Electric awning slow, now dead - '16 Summerland 2570RL

[EstorilM]

Hey everyone - ready for "the season" but the only thing that's really on the squawk list this spring is the awning.

It had only worked "fast" (loud motor noise, in and out very quickly) a few times when I got it. It started working about half speed from then on. This unit has the touch-screen remote or the wall mounted switch - occasionally the wall switch or touch screen would work at full speed.

Last fall I went to retract the awning, and the motor barely moved it in - then it stopped working completely. Had to use a ratchet (didn't have an electric drill!!!) which took foreverrrrrrr.

I can see the control board at the front pass-thru storage area, with a bunch of relays on it. I believe this is only for the remote, as the relay clicks when I activate the awning.

I have a pretty extensive electrical diagnostic and repair / mfg background - I've just got large inaccessible gaps in the wiring that I'm not sure about here - figured I'd ask the board before I dive in.

For now my approach is going to be getting a power source (jump box etc) and applying power at the awning motor itself. If that works, I'll do the same at the wall switch and the remote relay board. If those work fine, then I've got a power supply problem to both circuits. Since neither work, I'd put my money on this as being a source of the problem anyways (or the motor itself, but that's unlikely for a new unit with hardly any use).

What do you all think?

[myredracer]

I had one wire that just fell out of a crimp connector when all I did was touch it, pffft.

The awning reverses direction by simply reversing the polarity the switch sends to it. If you pull the switch off the wall, you'll find 2 incoming wires - one is pos. and other is neg. If you measure the voltage there, do it with motor not running (open circuit voltage) and with motor running. If it dips a lot while motor is running, there's a bad connection downstream of the switch.

Poor ground connections often cause problems. That can be a challenge to track down, depending on where connections/splices are. If it is a bad ground somewhere, you might be able tie into a nearby ground wire if possible instead.

If voltage at the switch is good, then the motor is the likely cause (or connection at it). You could test for presence of 12 volts at the motor terminals too.

[dougrainer]

You are overthinking the system. The AWNING itself does NOT have a remote control system. The remote system is for the awning and other systems in your RV. The awning is a simple motor. 12 volts. You push the switch and the switch sends polarity one way and the motor extends. Push the switch the opposite and the polarity is reversed to run the awning to retract. Your initial thought is correct. You just connect 12 volts to the motor wires and see if it extends and retracts. IF it does, then go back to the remote control Circuit Board. There should be various fuses and one will be for the awning. If it does NOT go in and out wired direct, then the motor is bad. Doug

[EstorilM]

myredracer wrote:
I'd suspect a poor connection somewhere right off the top. You *could* measure the voltage as you suggest and it may show okay but with the motor running with full load amps, a poor connection may have enough resistance to prevent the motor from running properly, it at all.

Improperly done factory crimp connections are not uncommon.

Testing with 12 volts directly at the motor or at the switch is a good diagnostic check and is probably what I'd be doing. Pulling the switch out is easy so probably a good place to start.

Okay thanks for the reply - I guess I need to get my hands on a wiring diagram for this thing, there seems to be a receiver box somewhere (guessing that's what controls extension/retraction and switching polarity for the motor?)

If I wanted to check the motor directly like you said, I can just pick a polarity and give it a shot? I don't recall if it's two wires going into the side of the TT wall, but I believe so.

Bad/loose/corroded crimp connector wouldn't surprise me one bit. :M

[myredracer]

I'd suspect a poor connection somewhere right off the top. You *could* measure the voltage as you suggest and it may show okay but with the motor running with full load amps, a poor connection may have enough resistance to prevent the motor from running properly, it at all.

Improperly done factory crimp connections are not uncommon.

Testing with 12 volts directly at the motor or at the switch is a good diagnostic check and is probably what I'd be doing. Pulling the switch out is easy so probably a good place to start.