Electric hot water heater not working

[WNC]

I typically keep my electric water heater on while camping so I can have hot water whenever it is needed. Today mid-day I went to wash some dishes off in the sink and the water was not warm. The switch on the control panel is lit still. I checked the fuse panel and none were blown. Gas water heater still works, so I am using it now. Would like some trouble shooting tips on diagnosing the issue on the electrical heater. Camper is still under warranty, but I would like to avoid another trip to the dealer and being without my rig for another 6-8 weeks while they sit on it, if possible.

[Old-Biscuit]

doxiemom11 wrote:
First thing I would check is to make sure that the inside shower is shut off with the faucets and not just a control on a handheld shower head, or that an outdoor shower or auxiliary water is completely shut off. Has happened to us when DH thought he shut them off, he hadn't. I had cold to barely luke warm water in the kitchen.

That can happen but not for just one heat source.

OP has no hot when electric on and HOT when propane on ----electric no workie

[doxiemom11]

First thing I would check is to make sure that the inside shower is shut off with the faucets and not just a control on a handheld shower head, or that an outdoor shower or auxiliary water is completely shut off. Has happened to us when DH thought he shut them off, he hadn't. I had cold to barely luke warm water in the kitchen.

[Old-Biscuit]

WNC wrote:
Thanks. I'll get the voltmeter out.

One think to check is the ECO connections (RED Wires)

When using Electric the ECO is still in the control circuit
On propane 12V DC goes to/thru ECO to gas valve solenoids to open gas valve.
On electric---millivolts go to/thru ECO and to gas valve then to ground
Millivots used to confirm ECO circuit and allow ECO to function/shut down heating on Hi Temp Trip (180*F)

Circuit Board doesn't sense the millivolt circuit then NO electric heating
Propane can still function cause 12V DC is used

SO if ECO/Gas Valve terminals are dirty/corroded/loose etc it doesn't take MUCH resistance to stop millivolts (High resistance can stop 12V DC also---but your propane is working)

Just something to check if no 12V DC on YELLOW wire...but have DC on WHITE wire

[WNC]

Thanks. I'll get the voltmeter out.

[Old-Biscuit]

Starcraft uses Atwood

So with propane side working you can rule out MAIN DC Fuse,'thermal fuse', t-stat & ECO cause both heat sources use same items

So check the 120V AC circuit breaker for your electric element power (CB in MAIN AC Panel) and see if it tripped.

Otherwise you need a voltmeter to check components
DC Voltage goes to the Dual Switch ON/OFF panel
DC for electric then goes to circuit board via WHITE wire (use voltmeter to check that you have 12V DC at connector on circuit board with Electric Switch ON

Then have to check that you have 12V DC coming out of connector on YELLOW wire with electric switch ON AND water temp below 110*F so 'heating' circuit is active.

Then you would need to check that electric element is getting 120V AC---have to remove cover on backside of water heater inside the RV.
DC Relay and element under that cover

DC Relay feed from YELLOW wire (cold water temp) and triggers 120V AC to element

AC wires from relay could be bad
Element could be burnt/shorted
Electric ON/OFF Switch could be bad
DC at/from circuit board could have bad connections/dirty contacts
Electric circuit on circuit board could be bad



Voltmeter and trace DC and AC voltages

[rk911]

brand and model?