Dry Camping Shower Valve Replacement

[KendallP]

Hey gang,

The rig has your basic turn-counter-clockwise on to cold, further to warm, then hot. No flow rate adjustment.

Specs say the valve is a Moen 62300

With a handle like this.

It's not terrible for hookups, where you can just run the thing full bore until you're done. But it's basically about as bad as you can get for dry camping.

Any thoughts on a relatively easy replacement?

If I had my druthers, I would probably want some version of this Delta, like we have at home. Turn the temp dial all the way to hot until the hot water makes it to the valve. Then dial it in. Then from there you can turn it off while you lather up. Then back on with controlled flow... at your dialed-in temp... to rinse... and repeat as necessary until done.

Here's the valve it uses

But I'm definitely open to other suggestions. Even your classic Delta would work a lot better than what's there. One would just need to try and nail the temp again each time when turning it back on. But at least you could control the flow.

[dedmiston]

Yang07 wrote:
The steps to ***Link Removed***. {SNIP}

Spammer. Sorry we didn't catch this sooner.

[KendallP]

Gjac wrote:
If you just turn on hot water valve how does cold water enter?

Mine has a single valve. You turn it a little ways counterclockwise for cold and further counterclockwise for warm and further for hot.

Then all the way back clockwise to shut it off.

I see these in some hotels and coin operated showers at marinas. I'm guessing they're relatively inexpensive and require a little less maintenance.

I'm not a fan.

That said... For dry camping without a single shutoff at the shower head, dual valves are about as bad. Yes, you can control the flow. But if you want to shut off the water, you'll have to figure out the desired temp again when you turn it back on. At least with a single dial valve you can approximate where you had the dial turned to prior to shutting it off.

Again... both are equally bad when it comes to water conservation.

[Gjac]

KendallP wrote:

Gjac wrote:
A much simpler way to use less water and not get cold water when adjusting the shower temperature is to just turn WH on for 15 mins(in summer) and use just the hot water to shower. There is no mixing required. In fall when temps are cooler I run it for 20 mins then shut it off. On very hot 90 plus summer days and long hot blacktop hiways travel water temps are warmer in FW tank than in insulated WH tank and I just shower with lukewarm water. For me FW is more limiting than battery power when dry camping.

That might work with a 2 dial valve assembly, but mine cycles back to cold when you turn it on and vice versa.

And agreed. I bring along a DW and 2 daughters. FW is our biggest limiting factor for dry camping by a hefty margin.

If you just turn on hot water valve how does cold water enter?

[KendallP]

Gjac wrote:
A much simpler way to use less water and not get cold water when adjusting the shower temperature is to just turn WH on for 15 mins(in summer) and use just the hot water to shower. There is no mixing required. In fall when temps are cooler I run it for 20 mins then shut it off. On very hot 90 plus summer days and long hot blacktop hiways travel water temps are warmer in FW tank than in insulated WH tank and I just shower with lukewarm water. For me FW is more limiting than battery power when dry camping.

That might work with a 2 dial valve assembly, but mine cycles back to cold when you turn it on and vice versa.

And agreed. I bring along a DW and 2 daughters. FW is our biggest limiting factor for dry camping by a hefty margin.

[Gjac]

A much simpler way to use less water and not get cold water when adjusting the shower temperature is to just turn WH on for 15 mins(in summer) and use just the hot water to shower. There is no mixing required. In fall when temps are cooler I run it for 20 mins then shut it off. On very hot 90 plus summer days and long hot blacktop hiways travel water temps are warmer in FW tank than in insulated WH tank and I just shower with lukewarm water. For me FW is more limiting than battery power when dry camping.

[KendallP]

Thanks!

I ended up getting this one that wa8yxm had posted. I really like the way it operates.

I had the opportunity to test it on an unplanned trip the last few days. I ran into an unexpected oddity that I still can't explain...

Once the temp is dialed in, I rinsed off as planned and closed the valve. Within a minute or so I opened the valve and was greeted with cold water. This problem repeated the next day. But then my recollection is it didn't occur on the final rinse.

I fail to understand how this can happen. The main valve was untouched. And I can't imagine the water in the shower head hose chilling down in one minute. The ambient temp was at least 65.

[KendallP]

Thanks!

[hypoxia]

Similar to WA8YXM I added this Danco Shut Off Valve

[KendallP]

JimK-NY wrote:
I would not want to tackle changing the main valve and an additional flow restrictor seems the best solution. Certainly it is simple and beats having a plumber do the work.

You might want to look at replacing the shower head but the Oxygenics is not the way I would go. Look at the specs. It is designed to operate with a flow of at least 1 gallon/minute. When water conservation is needed I do an entire shower with 1 gallon. Good luck trying to get by with less than 3-5 gallons for a shower with the Oxygenics.

I like the way you think.

A quick search yielded this thread where most touted the Oxygenics as a good boondocker. But "good" might mean that gallon a minute you mentioned. When half would better.

One guy does mention that he chokes his down to a trickle, though.

I'm thinking of starting a separate thread since it's been determined that I was on the wrong path.

I need a good, low flow shower head with a smooth, variable valve on a hose. Though I'm sure I can use the current hose.

[JimK-NY]

I would not want to tackle changing the main valve and an additional flow restrictor seems the best solution. Certainly it is simple and beats having a plumber do the work.

You might want to look at replacing the shower head but the Oxygenics is not the way I would go. Look at the specs. It is designed to operate with a flow of at least 1 gallon/minute. When water conservation is needed I do an entire shower with 1 gallon. Good luck trying to get by with less than 3-5 gallons for a shower with the Oxygenics.

[afidel]

Add an Oxygenics shower head with integrated push button shutoff. You'll use less water even when it's running but still have good pressure and have the ability to shut the flow off for Navy type showers. It's the one piece I transferred from my last trailer to this one because I knew if I hadn't I'd just end up buying another one 😃

[KendallP]

Some great ideas here, guys.

I think the Ockham's version is the way to go for now. For 11 bucks or whatever... I'll start by trying out one of wa8's valves and see how it is to control the flow.

Thanks!

[wa8yxm]

Ranger Smith wrote:
Just put a shower head on it with hose and a shutoff

Or add a cut off valve to your current hose
Amazon

Wall * Mart

HOME DEPOT

Quick google search. I got mine at Mennards.

[ktmrfs]

here is IMHO the perfect RV shower valve solution. Water temp always set at what you want and keeps it that way, other valve controls flow

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077N39HKC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the one shown, others like it are on amazon and ebay. A pretty easy replacement for a typical trailer shower faucet.