Dometic Dm2852 eyebrow board bypass info needed

[etki84]

Can anyone tell me how to bypass the 6 pin connector on the eyebrow board on a Dometic Dm2852 to make it run on ac power. I am helping a buddy that just bought an rv and he was told that it will only run on lpg. He took the board off when trying to trouble shoot it and the board got thrown away. I want to test the unit before spending money on a new board. I tested the wires and we have power going to the board. I don't think the 12 volt is hooked up to the fridge as well.

[MrWizard]

Traveler
Plugging the fridge into the designated outlet in the compartment , simply turn off the circuit breaker in the breaker panel to turn off the fridgr, or just unplug it from the outlet,
It not being hardwired , just direct without control board ,. Method had been advocated many times for testing fridge operation, snd trouble shooting

[dougrainer]

Connect the 2 120 leads from the 120 element to a 120 extension cord. You will know in less than 5 minutes if the element gets HOT. If not, then the element is bad. Doug

[etki84]

enblethen wrote:
OP didn't respond as to what got thrown away.
***Link Removed***

yes the eyebrow board got thrown away. I talked to him today and originally the fridge would only run on propane, the rv shop told him it was the lower board so he replaced that and i didn't fix the problem.

[enblethen]

OP didn't respond as to what got thrown away.
Eyebrow

[dougrainer]

enblethen wrote:
Had to replace my old clamp-on meter. I purchased this one. Easier to use then old Amprobe brand.AC/DC clamp-on
I doubt eyebrow is problem.

I think he meant they threw away the Eyebrow board? So, they need to jump the wires on the eyebrow connector? Doug

[enblethen]

Had to replace my old clamp-on meter. I purchased this one. Easier to use then old Amprobe brand.AC/DC clamp-on
I doubt eyebrow is problem.

[CA_Traveler]

Connect AC to the board and measure the amp draw. If none then connect directly to the heating coil. If still none replace the heating coil. I would not leave it connected since there is no way for the AC to be truned off. Also with the AC ground wire connected plug into a GFCI and make sure there is NO coil connection to ground. And a working coil does not mean the refer will cool as there are many other potential problems but it's a start. And turn on DC as needed for the board.

I've often recommended that RV owners buy, beg, borrow or steal (just kidding) a clampon ammeter. Be sure it will measure DC amps as the typical electrician clampon has no use for DC testing, but every RV or auto could. Also suggest 150A+ DC capability as some devices like a MW draw a lot of DC amps from an inverter. And inverter means exactly that 12VDC to 120VAC. The cost for a very usable clampon ammeter is well south of $100 and is pocket change compared to holding up a credit card. :B

[dougrainer]

I don't think there is a way other than trial and error to jump the wires going to the eyebrow board. in 40 years, I NEVER had to worry about jumping any type refer eyebrow board. Doug

[etki84]

MrWizard wrote:
Disconnect and the 120v cord from the board
Disconnect the 120v heating element leads from the board, connect heater leads to cord, plug cord into the fridge compartment outlet ,
It is now direct wired and will cool to maximize capability, will never cycle off as long as trailer has 120v

will try this, thanks

[etki84]

wolfe10 wrote:
The board "runs" on 12VDC, whether on propane or 120 VAC.

No 12VDC and it will NOT work on either heat source.

copy, I will make sure to hook up 12 vdc to the back of the fridge. I read that in the manual but when i tested the plug it had dc voltage on it so i figured there many have been a converter somewhere

[etki84]

enblethen wrote:
OP you said you have power to board but also said it got thrown away. Which is it?
You could apply power directly to the 120-volt element. It should start cooling the refer if it is good.
Good chance that the 120-volt relay on board has or had failed.

I tested the plug that plugs into the eyebrow board, that is how i know there is power coming from the bottom board to the top, the bottom board is new. from what i can tell the top board is a simple two button board with just two led lights. There should be a way to jump the top plug to make the unit come on.

[MrWizard]

Disconnect and the 120v cord from the board
Disconnect the 120v heating element leads from the board, connect heater leads to cord, plug cord into the fridge compartment outlet ,
It is now direct wired and will cool to maximize capability, will never cycle off as long as trailer has 120v

[enblethen]

OP you said you have power to board but also said it got thrown away. Which is it?
You could apply power directly to the 120-volt element. It should start cooling the refer if it is good.
Good chance that the 120-volt relay on board has or had failed.

[wolfe10]

The board "runs" on 12VDC, whether on propane or 120 VAC.

No 12VDC and it will NOT work on either heat source.