Electrical problem

[jornvango]

We have an electrical problem and I know almost nothing about electricity, so here it goes with my description of what's happening.

We're staying at Freedom Shores in Isla Aguada, Mexico. Yesterday, when we arrived, I plugged the RV into shore power (15 amp). Everything in the RV ok: microwave came on, fridge switched to AC, phone started charging.

Ten minutes later, I go inside the RV and notice the microwave being off. The rest (fridge, phone charging) still ok and on electric. Strange.
I find my multimeter and test the 15 amp campground outlet: around 230 V! I unplugged shore power and found a different campground outlet that shows around 110 V to plug into.

What is the current situation?
- microwave 'dead' (and apparently the microwave fuse is built-in, so I don't know how to check if that's the issue)
- fridge on AC (not on gas, which it's on when we're not plugged in)
- outlets in RV working (to charge phone)
- fan and AC in RV working
- I checked the RV battery with my multimeter and in early afternoon it showed 12.70 V; in late evening 12.69 V
- I reset all the breakers in the RV: nothing changed.
- I also visually checked the RV fuses: nothing looks burned.

Any idea what is wrong?
Being in Mexico limits the availability of parts or experienced RV electricians, added up with my limited Spanish knowledge ...
Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Jorn

[BFL13]

The charging cables on the portable gen will work, but slowly at 8 amps plus it is "dirty" DC and voltage can get too high which is bad for the fridge controls and some other delicate 12v things. IMO only use that with battery disconnect open, but that leaves you no 12v in the rig for that time.

Yes, the 7-pin charging will still work as that has nothing to do with the converter. You can also use jumper cables from your tow vehicle engine battery to the trailer battery and leave the vehicle engine running for an hour.

12v things still run on "electrical" where your battery is supplying the electrical. As you see its voltage is going down. Once it reaches 12.2v you need to recharge it, so you are on the clock to get a battery charger. You need one with higher amps so choose a 20amper not a 2 amper. (Watch out for the engine start amps they show, like 75/20/6/2 where the 75 is only a burst to start an engine, but the 20 is the real number you want for battery charging amount)

I don't have PD converter but many here do who can help with trouble shooting that model....

[2oldman]

jornvango wrote:
After I reconnected the negative cable to the battery, I re-tested the battery and it's showing 12.67 V.Good news for the converter?

No.

[jornvango]

TucsonJim wrote:


The converter is "probably" not functioning now. As BFL13 noted, you should be around 13-1/2 volts at the battery with the rig plugged into shore power and the batteries charged up. One way you can be 100% certain about your converter output is to remove the negative battery cable from the battery. Then, check the voltage from the negative battery cable and the positive battery cable (still attached to the battery). If there is no voltage, then the converter is not working.

I removed the negative cable from the battery. I used the multimeter and checked the unconnected negative cable and the connected positive cable: it shows a fixed 12.60 V on the multimeter.

After I reconnected the negative cable to the battery, I re-tested the battery and it's showing 12.67 V.

Good news for the converter?

[myredracer]

If that's all that got damaged, you got off very lucky. That typically causes extensive and expensive damage. You should still check anything and everything that runs on 120V like TV, radio, etc...

The 120V wiring inside your unit will be just fine as it's rated for at least 300V, and probably 600V.

If that was in the US, you'd have a case to go after the campground to cover the repairs. Is there any recourse in Mexico or are you SOL?

Sorry to have to say, this is an example of why a SurgeGuard or Progressive Industries EMS is a good investment. After reading all the horror stories, we just bought an EMS.

[donn0128]

The converter makes 12VDC out of 120VAC The AC and refer are probably running on 120VAC electricity just fine. You need to realize that your RV has two different electrical systems. 12VDC which operates almost everything, furnace, lights etc. 120VAC takes care of ceiling fan, refer and water heater heating elements and all of the household looking outlets. You need to remove the leads from the battery and measure across the leads with your meter. it should read approx 13.66 VDC with no load. Also use the meter on OHM setting to check each fuse, including the one or two on the converter. Do this by removing each fuse and touching one lead to each end. Replace any fuses that might look OK, but read open and try things again.

[RoyB]

Anything that was "ON" plugged into the 120VAC is probably toast now. The Microwave and the Converter are good candidates. Hopefully internal fuses have blown..

This is where a surge protector will help you in the future... They will auto switch off your 120VAC when it doesn't look right...

I always have one of these RV120VAC VOLTMETERs plugged into a receptacle somewhere inside the trailer especially when on 15/20AMP connections. Always like to see the voltmeter scale in the GREEN before turning on the air conditioner...

Of course this probably would not have saved you if your get 240VAC all of sudden. Things would blow before you could do anything...


Hoping you good luck and not having to replace many items...
Roy Ken

[jornvango]

BFL13 wrote:
With shore power on, your battery voltage should be 13.6ish from the converter. It appears you lost the converter, but what brand and model is it before we try to guess remedies?

Meanwhile you should have/get a portable battery charger for the rest of your trip in case you can't repair the converter. You can get by with 120 shore power and 12v from battery as long as you have a battery charger.

You could try the MW in a different receptacle that is for sure working just to see. Unplug the MW and use an extension cord to the other receptacle.

Progressive dynamics power converter
PD4045KAp

Batteries show 12.66 this morning.

We have a generator with battery charging cables: will this work?

Will the battery still recharge while driving?

If the converter is broken, why are the other things in the RV, like fan/AC and fridge working on electrical?

Thank you,

Jorn

[TucsonJim]

I have to agree with the above posters.

The converter is "probably" not functioning now. As BFL13 noted, you should be around 13-1/2 volts at the battery with the rig plugged into shore power and the batteries charged up. One way you can be 100% certain about your converter output is to remove the negative battery cable from the battery. Then, check the voltage from the negative battery cable and the positive battery cable (still attached to the battery). If there is no voltage, then the converter is not working.

If the converter is not working, you need to check it's fuse. On my model, there are two fuses, but you can only get to them by pulling the converter out of the housing. If you decide to do this, make 100% sure you are disconnected from shore power, and that you disconnect the negative battery terminal. You don't want to get shocked or short out the battery while you're moving things around. Check the converter's fuses and replace if necessary. If they check good, then you'll need a new converter. If you can't find a converter in Mexico, then you can get a portable battery charger (also posted above).

As for the microwave, most of them have sensitive electronics on their circuit cards and I would suspect that one or more components are damaged. If there are no visible fuses, circuit breakers or reset switches, you'll probably have to replace it when you're back in the States.

[BFL13]

With shore power on, your battery voltage should be 13.6ish from the converter. It appears you lost the converter, but what brand and model is it before we try to guess remedies?

Meanwhile you should have/get a portable battery charger for the rest of your trip in case you can't repair the converter. You can get by with 120 shore power and 12v from battery as long as you have a battery charger.

You could try the MW in a different receptacle that is for sure working just to see. Unplug the MW and use an extension cord to the other receptacle.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Check the output on the converter.

Check the reverse polarity fuses on the converter--if you got lucky they blew.

Replace the microwave.

[DougE]

The real electricians will have fun with this. Generally speaking, the insulation of standard house wiring is rated for 600 volts. Likewise if you double the voltage to a device you half the amperage so the fuse wouldn't blow. So while doubling the voltage isn't a good thing, basic electric applications wouldn't be affected in the very short term. Electronics, however, differ in their capabilities. For example, diodes are limited in the back voltage they can tolerate. So anything with electronic controls might be affected and replacement of the control boards may be necessary. I had an old B&W TV that turned on after a lighting strike nearby and then wouldn't turn off. Turns out it had a diode across the on/off switch to keep the tubes hot for its instant on feature. The high voltage pulse of the lightening strike shorted out the diode resulting in the on/off switch being bypassed.