Furnace draws down aux battery when plugged into 110

[tpnysted]

I have my right plugged into 110. My furnace draws the battery down, motor slows down and won't ignite. All 110 accessories work. Shouldn't the furnace be running on stepped down power from the converter? That's the way I read the operation manual. Any ideas of what is wrong?

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Pretty scanty info.

What do the lights do when the furnace gets PMS?

[RJsfishin]

W/o more info, the most likely cause is a bad converter.

[BFL13]

If there is a bad connection on the converter to battery paths, then you will also have trouble getting proper battery 12v voltage to your DC distribution (fuse) panel to run the 12v things on that. (Unless the bad connection is between the converter and the dist panel.)

[Artum_Snowbird]

The thing that got me exactly the same as you... I had four days of plug in camping, and then boondocked and had no battery power.

I ended up wiggling the wires from the converter output, and then all of a sudden the DW says, "Wow, the lights just got bright!" I had my culprit and just had to tighten up the screw holding the negative return wire.

The thing that helped me figure it out was when I was driving, the batteries charged, but when I was plugged in they didn't. I checked the converter output at it's output and it looked good, but at the battery there was almost nothing.

[Fishinghat]

BFL13 wrote:
Yes, you can be on shore power and getting 120v to run things but still be on battery for the 12v things if the converter is not "on"

BTW the fridge will not work on 120v if it does not have 12v to run the controls, so you will lose the fridge too fairly soon at this rate as the battery runs right down.

There are several reasons why that could be. EG, you might have accidentally reversed the battery wires the last time you installed the battery, which blows the two 30a fuses on the converter or its nearby Dc fuse panel.

Or the converter is not getting any 120v input if it has its own breaker and it has popped. Or it is not plugged in to its receptacle if it has a cord and is not hard wired. Or that receptacle is on a GFCI protected circuit and the GFCI has popped. Or...

X2

All of the suggestions above are valid. You'll just have to do some looking and double checking until you find the cause.

[BFL13]

Yes, you can be on shore power and getting 120v to run things but still be on battery for the 12v things if the converter is not "on"

BTW the fridge will not work on 120v if it does not have 12v to run the controls, so you will lose the fridge too fairly soon at this rate as the battery runs right down.

There are several reasons why that could be. EG, you might have accidentally reversed the battery wires the last time you installed the battery, which blows the two 30a fuses on the converter or its nearby Dc fuse panel.

Or the converter is not getting any 120v input if it has its own breaker and it has popped. Or it is not plugged in to its receptacle if it has a cord and is not hard wired. Or that receptacle is on a GFCI protected circuit and the GFCI has popped. Or...