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Here we go again yet another Trombetta "Big Boy" failure!

mchero
Explorer
Explorer
I have just about had it with these P.O.S. Trombetta isolator solenoids.
My 1st class A diesel, a 93 Pace Arrow was not charging the house batteries while driving down the road. Found the Trombetta isolator relay not passing voltage thru to the house batteries. Replaced with same and all was well.
Upgraded to current coach and found the exact same issue, Trombetta isolation solenoid failure. Replaced it and all was back in order.
Tonight i noticed the house batteries at 13.5 and the main batteries at 12.3. Went back to the electrical bay, felt the Trombetta and it was warm telling me the solenoid was energized but yet again, not passing voltage to the chassis batteries!
What's with these solenoids, have to replace them every 4 to 5 years?

Anybody found a replacement? I know the Blue Sea marine solenoids look pretty rock solid but the prices will knock your socks off.

Ideas, suggestions?
Robert McHenry
Currently, Henniker NH
07 Fleetwood Discovery 39V
1K Solar dieselrvowners.com
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Prior:1993 Pace Arrow 37' Diesel
38 REPLIES 38

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
You could choose to by-pass the isolator and always have the house to engine batts in parallel even when engine is off. Or you could have a manual disconnect instead of that isolator. One way would be a fuse in a holder. Pull the fuse as your way to disconnect.

Pros and cons for leaving them in parallel. One pro is if parked for long your solar can keep the engine battery up too without having a separate charger for that.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

mchero
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, 300 amp might be overkill.
Robert McHenry
Currently, Henniker NH
07 Fleetwood Discovery 39V
1K Solar dieselrvowners.com
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Prior:1993 Pace Arrow 37' Diesel

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
mchero wrote:
Cole Hersee link looks interesting. Continuous duty indeed but how many amps? I'm looking for 300 amp plus.

Why so much ?

If its purpose is to isolate the house batteries from the starting batteries during cranking and when the engine is OFF, it will only be ON when the engine is running and you are trying to charge the house batteries from the engine. I am certain that your engine alternator can not generate anything near 300A !

Personally, I would rather have a DC-DC charger. It will not allow reverse flow of current AND it will properly apply a multi-step charge on your house batteries.

BarabooBob
Explorer III
Explorer III
When I had my Toyota based Damon Escaper I went through 3 different isolators from O'Reily's and Napp. I ordered a Cole Hersee and it lasted thee next 6 years/60,000 miles we drove it. Easy replacement. I did install a volt meter to show voltage of coach battery to make sure that I was getting a charge. With the Escaper I replaced the whimpy 12 gauge wire with a 6 gauge wire from the isolator back to the coach battery.
Bob & Dawn Married 34 years
2017 Viking 17RD
2011 Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost 420 lb/ft
Retired

mchero
Explorer
Explorer
Cole Hersee link looks interesting. Continuous duty indeed but how many amps? I'm looking for 300 amp plus.

Here's one;
https://www.amazon.com/Continuous-Solenoid-Relay-Nickel-Plating-Marine/dp/B072MZHK48/ref=pd_sbs_263_...
But $19.00, Really?
Hmmmm
Max Transient current can be 300A, but Continuous Working Current recommend under 150 Amp/ WARRANTY: Life Long Warranty and Free Return and Full Refund

Yo MEX, you checking this out?
Robert McHenry
Currently, Henniker NH
07 Fleetwood Discovery 39V
1K Solar dieselrvowners.com
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Prior:1993 Pace Arrow 37' Diesel

MDKMDK
Explorer
Explorer
jjrbus wrote:
I just replaced the Isolator on my 94 Toyota RV, I believe it was the original one.

I replaced it with a Cole Hersee from Amazon for about $20, we will see what the next 25 years brings.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FQL43U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Cole Hersee is the go to replacement for these things. MB Sprinters have similar problems and most of the owners choose Cole Hersee.
Mike. Comments are anecdotal or personal opinions, and worth what you paid for them.
2018 (2017 Sprinter Cab Chassis) Navion24V + 2016 Wrangler JKU (sold @ ????)
2016 Sunstar 26HE, V10, 3V, 6 Speed (sold @ 4600 miles)
2002 Roadtrek C190P (sold @ 315,000kms)

mchero
Explorer
Explorer
azrving wrote:
Are they rated as continuous duty?


The Trombetta is indeed continuous duty. Contacts get crusty & fail. I guess I could drill out the 4 rivets holding the bottom cover on and clean up the contacts but it would be a short term fix. Done it once before but these failures are getting old. $60 to $70 a pop!

Need to repair/replace if I want the alternator to charge while driving down the road.
Robert McHenry
Currently, Henniker NH
07 Fleetwood Discovery 39V
1K Solar dieselrvowners.com
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Prior:1993 Pace Arrow 37' Diesel

azrving
Explorer
Explorer

jjrbus
Explorer
Explorer
I just replaced the Isolator on my 94 Toyota RV, I believe it was the original one.

I replaced it with a Cole Hersee from Amazon for about $20, we will see what the next 25 years brings.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FQL43U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1