Diesel Fuel

[The_Works]

We started a 6 month work kamper job Mount Pleasant South Carolina. My question is, should I fill the 100 gallon fuel tank in our motorhome, half fill the tank or leave it as it is with 1/4 of fuel in the tank? Should I be concerned about condensation in the tank with a partially filled tank or be more concerned about a full tank of diesel fuel going bad (if that even happens)? Thanks for your input!!

[NinerBikes]

GoPackGo wrote:

NinerBikes wrote:

MudChucker wrote:

JimBollman wrote:

The Works wrote:
We started a 6 month work kamper job Mount Pleasant South Carolina.

He is going to be in SC, he doesn't need Winter treatment.

You are correct 'ish...

Winter additives are usually better at dealing with condensation and water in the tank.

The "deicing" additives in what could be called "winter formula" are the same additives that keep moisture out of your fuel tank, put it in suspension in the fuel, and allow all of it to go through your fuel system safely and out your tail pipe.

Just because it is labeled winter deicing formula does not mean that it is restricted to winter use only. Anyone in hot humid climates should run the stuff with their fuel from time to time to keep their fuel dry. And consider it preventative maintenance with a full tank of fuel if you put your RV into storage.

I've never heard of winter deicing formula diesel. It really sounds like you are describing winter blend gasoline.

Summer diesel is straight #2. Straight #2 diesel will start to jell when temperatures drop below about 20 degrees. Winter blend diesel is formulated to resist jelling when temps drop below the magic 20 degree mark, which is the point where wax will start to form and clog fuel filters - and stopping you dead in your tracks until your vehicle can be towed into a nice warm garage (ask me how I know).

There are two ways to formulate winter blend diesel - either add chemicals that lower the jell point or add a percentage of #1 diesel (#1 resists jelling to much lower temps). The 'mix' changes as the calendar moves farther into the winter season - less chemicals or #1 in Nov/Dec and more in Jan/Feb. In my experience, cutting #2 diesel with #1 works much better then going the chemicals route.

#1 diesel has far less lubrication qualities then does #2 and also less BTUs (less power and MPG). Keep in mind that your REALLY expensive engine high pressure fuel pump is lubricated only by diesel fuel and you'll understand why it's not a good idea to run #1 diesel in the summer.

** On edit - I've read this about 3 times and I now see that the above post is more about additives then the fuel itself. I think if the tank is full, then there will be no condensation problem. If there is, it will settle to the bottom and you can then drain it from your filters. Pleasure boaters with large diesel tanks in their boats store fuel over the winter and then go merrily on their way in the spring with no problems. Just not a big deal. If we were discussing ethanol based gasoline (ethanol will attract water). I would definitely recommend some type of additive. My comments regarding summer and winter blend diesel are still valid.

Deicing formula does three things... it lowers the gel point and waxing point of D2, which is normally set at around 7F to 10F for waxing. The deicing portion takes any moisture/water in your fuel,that collects on your fuel filter, that below 32f, the water would freeze up and gum up your fuel filter from flowing diesel fuel, with ice particles. It puts the moisture in suspension of the fuel with a much lower freezing point for the water/additive blend held in suspension. This prevents your fuel filter from icing up and clogging with water, below 32F. All diesel fuel holds some water in suspension, it's just that additive allows it to hold more, or a larger %, and allows it to pass through your fuel system in freezing weather without clogging or damaging your fuel system.

There's a reason there a heaters in your fuel filter system. Not all diesel fuel systems have water drains in the bottom of them. Most do, but on sedans and SUV versions, there is no drain. Hence when your fuel filter gets changed out, the canister needs to be drained dry with a turkey baster, to suck all the moisture out of the bottom of the fuel filter canister.

[GoPackGo]

NinerBikes wrote:

MudChucker wrote:

JimBollman wrote:

The Works wrote:
We started a 6 month work kamper job Mount Pleasant South Carolina.

He is going to be in SC, he doesn't need Winter treatment.

You are correct 'ish...

Winter additives are usually better at dealing with condensation and water in the tank.

The "deicing" additives in what could be called "winter formula" are the same additives that keep moisture out of your fuel tank, put it in suspension in the fuel, and allow all of it to go through your fuel system safely and out your tail pipe.

Just because it is labeled winter deicing formula does not mean that it is restricted to winter use only. Anyone in hot humid climates should run the stuff with their fuel from time to time to keep their fuel dry. And consider it preventative maintenance with a full tank of fuel if you put your RV into storage.

I've never heard of winter deicing formula diesel. It really sounds like you are describing winter blend gasoline.

Summer diesel is straight #2. Straight #2 diesel will start to jell when temperatures drop below about 20 degrees. Winter blend diesel is formulated to resist jelling when temps drop below the magic 20 degree mark, which is the point where wax will start to form and clog fuel filters - and stopping you dead in your tracks until your vehicle can be towed into a nice warm garage (ask me how I know).

There are two ways to formulate winter blend diesel - either add chemicals that lower the jell point or add a percentage of #1 diesel (#1 resists jelling to much lower temps). The 'mix' changes as the calendar moves farther into the winter season - less chemicals or #1 in Nov/Dec and more in Jan/Feb. In my experience, cutting #2 diesel with #1 works much better then going the chemicals route.

#1 diesel has far less lubrication qualities then does #2 and also less BTUs (less power and MPG). Keep in mind that your REALLY expensive engine high pressure fuel pump is lubricated only by diesel fuel and you'll understand why it's not a good idea to run #1 diesel in the summer.

** On edit - I've read this about 3 times and I now see that the above post is more about additives then the fuel itself. I think if the tank is full, then there will be no condensation problem. If there is, it will settle to the bottom and you can then drain it from your filters. Pleasure boaters with large diesel tanks in their boats store fuel over the winter and then go merrily on their way in the spring with no problems. Just not a big deal. If we were discussing ethanol based gasoline (ethanol will attract water). I would definitely recommend some type of additive. My comments regarding summer and winter blend diesel are still valid.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

My gen shed uses a "day tank" of 15 gallons capacity with sight glass. The bottom of the tank is an inverted pyramid with babcock valve drain. From there it goes into a LuberFiner C-750L filter which is normally used for bypass lube oil filtration. It filters to 10-microns. From there it continues to gravitate to a RAcor fuel water separator with s-series 1-micron element. I have a "T" tap there for fueling the lomborgini air cooled diesel DC generator. The day tank is maintained 100% re-filled after every use. The LuberFiner catches most of the crud while the settling tank dierts a vast majority of condensation and contamination. Getting a pump properly rebuilt down here is almost impossible.

[SaltiDawg]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I like to see the slimy snot slopping in the transparent settling bowl of my RAcor filter. A twist of the wrist and adios booger-water.

Back in the day we stored Diesel Fuel in large tanks that were open to the sea. The tanks were always full, with a combination of sea water and diesel fuel.

As we used fuel it was replaced in the tank with sea water.

We were very conscious about properly removing any sea water contamination prior to storing it in a pure fuel tank near the diesel engine(s).

Filters and centrifuges were critical.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I like to see the slimy snot slopping in the transparent settling bowl of my RAcor filter. A twist of the wrist and adios booger-water.

[fj12ryder]

I figure putting in $7 worth of additive once a year is pretty cheap insurance. I've not done it with no issues, but for $7, what the heck.

[NinerBikes]

MudChucker wrote:

JimBollman wrote:

The Works wrote:
We started a 6 month work kamper job Mount Pleasant South Carolina.

He is going to be in SC, he doesn't need Winter treatment.

You are correct 'ish...

Winter additives are usually better at dealing with condensation and water in the tank.

The "deicing" additives in what could be called "winter formula" are the same additives that keep moisture out of your fuel tank, put it in suspension in the fuel, and allow all of it to go through your fuel system safely and out your tail pipe.

Just because it is labeled winter deicing formula does not mean that it is restricted to winter use only. Anyone in hot humid climates should run the stuff with their fuel from time to time to keep their fuel dry. And consider it preventative maintenance with a full tank of fuel if you put your RV into storage.

[Tom_Barb]

MudChucker wrote:
jeebuz, I cant believe the "facts" that some are pulling out of their hats here.

Just stop, seriously, I have never seen the internet provide so much bad advice as I have in this thread.

even if the odds are 50/50, a few minutes to fill a fuel tank and add 15 dollars worth of additives could save the OP thousands of dollars.

I guess that you pay that for a filter and a tank of fuel??

Worse case, that is all you'll need.

When we bought the Newmar it had been in storage 9 years with out preservation. When we went to get it out of storage, it took 2 days to change the engine oil and filter, remove and replace all 6 tires, and the fuel filter. then it started up and ran like new. we never changed the fuel. I had 1/8th of a tank full that sat 9 years it was still good.

[Dave_H_M]

The Works, So now what are you gonna do with the can of worms you opened up here.

I ran a rattler for 13 years with an in bed aux tank. The aux would set empty for months each year. i never had a prob with water/never a WIF light. :h

Just an odd ball thought. if you fill up it will probably be summer blend. So if you take off for the great white north and it is COLD you might consider throwing in some anti gel to get you down the road until you start buying winter blend.

What part of SC are you gonna enjoy the winter in. It can get pretty nippy in the mountains.

[MudChucker]

JimBollman wrote:

The Works wrote:
We started a 6 month work kamper job Mount Pleasant South Carolina.

He is going to be in SC, he doesn't need Winter treatment.

You are correct 'ish...

Winter additives are usually better at dealing with condensation and water in the tank.

[MudChucker]

jeebuz, I cant believe the "facts" that some are pulling out of their hats here.

Just stop, seriously, I have never seen the internet provide so much bad advice as I have in this thread.

even if the odds are 50/50, a few minutes to fill a fuel tank and add 15 dollars worth of additives could save the OP thousands of dollars.

[JimBollman]

The Works wrote:
We started a 6 month work kamper job Mount Pleasant South Carolina.

He is going to be in SC, he doesn't need Winter treatment.

[Bionic_Man]

MudChucker wrote:


Fill the tank. Treat with winter fuel treatment.

This is what I would do (or actually do). I rarely drive my truck from November - March. I fill the tank, add winter fuel treatment so it does not gel should I need to drive it, and let it sleep in the garage until it is time to use again.

[Tom_Barb]

wolfe10 wrote:
Totally agree. If something is going to grow in the tank, it did come from an external source.

But, not that hard to imagine that at least ONE station you fueled up over the last year or two DID have a contamination issue.

Algae in todays diesel fuel is extremely rare. If you are fueling from pumps that have no filtration, in my humble opinion you probably deserve what you get.

The black yuckey stuff we see in fuel filters is often mistaken as algae but in reality is tar. caused by fuel separation from long term storage.

But as mentioned by the OP his fuel isn't going to be stored that long.