is the level of difficulty in installation?

How have they worked out and held up over time?

I really need to find a way to make the process easier. I would run the cables up into my front compartment accessed by the side door opening. I could build a small box to contain the valves there.

Any feedback on the product installation and use will be appreciated.

Thanks!

Dave

[ernie1]

Yes there is a manual override in the form of an allen wrench that is used to engage the gear that opens the valve. I went with Drainmaster because it has metal gears and a better warranty than the other brands. I think that the people that may ever complain about failure of these dump valves (electric ones) don't maintain them and just run them until they fail. An occasional cleaning of the blades and lubrication with an all silicone lube will keep them humming for a long time.

[bucky]

dryfly wrote:
Could you just re-plumb and get the valve out closer to the side of your trailer? Or, mush easier, use one of the valves that connects to the bayonet fitting on the drain pipe and leave the original valve permanently open.

This is the easiest, cheapest, and best solution to this problem.
I also have the galley drain under the slide, what a stupid design. I think I paid ~$35 for the thing. It has it's own valve, so no other surprises either.

[dpgllg]

ernie1 wrote:
I have the Drainmaster and think they are great! A bit pricey but if I had health problems I would consider using it. I've had endless problems with Valterra and similar products.

One question on the Drain Master Valves. Is there a manual override to dump the tank in case of no power? The Barker have a manual override and I just wanted to see if the Drain Master also has this feature

Thanks!

Dave

[dpgllg]

shepfly wrote:
The DRAINMASTER electric valve at 3 inches will bolt in place of your 1 1/2 valve, you may find you already have a 3 inch valve, hooked up to 1 1/2 fitting. You will not be changing the inlet and outlet flanges, just the valve body bolted between them. I looked at both Valterra and Baker electric valves and saw negative comments. Dave

I went back to the Drain Master website and found installation instructions. I would need to purchase a 1.5 inch flange reducer to connect to the 1.5 inch pipe. It uses the same motor regardless of pipe size. I will be looking into these more closely now

Thanks!

Dave

[dpgllg]

dryfly wrote:

dpgllg wrote:

alfredmay wrote:
I have used solid and flex dump valves. I have installed both types myself. I much prefer the solid valve rod because it works better. If it were me I would look into lengthening the rod on the valve you have now. Unscrew the T handle, screw on a long nut and rescrew an extension rod with support. Doing this will be easier than replacing the entire valve.

http://rvsupplies.com/valterra-waste-valve-extension-rod-kit-10-to-12-carded/?gclid=CP_KlN2Y6NMCFYhMDQodSVAMpQ

An extension handle will not work on the galley valve. The valve handle points straight down toward the ground and not out toward the side of the RV.

Thanks!

Dave

I just thought of one more thing if you decide not to go with the electric valve. Even though your handle points down, I THINK you might be able to remove the 4 machine screws holding the two pieces of the body, and then rotate the part with the handle on it 90 degrees. Seems like when I've had mine apart it certainly looked possible.

If so, you could position the handle to pull left or right, your choice. After adding the extension as mentions above you would not have to get under your trailer.

Thanks for the advice but the other issue is this valve is also under my slide out so even if I turn the valve I would still have to then get under the slide out to pull it

Dave

[ernie1]

I have the Drainmaster and think they are great! A bit pricey but if I had health problems I would consider using it. I've had endless problems with Valterra and similar products.

[shepfly]

The DRAINMASTER electric valve at 3 inches will bolt in place of your 1 1/2 valve, you may find you already have a 3 inch valve, hooked up to 1 1/2 fitting. You will not be changing the inlet and outlet flanges, just the valve body bolted between them. I looked at both Valterra and Baker electric valves and saw negative comments. Dave

[dryfly]

dpgllg wrote:

alfredmay wrote:
I have used solid and flex dump valves. I have installed both types myself. I much prefer the solid valve rod because it works better. If it were me I would look into lengthening the rod on the valve you have now. Unscrew the T handle, screw on a long nut and rescrew an extension rod with support. Doing this will be easier than replacing the entire valve.

http://rvsupplies.com/valterra-waste-valve-extension-rod-kit-10-to-12-carded/?gclid=CP_KlN2Y6NMCFYhMDQodSVAMpQ

An extension handle will not work on the galley valve. The valve handle points straight down toward the ground and not out toward the side of the RV.

Thanks!

Dave

I just thought of one more thing if you decide not to go with the electric valve. Even though your handle points down, I THINK you might be able to remove the 4 machine screws holding the two pieces of the body, and then rotate the part with the handle on it 90 degrees. Seems like when I've had mine apart it certainly looked possible.

If so, you could position the handle to pull left or right, your choice. After adding the extension as mentions above you would not have to get under your trailer.

[dpgllg]

Lenny K wrote:
Ive been looking at this to make my 1.5 easier to drain.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/auto-drain/51560

Yes that is the Barker Auto drain mentioned before in this post. It does look like it would solve my problem valve location.

[Lenny_K]

Ive been looking at this to make my 1.5 easier to drain.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/auto-drain/51560

[dpgllg]

shepfly wrote:
I changed out cable operated valves which were very troublesome to DRAINMASTER electric valves, one of my best mods. Check them out. Since you have one problem valve you could keep cost down by only doing that one. Dave

These also look promising but so far I can not find a 1.5 inch valve on the website only 3 inch. My problem valve and pipe is a 1.5 inch.

[dpgllg]

delwhjr wrote:

j-d wrote:
Are your valves themselves OK? I ask because I remember seeing where Valterra had kits that fastened OVER ordinary valves and made them remote. That seems to be what our 2003 Jayco has. I think I can replace "valve only" and re-use the remote extensions. I remember reading something to the effect of "use with Bladex Valves." I don't know if every Valterra valve is a "Bladex."

I think this is what you were referring to:
Link

They are made by Barker

These look like exactly what I need. A little on the expensive side but probably well worth it!

Thank you so much for the information

Dave

[dpgllg]

Lwiddis wrote:
"I have three dump valves on my 5th wheel."

Three dump valves is two too many.

"I literally have to crawl under the RV to reach the valve"

And I worry about my hands after removing plastic gloves at a dump site and you are crawling under your RV? Amazing!

OP here

And this is helpful how?

I need constructive help not negative comments like yours. This forum is meant as a tool to exchange information and help fellow RV'ers not a place to ridicule someone.

[dryfly]

Could you just re-plumb and get the valve out closer to the side of your trailer? Or, mush easier, use one of the valves that connects to the bayonet fitting on the drain pipe and leave the original valve permanently open.