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Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!

AISURFFISH
Explorer
Explorer
I wanted to share a bit of my time and knowledge of the Honda 2000 I generator. I know that this time of year we all want to get things started and dont want to have the hassle of needing our Honda and having it not work. Here is a 30 minute fix up that will get you going.
This is a simple Carb cleaning and maintenance.
First empty old fuel by tilting the genny over and getting all of the old stuff out of there.


First remove the side panel

Then remove the Air Cleaner cover. one flat head screw.

Using an 8mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt.

Once the hardware is removed pull off the air clean box, intake manifold and the breather tube. These 3 parts can be removed in one big piece. You can see where the breather tube goes in photo below.

The breather tube runs into the engine body here.

All 3 parts removed and set aside.

First remove the fuel line.
Slide the Carb off of the two bolts that will remain in the block of the engine. I like to leave the cable attached. This is the Eco Throttle. If you remove it you will have a spring shoot off and if you do manage to find it you most likely won't figure out how to put it back without a trip to a Honda dealer. It's just easier to leave on.

Front side of Carb.

Engine with the parts removed. This is a good time to drain the oil and fill it back up.


These photos show the position of the vent tubes so you can see where they are form replacing. Go ahead and remove the tubes now. Using a 10mm socket remover the float bowl nut. It's the Brass one seen above in the middle of the float bowl.

You can now see the float. The float pivots on a pin it is simply slid out for removal of the float. The float moves up and down and shuts off the fuel to the bowl. The bowl will most likely show signs of rust and will need a good cleaning. There is an o-ring gasket there, you can usually reuse this gasket.

Here the float have been removed.

The main jet is in the tube shown. Use a skinny screw driver and remove the jet and 2 parts will fall out. These are almost always full of gunk. Use a Carb cleaner in a can and blow these parts out really good. Take extra time this is the heart of the Carb.

These are how the parts go back in. Order and direction is important.

At this point use the carb cleaner and spray all of the inner parts of the float area and spray ino any holes you see. Spray into the holes while moving throttle plates and choke plates. You basically want to exercise all moving parts and get the cleaner into everywhere.
At this point put everything back together on the carb in reverse order and put the vents tubes back on.
Slide the Carb back onto the 2 bolts and then run the vent tubes back into the Genset case. As shown below.


Shown about is the Carb back on with the tubes re-run.



These photos show the bolts going back in and the final steps to getting it back to running order.

At this point you can change the plug and give her a pull!!!

I hope this has been informative.

To those of you that will be attending the Mid Atlantic Truck Camper Rally Just ask and I can walk you though this in no time. And maybe throw in a quick seminar if enough folks are interested in seeing it done.
2017 F350 6.2L Crew Cab

Arctic Fox 990 2021 TORK-LIFT FAST GUNS AND SUPER HITCH
COOLER RACK OFF THE FRONT ALWAYS FULL OF FISHING RODS TICA TO BE EXACT

235 REPLIES 235

BradW
Explorer II
Explorer II
Great info, thanks for posting.

Added to the TCU Sticky Thread.
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Hook
Explorer
Explorer
Whether you use Stabil or Seafoam, drain it or not, exercise it or not, tear it apart this way or that, this is an excellant write up.

Thank you AISURFFISH for the time and effort to write and post this article. I would rather read stuff like this then SWD/DWD bashing--er,I mean debates.;)

Hook
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4runnerguy
Explorer
Explorer
Great write up. THIS SHOULD BE A STICKY SOMEWHERE!!!

I found this while I was searching for an old post where somebody had described the process of cleaning out the carb and jets. This is so much better. Heck with words, I love the pictures.

Thanks!
Ken & Allison
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1996 4Runner, TRD Supercharger, Edelbrock headers
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2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Great job! I'm keeping this URL.

I always drain the tank and carb (never leave fuel in it), but, you never know.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

curt12914
Explorer
Explorer
I am quite sure the screen inside the filler neck is the only filtering.

I guess I'm not the only one that is impressed with Seafoam. It's the only product I have ever seen that really makes a difference.
2021 F-350 Platinum 4X4 PSD SRW 2016 Montana 3950FL (2) Honda EU2000i's
...and a few (twenty-some, but other than my wife, no one is counting) antique Allis Chalmers tractors

h45wt
Explorer
Explorer
My EU2000 started running rough after about 500 ours of use. Would only happen when using the ECO mode and running for several hours or if it was very cold outside. Before this last trip I started using Seafoam cleaner in every tank. This last trip I ran it several nights at 6F and no more rough running. Running in ECO mode just powering the converter it will run a bit more than 12 hours.

I believe that there is a fuel filter inside the fuel tank as well as the tubular screen in the filler neck. I'd like too change the inside one but haven't been able to figure out where it is. Anyone ever changed it?
03 Chevy 3500 LT DRW D/A CC LB 4x4
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INSAYN
Explorer
Explorer
AISURFFISH wrote:
Mine prolly did not need to be removed again. it would not start and after i drained the gas i knew why... The gas was almost brown in color and smelled really bad. It was bad gas ... So after the new gas new plug and clean carb it ran as good as new...


How old was your fuel to begin with?

My Honda is going on 5 years and still starts and runs great. I exercise periodically through the year, and retop it off with fresh fuel. I don't always put in Sta-bil during the summer months, but do in the fall where I use it the least. I always drain the fuel bowl after I use it and plan to put it away for more than a week. The fuel bowl is vented and will evaporate the fuel. The fuel tank can be sealed thus not as much of a worry of evap or fuel going bad.
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2005 SnowRiver 8'10", Loaded + EU2000i.
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AISURFFISH
Explorer
Explorer
Mine prolly did not need to be removed again. it would not start and after i drained the gas i knew why... The gas was almost brown in color and smelled really bad. It was bad gas ... So after the new gas new plug and clean carb it ran as good as new...
2017 F350 6.2L Crew Cab

Arctic Fox 990 2021 TORK-LIFT FAST GUNS AND SUPER HITCH
COOLER RACK OFF THE FRONT ALWAYS FULL OF FISHING RODS TICA TO BE EXACT

curt12914
Explorer
Explorer
Great post!!!

However, I don't agree with some of the posts after the original. It's probably a good idea to clean the float bowl periodicaly, but there is no reason to remove the jet unless it's dirty or plugged.

I, also don't put much credence in the "bad gas" theory. I have left untreated gas in my "twins" for several winters. It may have taken a little squirt of gas in the spark plug or through the carb to first get it started, but once they start, I have never had a problem.

Since they have no filter, it's imperative to be careful handling the fuel. I would never use a steel can (that could rust) or never completely empty the can when refilling.

I'm not much for "snake oil", but if they run a little rough, Sea Foam is by far the best stuff I have found. It sure beats tearing the carb apart if you don't have to!
2021 F-350 Platinum 4X4 PSD SRW 2016 Montana 3950FL (2) Honda EU2000i's
...and a few (twenty-some, but other than my wife, no one is counting) antique Allis Chalmers tractors

wnjj
Explorer II
Explorer II
capterik wrote:
Only thing I would add is to do this when you put it away instead of waiting, as shapeshifter found out, when he needed it it didn't work. Great writeup.


Unless you drain the gas or use fuel stabilizer, it won't do any good to clean it before you put it away. Mine had problems because I put it away and the gas went bad. It was running perfectly when I had used it previously. In my case the carb cleaning was needed to get it running again.

wnjj
Explorer II
Explorer II
ShapeShifter wrote:
I've been reluctant to touch the carb, but with these great instructions I have no more worries. OK, maybe one worry -- when putting the main jet back, is there any adjustment that needs to be made? Or does it just go back in and the retaining screw gets snugged down?


Just snug it up. The jet diameter is what sets the "adjustment".

ShapeShifter
Explorer
Explorer
capterik wrote:
Only thing I would add is to do this when you put it away instead of waiting, as shapeshifter found out, when he needed it it didn't work.

It didn't let me down -- it worked, it just took several extra pulls. It normally starts on the first or second pull, this time it took a dozen or so. It's not used all the time, but it is used several times a year, and I store it filled with Sta-Bil treated gas.

But it's close to 10 years old now, and even though it's been treated well, it probably could use a good cleaning to bring it back to 100%.

I've been reluctant to touch the carb, but with these great instructions I have no more worries. OK, maybe one worry -- when putting the main jet back, is there any adjustment that needs to be made? Or does it just go back in and the retaining screw gets snugged down?
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JacintoKid
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks. Mine is way overdue and I was planning on getting this done before we go up to the mountains this summer. You have just made it very easy. Thanks AISURFFISH
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capterik
Explorer
Explorer
Only thing I would add is to do this when you put it away instead of waiting, as shapeshifter found out, when he needed it it didn't work. Great writeup.
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AISURFFISH
Explorer
Explorer
SidKaye wrote:
Ron, thanks for a great post. I have a EU1000i, do you know if the procedure would be the same or similar. Mine has been running rough on ECO and jut today I was searching the net for carb maintenance.

Sidney


i have no idea what the 1000 carb looks like so i cant comment but the principles are the same.
2017 F350 6.2L Crew Cab

Arctic Fox 990 2021 TORK-LIFT FAST GUNS AND SUPER HITCH
COOLER RACK OFF THE FRONT ALWAYS FULL OF FISHING RODS TICA TO BE EXACT