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Converter Size Tactics Question

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
This will not be of concern to most, but may be of interest. I am not certain of my plan, so any comments welcomed.

The problem arose when I stuffed my 100amp PowerMax adjustable voltage (called a PMBC-100) converter/power supply in the old truck- camper to be its "converter" set at 13.8v when away from home. The locations for that camping have 15a 120v shore power connections on long wire. It usually all works great.

However, it happened that the power went out at one of those places in a wind storm (trees fell on lines) so by the time power was restored, the batts were down, and the converter kicked on (100amper although PF corrected) and so did everything else come on all at once, which popped the breaker up where the 15a shore power was coming from.

So, since around here that can happen again, I decided that the 100 amper is too much for this role, even when set at 13.8v. So I decided to get a 55amper instead. I think it (non-PF corrected) will pull fewer VA than the PF-corrected 100 amper --but not by much?)

So my choices are now--

A. Yank the 13.8 fixed voltage 7355 converter (lower portion) from the 5er and stick that in the TC, and use the PMBC-55 adjustable voltage as the 5er's new converter, or

B. Just put the new PowerMax 55amper PMBC in the TC, set at say, 13.8v (the "converter" set-up in the TC is portable, so I can still use it in the 5er or garage as required)

I just don't know if it would still pop a breaker up at the "pedestal" either way, where the 100amper did. (Some kind of surge with the high amps at first I figure, since it is rated for a 15a circuit)

At home on shore power, the TC just needs a battery maintainer, which can be my 2 amp 13.4v job, which works great, or any amps size of fixed voltage converter (I have used the adjustable voltage 100 amper for this too) but the 2amper is useless as a converter away from home, where as soon as you turn on a light (3 amps) it (2 amps) falls behind.

So I am looking at having a 55amp, fixed voltage "converter" for when on shore power away from home, but where it might get cut off once in a while, and I don't want to pop the "pedestal" breaker when power comes back on.

So, what would be the way to go? Thanks.

PS. I was also hoping to use the PMBC for its 16.5v to equalize my T-1275s, but I am told they have put a new board in those, which has a lower max voltage range to maybe 15.8v (Web-site specs to be updated on that)
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.
19 REPLIES 19

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Missed the 'adjustable' part. Why not use one of those Megawatt power supplies everyone keeps bragging on?

Possibly set the 55 amper to just 13.4 volts while doing float service.
(maybe more when it gets cold out)

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Smk, it may not be so "freakish" around here! I did look at other choices of regular lower amp converters, but was hoping to get that high voltage above 16v for my T-1275 equalizing as well. (Sadly, that is not to be, at 15.8 max now.)

I can still get more utility from the adjustable 55 amp PMBC swapping between the 5er and the TC than getting a regular converter of any brand. Eg I think I can use the 55 and the 100 together instead of the 40 VEC and the 100 with the Honda 3000, but it would be close.

It might not have even been the converter that did it, but the fridge going back to AC at the same time the converter came on. I just don't know.

I do know I need a better "converter" for being on 15a shore power on a long wire (low voltage) than the 2a 13.4 maintainer, that is only good at home, and the breaker popped with the 100 amper doing that job.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
Mark 12.5v on the 100 amp powermax potentiometer.

Turn it to that when the power goes out. Even if batteries are 12.2v when power comes back on, few amps will flow and not trip the 15 amp breaker.

Later, crank it up to you pre marked on the dial favorite absorption voltage and let those amps fly into those thirsty batteries.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
I never thought it would come to this...

One of the solar earliest adopters/bestest mentors/gurus/twirlers and experimental geniuses having to rely on a pedestal for battery charging, lol. :B

I'm sure you'll come up with the best solution for you, BFL, but I would think a low draw tender would be in the cards.

Good luck with whatever you choose and keep us informed.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
13.8? Why not just use the 7355? Generally I would change nothing just for a single freak event.

Otherwise I would have gone with PD4635 for less draw and better charging.