cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

Fresh water inlet spring thingy broken

Wrace
Explorer
Explorer
1997 Nash TT.

The spring thingy in the fresh water inlet that holds on-board pressure when using the pump finally gave up the ghost this last week, and it of course no longer holds pressure when the pump is on.

Are these things replaced as a complete unit from the outside? If so that seems like it could get tricky depending on if there is much (any) slack in the tubing such that the fitting can be pulled out enough to get access to the tube clamp. It also appears that this fitting is behind the shower tub (naturally) so access from inside may be dubious at best.

What about a redneck repair? The connection is water tight when a pressurized water hose is hooked to it, so why not build a little stubby hose piece or some other combination of fittings to stick in there? The plastic cap of course does not hold pressure.

What say you?

Thanks



21 REPLIES 21

Skid_Row_Joe
Explorer
Explorer
Wrace wrote:
Sent the local RV parts/dealer a picture of the inlet and he replied that they had these in stock - all the same plate/inlet but three different versions with different connections.

"One that is plastic check valve ½” MPT We have one that is brass check valve with ½ MPT and one that is brass check valve with ½” female pipe thread. They all look the same from the outside".

So I guess I'll pull this one out and take it with me to the store. Their price is likely going to be higher than online but I have the time today to work on this thing and would like to get it done and off my list.

Sometimes the local indy retailer is less than buying online from Camping World, etc. I saved a couple bucks buying a part for my Toro lawn mower part from my pricy retailer, versus online. Go figure!

Wrace
Explorer
Explorer
Sent the local RV parts/dealer a picture of the inlet and he replied that they had these in stock - all the same plate/inlet but three different versions with different connections.

"One that is plastic check valve ½” MPT We have one that is brass check valve with ½ MPT and one that is brass check valve with ½” female pipe thread. They all look the same from the outside".

So I guess I'll pull this one out and take it with me to the store. Their price is likely going to be higher than online but I have the time today to work on this thing and would like to get it done and off my list.

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
His new name is "Senior Moment" Biscuit. Surely there must be other sources than CW... that was the senior moment.

Skid_Row_Joe
Explorer
Explorer
Wrace wrote:
Thanks for the replies.

Short term I'll try stacking some washers in there and see if that existing plastic plug will seal. As it is the plug stops well short of sealing against the single washer. If that doesn't work I'll try the pvc plug. That will at least get me through this next trip.

There is little chance of getting to the inside where this inlet is mounted as it's buried behind the tub.

I'm wondering how this is typically replaced? Unscrew the plate, break the sealant and then the whole connected assembly pulls out far enough to unscrew the inlet and replace with the new one?

Or is the fitting that the inlet nipple screws into fixed to the floor and the inlet must be screwed into it, hoping that it screws in far enough to make a good seal (with tape) and at the same time the plate stops flush against the side of the trailer? If that made any sense...
We've used an infill of silicone caulk, held in-place by duct tape for 72 hours, then remove duct tape and hit it again with an infill of silicone caulk covered by duct tape again. That's held-up over 10 years and no complaints yet. Gorilla Tape will work too, if you can't find duct tape.

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Dutch_12078 wrote:
The quick "fix" is to just screw on an inline hose shutoff. They're about $2.50 at the nearest Walmart or home improvement store.


Mine died in the middle of a 2 week camping trip. I used the above pictured fix until I got home, when I replaced the faulty check valve.

Wrace wrote:
I'm wondering how this is typically replaced? Unscrew the plate, break the sealant and then the whole connected assembly pulls out far enough to unscrew the inlet and replace with the new one?

Yep, that is exactly how you fix it.

NOTE: After replacing the check valve, you will have to caulk around the fixture to keep water out. Do NOT use any caulk with the word "silicone" in it. While silicone does what it advertizes, when you have to revisit that area later, you will never get caulk to stick there again.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

Wrace
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the replies.

Short term I'll try stacking some washers in there and see if that existing plastic plug will seal. As it is the plug stops well short of sealing against the single washer. If that doesn't work I'll try the pvc plug. That will at least get me through this next trip.

There is little chance of getting to the inside where this inlet is mounted as it's buried behind the tub.

I'm wondering how this is typically replaced? Unscrew the plate, break the sealant and then the whole connected assembly pulls out far enough to unscrew the inlet and replace with the new one?

Or is the fitting that the inlet nipple screws into fixed to the floor and the inlet must be screwed into it, hoping that it screws in far enough to make a good seal (with tape) and at the same time the plate stops flush against the side of the trailer? If that made any sense...

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
It's easy to install a new city water inlet but you'll need a tube of caulk.

Simplest solution is to buy a 1/2" check valve like in the photo (under $10) and screw into onto the interior side of the inlet fitting. The threads are standard 1/2" pipe thread. Remove all the pieces of the original check valve.

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
Bid box stores have a pvc plug that screws right in there for a stopper.

GMandJM
Explorer
Explorer
computerbug wrote:
Old biscuit Can we have your private number or do you have a team?


I can imagine it now:

"Hello....this is OB from the Marcus' Rapid Response Team...."
G-half can always find a way to do things upside-down, inside-out or backward.
It's his Super Power!

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
Chris Bryant wrote:
There is no reason that plastic plug should not hold pressure, just screw it in tight.

It might need a hose washer added or replaced, but yes, it should hold under pressure as long as it's not damaged.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

computerbug
Explorer
Explorer
Old biscuit Can we have your private number or do you have a team?

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
There is no reason that plastic plug should not hold pressure, just screw it in tight.
-- Chris Bryant

TucsonJim
Explorer II
Explorer II
Dang Biscuit!
2016 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4
2017 Grand Design Reflection 297RSTS
2013 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4 (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)
2014 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)

bob213
Explorer
Explorer
Repair..check here..inlet valve repair
You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality – Ayn Rand