Fridge/Freezer door opening while driving

[unbob]

OK, I have searched high and low on the entire OR forum and found nothing regarding this problem. Surely I'm not the only one of this planet to have this problem! If anyone has a link please post.

I have a 4x4 one-ton diesel truck hauling a Bigfoot camper. I frequently drive on gnarly uneven bumpy roads. For years I've had the problem of the fridge or freezer coming open while driving and dumping food and drink on the floor.

Any suggestions or ideas on how to fix this problem? Obviously I could drill holes in cabinets or walls and tie ratchet straps or bungees but I've always hoped there was an easier way - but maybe not.

[steveh27]

I had to replace the swiveling latch on my Dometic fridge in my 1997 Class B as it broke. I used a rubber band to to keep it closed before the new latch and may use it as insurance now.

[docsouce]

2X on the post by StirCrazy. I had the same problem and this adjustment took care of it. However now I keep the door lightly packed. So far so good.

[jrloucks]

We had a similar problem with our '84 Class C. Although equipped with a (worn out) door lock/latch midway between the Dometic fridge and freezer doors; the doors would both swing open while travelling. The latch is good for keeping the doors slightly open during storage, but that's about it.

The doors are hinged on the left and have holes on the right side which I suspect could be used for reversing the door opening/hinges. I cut some common nails to length and use these nails to keep both doors shut in transit.

First picture shows the (lower) fridge door with a nail cut as short to allow the freezer door to close completely above (on top of) it.


Click For Full-Size Image.

The second photo shows another cut (common) nail to keep the freezer door shut during transit. The nail was shortened to allow the cupboard above to open and have something to grab.

I had to drill a hole through the plastic top cover from the bottom up, using the metalwork's hole as a guide, to make this work.


Click For Full-Size Image.

I was worried I'd loose these nails as they are not tethered to the fridge. But we still have them, four years later.

[vermilye]

profdant139 wrote:
Jon, that's a great photo you put on your fridge!! Where did you get such a big print, and how did you mount it to the curved surface of the door?

Wild guess -- is that Chaco Canyon?

And just to stay on topic, how do you tighten the strap and how is it attached to the sides of the fridge?

The Atwood Gas Tank Hold down strap comes with all the hardware necessary to attach it. I just tighten it by hand.

The photo is one I took of "House on Fire" in Mule Canyon off UT 95 between Blanding & Natural Bridges National Monument. I had it made by Poster Brain, however the last time I had a large print made by them I was not happy with the result, and no longer recommend them.

The print was dry mounted to 1/8" foam board and replaced the plywood panel the trailer manufacturer used. In a small trailer there are not that many places to hang a photo, so I've used the refrigerator door on my latest trailer as well:

[deltabravo]

agesilaus wrote:
Google Norcold parts

He has a Dometic, so Norcold parts won't help him

[profdant139]

Jon, that's a great photo you put on your fridge!! Where did you get such a big print, and how did you mount it to the curved surface of the door?

Wild guess -- is that Chaco Canyon?

And just to stay on topic, how do you tighten the strap and how is it attached to the sides of the fridge?

[vermilye]

I added a strap to keep the door on my Dometic RM2510 refrigerator closed.

[StirCrazy]

I had a simular issue but in my fiver, the pins in the door hinges have plastic bushings over them, when they wear down they allow movment of the door and the dometic plastic door catches cant handle the extra movment and let the door open. if it gets bad enough you will find your door right off and on the floor eventualy. its a simple fix to put new bushings on the pins and you can test it by opening your doors and lifting up and down on them and seeing if there is a bit of movment.

Steve

[Gjac]

From what you are describing it sounds like your seal has slightly compressed over the years. It sounds similar to my Norcold latch. Mine can be adjusted in or out. If you move the latch in it will put more spring in the plastic latch which makes it catch better. If your seal is compressed somewhat and a dollar bill slips out easily you can remove some plastic material from the base of the latch. I had to remove about .050 off the base of mine to get a tight seal. Also check to see if your return spring in the handle is in place and has not lost tension. When mine broke the door would shake open on ruff roads.

[wa8yxm]

I have a strap that goes from Kitchen to pantry crossing the fridge. It holds many things

Most RV store sell a couple of devices. One is a pin-lock for the Fridge door You drop or insert a pin it's locked.. Anotehr is a snap lock It "Improves" but may not elminate the problem.

On some cabintes I took a common hinge.. the kind with a removable pin.. (Actually they were not but I removed it anyway) I then dremmeled the mating parts so they go together easier (Shortened the "Knuckles") and insert a cotter pin when I drive. Those doors do NOT open. No matter what.

[BarneyS]

Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.

[Tiger4x4RV]

Lots of good ideas here. I'll add mine: blue painters tape.

BTW, my 1989 Dometic had a good dependable latch. My 2006 Dometic does not.

[unbob]

Many thanks for all the great ideas! What a great forum this is!
Yes, I think weight on the door is a major issue - I have it loaded with cans and bottles of stuff so there's some heavy weight for sure. Yesterday one of the plastic door shelves broke apparently from the weight.
I'll research and try some of your suggestions. Again, Thank you all!

[profdant139]

I put small eye hooks on either side of the fridge and then put a bungee cord from one eye hook to the other. Very simple and inelegant. But it works, no matter how bumpy the road.

Also, make sure that putting the bungee cord in place is part of your written pre-departure checklist, along with retracting the stabilizers and removing the power cord and so forth.