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Converter problem?

palmerjp
Explorer
Explorer
My rv does not switch to battery when I disconnect from land power. it also does not work when I am driving the coach. There is a new battery and it is fully charged.
help please
17 REPLIES 17

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
palmerjp wrote:
Must be the relay as the battery is new. Where might I find this relay


Probably in Saskatchewan since that appears to be your location.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
palmerjp wrote:
Must be the relay as the battery is new. Where might I find this relay

What relay?

This is getting aggravating. :R

If you want help to correctly diagnose a problem you're having, at least give some good background information. A switch "clicks" but "no power" is not enough. Or maybe it is for you.


I quit, the OP has been told multiple times that more information is needed but refuses to give any info.

Some people are guessing but the fact is, none of us have any idea what the OP owns or is asking about.

However, based on the limited information given, I am absolutely convinced that the problem revolves around the muffler bearings and they must be replaced. :B
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

westend
Explorer
Explorer
palmerjp wrote:
Must be the relay as the battery is new. Where might I find this relay

What relay?

This is getting aggravating. :R

If you want help to correctly diagnose a problem you're having, at least give some good background information. A switch "clicks" but "no power" is not enough. Or maybe it is for you...
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

palmerjp
Explorer
Explorer
Must be the relay as the battery is new. Where might I find this relay

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
If you get the click, but still no battery power then
A: batteries are dead and I mean DEAD or
B: tripped breaker or blown fuse or
C: Bad wire or connection or battery connect solenoid.

Only options.. Likely B

Diagnosis procedure described in my last post.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
new Battery ? fully charged ? recently changed ?
no interior lights ? water pump quit working ?
everything worked before this ?
missing wire or wrong connection is the most likely possibility

or

do you mean, the 120v items and duplex receptacles ?

those don't work on 12v battery power
those work from shore power, or generator
or from an INVERTER attached to the batteries
an inverter is a device that uses battery power to make 120v power

and normally use to run the TV etc..
NOT the air conditioning or the MW, big power items need the generator, unless you invest big $$ in batteries and solar, and then you still need to recharge the batteries using the generator
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
palmerjp wrote:
When I use the switch I get a clicking sound but still no battery power.


What switch and what are you trying to power?

Answering the question already asked will allow us to help you. We are not mind readers and can only make wild guesses with no information.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
palmerjp wrote:
When I use the switch I get a clicking sound but still no battery power.
Clicking is good but no voltage likely means a bad solenoid. The contacts can get pited, etc.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
That sounds like a battery too weak to switch the relay, or a bad relay.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

palmerjp
Explorer
Explorer
When I use the switch I get a clicking sound but still no battery power.

CJW8
Explorer
Explorer
RV's don't "switch" to batteries. Batteries are on all the time unless disconnected either physically, or by disconnect switch or blown fuses.
2003 Forest River Sierra M-37SP Toy Hauler- Traded in
2015 Keystone Raptor 332TS 5th wheel toy Hauler (sold)
2004 Winnebago Vectra. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
In most cases the RV never "Switches" to battery power.. The one exception I know of is those RV's with a Magnetek 6300 and possibly a few other Magnetek converters.. They actually do SWITCH to battery.

Most modern RV's the battery is ALWAYS there.. it is in parallel with the converter which is what powers the lights et-al on Shore power.... But it also charges the battery.

However there are a few thigns that can prevent it from happening.

First.. Many, I dare say MoST Rv's have a switch somewhere... In my cast the actuall "Switch" is remoted, but the control switch is on a panel just inside the door. on the side of the step well.. This is a common location.

Other locations include the master "Control and sensor" panel, and on motor homes the dash.. Mine is labeled USE/STORE (Press USE and listen for a CLUNK, more on that later) some are AUX (And optionally a MAIN switch next to it, this is on Motor homes only) May be labeled BATTERY or DIsconnect on Trailers.

The clunk.. When I pressed STORE I heard the CLUNK,, but pressing USE did not clunk.. (Dirty switch.. I cleaned it the no-cost way and it hasd worked well ever since) The Clunk is the actual switch (SOlenoid) by the way.

Second... On the battery control center (Where the clunk-er lives) per the manufacturer there are supposed to be a pair of circuit breakers.. PUSH (HARD!!) TO reset type in the bottom of the box.. Mine was done differently but if those breakers are tripped.

Some RV's it is a fuse.

Tribble shooting (yes I'm a Star Trek fan) best tool is an automotove test light
This device, which you can find at many auto departments and every auto parts store looks like an ice pick, the handle is clear or translucent plastic,, there is a light bulb in the handle, and a wire with a clip that comes out of the handle.

Clip clip to battery NEGATIVE, touch battery positive,, BRIGHT LIGHT = Good battery
(Do this when not plugged in)

Move clip to any unpainted metal part of chassis/frame.. Still bright light. Good,, No light,, Check battery negative cable and also clip connection point.

Now move out along the positive cable,, Find where the other end of it connects,, Make sure you get a bright light.. This will be a device with two or 4 terminals, if it is 4 pay attention only to the two big ones (the other two are control power) and touch the 2nd big one. Still bright, keep following the wire.

Each time you move the clip re-check the last good point to make sure you have a good ground.

Problem exists between BRIGHT and DARK.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

ksg5000
Explorer
Explorer
Your converter is essentially a big battery charger - only works when it's plugged into shore power and sends power to your DC distribution system and your rigs house batteries. When you disconnect from shore power you converter no longer works.

Your problem isn't related to converter but the battery. They maybe dead or one of the fuses between the battery and the DC distribution panel maybe blown. Check the voltage on the battery or have the battery tested for free at any auto parts/tire outlet. Many rigs have an auto reset circuit breaker that sits near the house battery - when that goes toes up it essentially disconnects the battery from the rig - they are inexpensive. They don't look like normal fuse or breaker so use Google to get a pic. Lastly - many rigs have battery disconnect switches - some manual, some toggle, == make sure that those are set in the correct position.
Kevin

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
This sounds very much like the battery is not really connected.....due to a disconnect switch being in a wrong position or a loose connection or a blown fuse and the battery charger/converter is supplying the 12 V while plugged in.

NOW would be a good time to get a meter if you don't already have one.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"