dometic dm2652rbx refrigerator- cooling in travel mode

[addacrash]

Good afternoon- I have had an annoyance with my Dometic DM2652rbx refrigerator. My fridge only cools while connected to shorepower or by propane. While travelling, my only source to cool the fridge is propane. Which on mountain roads or heavy wind, seems to every once in a while snuffs the flame and my family in the cabin smells propane. So if I turn the propane off at the cylinder, this smell in the cabin does not occur. However, my fridge does not cool.

Am I missing something as to why my fridge does not work on batteries or alternator while in travel!?

I have attempted to ask RV dealers, but their best answer is to run the generator while travelling, which left me dumb founded...

Is it possible to use batteries with this fridge while in travel? If so, how can I go about doing so?

Thanks for all direction I may receive. I just cant believe propane is my only option while in travel!

[addacrash]

pianotuna wrote:

addacrash wrote:

Thank you again Doug.

My list...
Baffles
inverter
solar

This should quell my issue! Thanks again 😉

Be aware that the duty cycle for an absorption fridge is 2:3.

Mine uses 5.7 KWH per day (measured by a kill-a-watt meter), so it takes a fairly massive solar installation to power it on 120 volts.

Inverters are about 88% efficient (best case)

5.7 / .88 =~6.48 kwh needed per day

6.48/5 (usual guess for number of hours of production per day) = 1296 watts of panels.

Then you will need yet more solar to provide for your other power needs.

There may not be room on the roof for such a large solar array.

Don't get me wrong--I think solar is wonderful. But absorption fridges are, and always will be, power hogs.

1300 watts of solar would easily run a residential fridge.

awesome info! Thanks

[pianotuna]

addacrash wrote:

Thank you again Doug.

My list...
Baffles
inverter
solar

This should quell my issue! Thanks again 😉

Be aware that the duty cycle for an absorption fridge is 2:3.

Mine uses 5.7 KWH per day (measured by a kill-a-watt meter), so it takes a fairly massive solar installation to power it on 120 volts.

Inverters are about 88% efficient (best case)

5.7 / .88 =~6.48 kwh needed per day

6.48/5 (usual guess for number of hours of production per day) = 1296 watts of panels.

Then you will need yet more solar to provide for your other power needs.

There may not be room on the roof for such a large solar array.

Don't get me wrong--I think solar is wonderful. But absorption fridges are, and always will be, power hogs.

1300 watts of solar would easily run a residential fridge.

[addacrash]

dougrainer wrote:
The 12 volt maintainer is NOT an add on. The refer must be built for 3 way operation. Doug

Thank you again Doug.

My list...
Baffles
inverter
solar

This should quell my issue! Thanks again 😉

[addacrash]

2oldman wrote:

addacrash wrote:
There is too much differing opinions out there. Half say travel with the propane off due to possibility of accident, etc etc.

We've been through this argument hundreds of times on here, and it simply boils down to.. do what you feel comfortable with.

I met a couple yesterday who still won't buy anything online because of fears of CC fraud. So people are still highly emotional beings.

On that note... My next question will be ford vs. chevy vs. dodge!

I AM KIDDING!!

[2oldman]

addacrash wrote:
There is too much differing opinions out there. Half say travel with the propane off due to possibility of accident, etc etc.

We've been through this argument hundreds of times on here, and it simply boils down to.. do what you feel comfortable with.

I met a couple yesterday who still won't buy anything online because of fears of CC fraud. So people are still highly emotional beings.

[dougrainer]

The 12 volt maintainer is NOT an add on. The refer must be built for 3 way operation. Doug

[addacrash]

dougrainer wrote:
1. They are designed to run on LP while in transit
2. IF you have a blow out problem, there are kits and fixes for that problem
3. You should NEVER smell LP inside if the flame goes out. The LP is shut OFF after the flame blows out. BUT, If the flame blows out, the refer will AUTO relite.
4. If you smell LP you need a Manometer test to confirm there are NO LP leaks in the LP system
5. They do make 3 way RV refers. But, they are very rare. The 3rd way is a 12 volt Heating Element that runs when the engine is ON to supply enough 12 volt current to run the 12 volt element. This is a Maintainer that only keeps the refer at the cold you started out at. It is not designed to cool the refer down.
6. You can install a 1000 or larger Watt Inverter to run the refer on 120 while in transit. The 120 element pulls about 350 watts, but I believe if you go the Inverter route to go at least 1000 watts or higher.
7. You are talking to the wrong people at RV dealerships. If this is the best answers you have received, I would AVOID those dealers for my service work and advice. Doug

Doug,

Id like to thank you for all the good info!
I will look into the baffles as you and others mentioned!

3&4- Im not having any depletion of propane. There is no notice of propane outside of the events during travel. We just finished a week long camp at my in-laws property with propane turned on, used for boiling water for morning coffee and that was about it, on shore power. Started with 1/2 tank of propane, ended with 1/2 tank. So I think I am safe regarding any substantial leak.

5-6- I'm looking into solar, and will look into the inverter. And maintainer!

Again, thanks for the info! There is too much differing opinions out there. Half say travel with the propane off due to possibility of accident, etc etc.

7- yes I fully agree!! I almost couldnt stop shaking my head, that that was their best answer...

[stickdog]

If you have a generator why not run it while traveling. Many do to run the roof AC.

[dougrainer]

1. They are designed to run on LP while in transit
2. IF you have a blow out problem, there are kits and fixes for that problem
3. You should NEVER smell LP inside if the flame goes out. The LP is shut OFF after the flame blows out. BUT, If the flame blows out, the refer will AUTO relite.
4. If you smell LP you need a Manometer test to confirm there are NO LP leaks in the LP system
5. They do make 3 way RV refers. But, they are very rare. The 3rd way is a 12 volt Heating Element that runs when the engine is ON to supply enough 12 volt current to run the 12 volt element. This is a Maintainer that only keeps the refer at the cold you started out at. It is not designed to cool the refer down.
6. You can install a 1000 or larger Watt Inverter to run the refer on 120 while in transit. The 120 element pulls about 350 watts, but I believe if you go the Inverter route to go at least 1000 watts or higher.
7. You are talking to the wrong people at RV dealerships. If this is the best answers you have received, I would AVOID those dealers for my service work and advice. Doug

[GordonThree]

Smelling propane inside the motorhome while traveling down the road? I'd schedule service ASAP and discontinue use of the propane system.

[CA_Traveler]

2oldman wrote:
You'll need an inverter.

Converts 12V DC to 120V AC and for every AC amp needed you'll need 11A DC. So 33A DC for a 3A AC load. Is your alternator up to the task?

[CA_Traveler]

2oldman wrote:
You'll need an inverter.

Converts 12V DC to 120V AC and for every AC amp needed you'll need 11A DC. So 33A DC for a 3A AC load. Is your alternator up to the task?

[pianotuna]

The baffle works well. Since 2009 I've only had one "blow out".

[bob213]

make a wind baffle to block the wind and protect the flame. I think there was a recall and a baffle was a part of the fix.