Having problem with new batteries going dead Fast!

[ulvik]

I just bought a new to us 2015 Big Country 3650RL. I changed the existing older 12 volt batteries for two new 6V golf cart batteries and wired them to 12 volts. I also installed 2 100 watt Renogy Panels, a Renogy Adventurer Li- 30A PWM controller with a Renogy BT-1 Bluetooth Module through a 1500 watt pure sine inverter. Well after charging all day I plugged in my campers shore plug into my inverter and turned off the converter inside on the breaker panel. All worked well and we watched about an hour of TV that night and run a small fan through out the night but woke up at 6AM to both batteries completely dead! What gives I run the exact same setup on my other camper with 12V batteries and it did great with a lot more usage. Everything inside was off and the Fridge was on LP. Anyone have any ideas what it could be or where I need to start looking? Also should I try and run 4 6volt batteries or go to 412V batteries which will let me boondock longer and give me more sustainable power?

[Boon_Docker]

theoldwizard1 wrote:


I am get SICK AND TIRED of people asking fr help on electrical issues when they WILL NOT HELP THEMSELVES !

Come On, tell us how you really feel. :B

[wa8yxm]

You need to check the state of charge after "Charging all day" with the panels. My guess is the batteries were not full up to start with.

And at the 20 hour rate you have only about 1.5KWH of power there if that. I do not know how much TV or Fan use draws but you may be drawing power for other thigns like a fridge. that sucker can draw 'em down fairly fast if it's an Absorption type (about 400 watts running). Other loads may be present. This is why my inverter feeds a SUB panel.. not the main. Only TV's and other SELECTED loads on the sub panel.

[shastagary]

he is not saying any thing about the 12v draws on the batteries other than his inverter.
did you run any lights are they led?
did you use any water therefore the pump?
refrigerator on gas have you shut off the climate control door frame heaters?

[Almot]

Ulvik, read your Controller Manual. Observe how charging works before running anything but lights, - what is the voltage in the morning before solar kicks in, at noon, in the evening, what other messages or icons are there on display.

Read the nameplate on 110V appliances before plugging it in, ask if you are in doubt. There will always be people yelling that you are wasting their time without data, and sometimes somebody will be yelling when you provide them with data :). It is not likely that a "small" 110V fan could deplete fully charged 2 GC, but then it is not clear how full they were.

With so few devices you don't have to buy fancy ammeter to find out what draws the current and exactly how much current. You can derive this information from the controller as well.

The bottom line is getting battery 95-99% full in the evening and keeping it above 50% by the morning. Observe voltages. Avoid 110V devices if you can (small electronics like TV is fine).

[mike-s]

theoldwizard1 wrote:
Start by looking at the current draw from the battery and then measure the current draw to each individual DC circuit from the DC distribution/fuse panel. 10 or 15 minutes and you will know where your power is going.

Even easier is to just clamp on the battery to see the total draw, leave it there, then start pulling DC fuses. The drop in current as each is pulled tells you what that circuit was drawing. That way you don't have to get behind the distribution panel. And if there's still a large draw after pulling all the fuses, then check the brake breakaway switch and measure the draw to the inverter, because those should be the only potential large draws which wouldn't go through the panel.

But, yeah, asking "this is broken, why?" without any detailed info isn't any way to solve a problem.

[theoldwizard1]

mike-s wrote:
You need to measure current draws to find out what's drawing power, starting with the current being drawn from the battery. A DC clamp meter makes it easy, you don't have to disconnect wires and then connect through the meter to measure current.

"After charging all day" tells us nothing. Which name/model batteries? What did you use to charge them? What voltage were they charged to, and how long were they held at that voltage?

I am get SICK AND TIRED of people asking fr help on electrical issues when they WILL NOT HELP THEMSELVES !

Buy a DMM/clamp meter ! There are dozens to choose from on Amazon for less than $50. The OP is wasting our time without any data.

Start by looking at the current draw from the battery and then measure the current draw to each individual DC circuit from the DC distribution/fuse panel. 10 or 15 minutes and you will know where your power is going.

[red31]

my small box fan is over .5A on AC, 10hrs on DC would be 60ah.
look for other loads, brake away, ...

[mike-s]

Almot wrote:
Mike-s, we are all assuming here because the OP tells so very little. You are assuming that his solar was not working for some reason after it was installed. The list can be endless.

I didn't assume anything. I asked how he charged the batteries.

[Almot]

I just had a brief look at this controller manual. Not only it reads voltages on display, but also has icons for battery empty/full etc.
Read the manual, you need to understand what it says on display.
Btw, it explains in simple terms about charging stages like Absorption and Float. Read it.

[Almot]

Mike-s, we are all assuming here because the OP tells so very little. You are assuming that his solar was not working for some reason after it was installed. The list can be endless.

[mike-s]

Almot wrote:
He used 200W solar to charge them

He did not say that. He said he installed solar, and he also said he charged them all day. You are only assuming he charged them with solar.

[2oldman]

ulvik wrote:
.. flashing "Low AU" which I took as low power due to the batteries being dead.

No need to assume anything with a voltmeter.

[Almot]

OP - the more you know about your setup, the less are the chances that this won't happen again - even after your buddy will have checked everything.

No matter what, - if you have this small 200W solar and want to avoid running a generator, lights must be LED and inverter is very desirable to shut down when not in use. Get 12V box fan.

Another "must" is to read the controller manual.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

You absolutely need an energy monitor. Glance at my post about the wireless inductive meter. Having no energy monitor is like trying to drive at night without headlights.

[ulvik]

2oldman wrote:
What does you Renogy BT-1 Bluetooth Module say?

Is the water heater on gas? Is the refrigerator on gas?

The module read %95 at sunset but when I woke up because the fan went off it said %10. The water heater was not on at all and the fridge was on gas but was flashing "Low AU" which I took as low power due to the batteries being dead.