Cleaning out a DIY septic tank

[wopachop]

Sorry if im not using the correct term. We have an RV dump setup. Years ago i was told its (2) 50 gallon drums welded together with holes drilled in it.

Worked great for over 10 years. I think we finally clogged it up. It will only take around 10-20 gallons now before overflowing. Even if i wait over a month between dumps. In the past i could wait 1 day and continue dumping/flushing.

There is an ABS threaded cap to keep debris out. Im thinking about drilling a hole in that cap and installing an automotive valve stem so i can pressurize the setup and hopefully blow out the clogged holes.

Looking for a quick fix. Probably should have dumped some type of breakdown chemical down there months ago. Years ago.

Im a cheapo and dont want to pay someone to come clean it out. Not even sure if you would call it a septic tank. The man who installed it is no longer with us. So im not sure how big the holes are. How many holes. I do have an endoscope but not ready to sacrifice it just yet.

Think air pressure is worth a shot? Also considering a hose adapter. Blast it out with pressurized water. The schrader valve seems cleaner and easier. More control on pressure and no worries about backflow. I think there are still a few unclogged holes towards the top of the tanks which allows me 10-20 gallons of space. If i used a hose adapter i could leave the hose on and walk away. With the air pressure it might seep out the holes in a few seconds and never clear the problem area.

[winniman]

A properly built septic tank has a baffle of some sort to prevent solids from getting to the septic field. In Ontario, septic tanks have had two chambers for many decades. They now also require a filter at the exit of the tank. The only thing that separates the two chambers, is a baffle wall in the centre. Solids stay in the first chamber. Effluent goes over the baffle into the second chamber, and on into the septic field. This is why you should have your tank pumped on occasion to make sure no solids build up and get into the second chamber. Once they are into the second chamber, they could possibly get to the septic field. Solids reaching the septic field will soon plug the entire bed. Every area has slightly different rules for septic due to different soil conditions and percolation rates of the soils.

[wopachop]

Roger that....150psi, check!
Cuzzin Eddie outfit, check!
Volcano eruption in 3...2...1

[maillemaker]

I want you to crank up the air pressure to 150 PSI and fill 'er up!

🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂

[wopachop]

It very well might have a DIY outlet baffle. I know I said it's a barrel with holes drilled. That's the story I was told years ago. Asked the homeowner again if metal or plastic and she didnt know. So maybe the holes are not true.

I tried air pressure. Around 3psi. Not enough to register on a cheap pencil tire gauge. Air was leaking out the cap. It was just a quick test. Added teflon tape. Hit it again with a quick blast. I heard movement in the tank. Waited about an hour and unscrewed the cap. It was like holding your finger on a straw. Cap came off and water and air rushed down. Tank was full and overflowing when I screwed on the cap. Its clean looking water. No odor at all. I had filled the tank with hose water.

I hear everyone that it's time for a new one. It takes around 20ish gallons and there is no time rush. So for now we can dump which isn't very often. Just means doing it in stages a couple times a day. It's weird how the 20 gallons will become available in half a day. Maybe it takes 20g at first and then only 10g after. Either way it seems to drain a small portion off rather quickly for something I think is absorbing into close to saturated soil.

I'm still hoping enzyme and air pressure might clear out a soft clog if indeed its holes drilled in a barrel. Again no rush for the liquid to drain. So even 1 or 2 holes cleared lower in the barrel would help regain some capacity. Unless the barrels have disintegrated and filled with sand. I will sacrifice my cheasy endoscope at some point and feed it down the hole.

To answer a fellas question there is no RV dump into the main septic. City water, no wells.

Thanks to those with the helpful pics and info. I've been wanting to install a valve stem in the cap for months. People telling me no was the inspiration to finally do it!!

Giving the enzyme a few weeks and then will test capacity with a 5gal bucket. Fill it to overflow and then try air pressure again. Wait another time period and check again.

I think the endoscope would help answer lots of questions. Looking down the hole it's a double wye.

[John_Joey]

So how far away is the nearest well to this? Should be 100 or more feet away. Hopefully if you got neighbors they don’t have shallow water sources supplying a family.

[wing_zealot]

winniman is correct. Although it"s possible to not have 2 chambers (the vast majority do), you must have the outlet baffle. A barrel with holes drilled in it does not have the outlet baffle. And if the holes are drilled all the way (or most of the way) to the bottom of the barrel, it's useless. What the OP has is a rusted and probably broken and dilapidated "used to be barrel" full of ****. Full being the operative word. No baffle, no standing water, no organisms to breakdown the solids in the OP's barrel, hence, the solids didn't breakdown.
What he had was an outhouse and just like the old timers did when the hole got full, it's now time to dig a new hole.

[DutchmenSport]

Actually there ARE 2 versions of septic tanks:

[Dave_H_M]

A septic system consists of a tank with two chambers

Hmmmm, if you gazed down into mine it is just one round tank. Way they are here, the regular ones that is.

[JRscooby]

winniman wrote:
Curious how the OP made out with his air compressor trick. Not well Im guessing. A barrel with holes in it is not a septic system. A septic system consists of a tank with two chambers, and a properly constructed field to disperse effluent in such a manner that bacteria has time to consume the organics BEFORE they reach the water table. No solids ever reach a properly designed septic field. You barrel is full of solidified ****. Its done. Dig a new one, or better yet, dump into a proper septic system.

Well, I planted more than a few tanks that just one chamber, and dug up many more. The 2 chamber deal is a fairly recent change, added because of dish washers and and home laundry. With a proper leach field, a plastic drum would be plenty big to dump a normal used RV tank...

[winniman]

Curious how the OP made out with his air compressor trick. Not well Im guessing. A barrel with holes in it is not a septic system. A septic system consists of a tank with two chambers, and a properly constructed field to disperse effluent in such a manner that bacteria has time to consume the organics BEFORE they reach the water table. No solids ever reach a properly designed septic field. You barrel is full of solidified ****. Its done. Dig a new one, or better yet, dump into a proper septic system.

[RJsfishin]

Why don't you dump in the same system as your house goes in. I been dumping in my home septic system for 14 years,.....never a problem.

[Gdetrailer]

wopachop wrote:
Worth a shot. It's not mine I'm just allowed to dump here.

Maybe like some suggested it rusted so bad it finally collapsed and filled with sand. That would explain while the volume degrease didnt seem to happen gradually.

StarTrek reference..

DARN* IT JIM, IT'S DEAD!

* Cleaned it a bit to get past the auto censor..

It IS done, nothing you can do now to fix it other than digging up the mess (yuck) or simply digging a NEW hole 20ft or so away from the existing mess and drop a couple of new barrels in that hole.

Air won't fix it, dumping voodoo fixes in it won't fix it, saying magic incantations on the correct night with a full moon won't fix it, it is simply full of solids that you will not want to deal with unless you have a strong stomach and a good respirator to boot.

You obviously do not own the land so you will need to ask permission to dig another fancy outhouse port.

Then to save a lot of grief, DO NOT DUMP SOLIDS IN IT!

Yep, unless you spring to build a REAL "septic" system with a proper tank and drain field you will need to restrict the dumping to GREY water (no solids or toilet paper).

Alternate method is to put in a PROPER HOLDING tank (IE NO HOLES), then at the end of season PAY the Honey Dipper to pump it out. Honey dippers in my area run $200 or so to pump out 1200 gallon septic systems so even a 500 gallon holding tank shouldn't cost that much to pump out at the end of season..

[B_O__Plenty]

DFord wrote:
Be sure to get a video of you doing that. It might just win a spot on America's Funniest Videos. Put a copy on YouTube and post a link to on here. I'd love to see it.

X2!!! I would pay to see this.

B.O.

[wopachop]

Worth a shot. It's not mine I'm just allowed to dump here.

Maybe like some suggested it rusted so bad it finally collapsed and filled with sand. That would explain while the volume degrease didnt seem to happen gradually.