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Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!

AISURFFISH
Explorer
Explorer
I wanted to share a bit of my time and knowledge of the Honda 2000 I generator. I know that this time of year we all want to get things started and dont want to have the hassle of needing our Honda and having it not work. Here is a 30 minute fix up that will get you going.
This is a simple Carb cleaning and maintenance.
First empty old fuel by tilting the genny over and getting all of the old stuff out of there.


First remove the side panel

Then remove the Air Cleaner cover. one flat head screw.

Using an 8mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt.

Once the hardware is removed pull off the air clean box, intake manifold and the breather tube. These 3 parts can be removed in one big piece. You can see where the breather tube goes in photo below.

The breather tube runs into the engine body here.

All 3 parts removed and set aside.

First remove the fuel line.
Slide the Carb off of the two bolts that will remain in the block of the engine. I like to leave the cable attached. This is the Eco Throttle. If you remove it you will have a spring shoot off and if you do manage to find it you most likely won't figure out how to put it back without a trip to a Honda dealer. It's just easier to leave on.

Front side of Carb.

Engine with the parts removed. This is a good time to drain the oil and fill it back up.


These photos show the position of the vent tubes so you can see where they are form replacing. Go ahead and remove the tubes now. Using a 10mm socket remover the float bowl nut. It's the Brass one seen above in the middle of the float bowl.

You can now see the float. The float pivots on a pin it is simply slid out for removal of the float. The float moves up and down and shuts off the fuel to the bowl. The bowl will most likely show signs of rust and will need a good cleaning. There is an o-ring gasket there, you can usually reuse this gasket.

Here the float have been removed.

The main jet is in the tube shown. Use a skinny screw driver and remove the jet and 2 parts will fall out. These are almost always full of gunk. Use a Carb cleaner in a can and blow these parts out really good. Take extra time this is the heart of the Carb.

These are how the parts go back in. Order and direction is important.

At this point use the carb cleaner and spray all of the inner parts of the float area and spray ino any holes you see. Spray into the holes while moving throttle plates and choke plates. You basically want to exercise all moving parts and get the cleaner into everywhere.
At this point put everything back together on the carb in reverse order and put the vents tubes back on.
Slide the Carb back onto the 2 bolts and then run the vent tubes back into the Genset case. As shown below.


Shown about is the Carb back on with the tubes re-run.



These photos show the bolts going back in and the final steps to getting it back to running order.

At this point you can change the plug and give her a pull!!!

I hope this has been informative.

To those of you that will be attending the Mid Atlantic Truck Camper Rally Just ask and I can walk you though this in no time. And maybe throw in a quick seminar if enough folks are interested in seeing it done.
2017 F350 6.2L Crew Cab

Arctic Fox 990 2021 TORK-LIFT FAST GUNS AND SUPER HITCH
COOLER RACK OFF THE FRONT ALWAYS FULL OF FISHING RODS TICA TO BE EXACT

235 REPLIES 235

wnjj
Explorer II
Explorer II
Robbie S wrote:
Good Post! Just a few tips. I run a lawn mowing company, so we deal with this all the time. You can not run 87 gas in a Honda. It will void the warranty. Too much ethanol. Honda put out a service bulletin about it. I put 92 and stabilizer in when they are going to sit. Once started they run rough till the gas goes through. One more tank of 92 and then I switch to 89 and they usually run great. Haven't had to clean a carb in some for five years or more. Also I use good gas, no AM/PM gas.


That's good to know considering that prior to Jan 1 of this year you couldn't buy ANY gas in Oregon without 10% ethanol. They changed to law to allow dealers to exempt 91 octane but carrying it is optional. I'll have to see who's selling what.

Robbie_S
Explorer
Explorer
Good Post! Just a few tips. I run a lawn mowing company, so we deal with this all the time. You can not run 87 gas in a Honda. It will void the warranty. Too much ethanol. Honda put out a service bulletin about it. I put 92 and stabilizer in when they are going to sit. Once started they run rough till the gas goes through. One more tank of 92 and then I switch to 89 and they usually run great. Haven't had to clean a carb in some for five years or more. Also I use good gas, no AM/PM gas.

Matthew_B
Explorer
Explorer
Atchafalaya_man wrote:
a) Gasoline and Water will not mix. Water will puddle in the gas container.

b) Gasoline and Alcohol will mix. No puddle.

c) "Water and Alcohol" mix too. No puddle.

ONCE THEY HAVE MIXED;

d) Gasoline will mix with "Water and Alcohol" , resulting in:

UNSEEN WATER MIXED IN YOUR GAS!

I doubt if any engine is designed for this mix (d), so don't give it to your engine.


Only a little bit of water can be in solution with gasoline and ethanol. After it saturates the alcohol will come out and you'll have puddles of alcohol and water under the gasoline. Methanol is much better at mixing them up. That's why dry gas is methanol and not ethanol.

Atchafalaya_man
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1 wrote:


I will only buy the argument of bad gas, if you or I made it bad after we got it. I think condensation in the fuel can is the biggest problem. Try to keep your fuel tank and fuel can full, to reduce the condensation.


Wayne


Good point Wayne. If stations sold 'bad gas' you'd see vehicles broken down in all directions 1/4 mile from those stations and you'd probably hear about it on the news. Sure it happens but rarely. They have filters on most pumps anyway and at stations that sell a lot of gas, they get refills often from the refinery, sometimes DAILY.

I wonder if people ever LOOK into their almost-empty fuel container before they buy their fuel?

mchero
Explorer
Explorer
Note that the EU100 cark looks exactly the same! Should be close to identical to the EU2000. I'll post w simular write up on the EU1000

Thanks!
Robert McHenry
Currently, Henniker NH
07 Fleetwood Discovery 39V
1K Solar dieselrvowners.com
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Prior:1993 Pace Arrow 37' Diesel

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Great post on the carb.

I have had my Honda for over five years. It has failed to start four times. The first time, I took it the the Honda shop. They allowed me to watch, while they checked it out. They poured the gas out (with water), replaced the gas, installed a spark plug, and it fired right up. They charged me for a new spark plug.

The other three times, I simply poured the gas and water out, filled it with gas and it fired up. One of those times, I captured the gas/water, when I poured it out. There was less than a teaspoon of water. I did not drain the oil before pouring the water out.

I will only buy the argument of bad gas, if you or I made it bad after we got it. I think condensation in the fuel can is the biggest problem. Try to keep your fuel tank and fuel can full, to reduce the condensation.


Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Atchafalaya_man
Explorer
Explorer
1) Get into the habit of turning off the fuel cutoff valve and letting the carb run out of fuel. NO GAS REMAINING IN THE CARB at the end of the day means nothing from which to form gunk if you leave it in there for too long.

2) Try to use fuel stabilizer each time you purchase gas.

3) Attempt to purchase straight gasoline, rather than ethanol-gas. Ethanol attracts water from humidity in the air and ends up condensing in your gas tank.

a) Gasoline and Water will not mix. Water will puddle in the gas container.

b) Gasoline and Alcohol will mix. No puddle.

c) "Water and Alcohol" mix too. No puddle.

ONCE THEY HAVE MIXED;

d) Gasoline will mix with "Water and Alcohol" , resulting in:

UNSEEN WATER MIXED IN YOUR GAS!

I doubt if any engine is designed for this mix (d), so don't give it to your engine.

bigfootford
Nomad II
Nomad II
Are you running your honda with the choke set 1/2 way to get it to run....Read on:

The emulsifier tube that is part of the jet...which the OP was removing with the screwdriver is where most of the run problems will occur. Something gets in the tube....thus you have to run with the choke slightly closed.....Thats the symptom...

The first time I took my carb apart, 4 years ago, I removed the jet and the tube wouldn't come out. I cupped my hands around the ends of the carb body so i could force air backwards through the ports in the venturi area of the carb.....out came the tube, across the shop, I almost lost it!!!!!! So be careful.

Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260, Two Redodo 100ah Mini's, Aims 2500 Conv/Inv, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Delorme/laptop for travel, Wave-3 heat.

rjsurfer
Explorer
Explorer
I don't care for these well written technical write ups, sorry.

At least before I read this thread I had an excuse for not cleaning out my Honda carb, now I feel bad every time I run the genny with the choke slid half way over to keep it running.

Ron W
03 Dodge 2500 SRW,SB,EC
2018 Keystone 25RES
DRZ-400SM
DL-650

sleepy
Explorer
Explorer
Excellent write up. You have preformed a very nice service for many of the people on RV.net.

Makes me pesonally glad that I have a propane generator...

Sleepy
2003 Lance 1161,/slideout/AGM batteries/255W Solar/propane generator/Sat dish/2 Fantastic Fans/AC/winter pkg
AirFoil, Trimetric, LED lights, Platcat vent heat

2003GMC K3500 LT/Crewcab/duramax diesel/allison/dually/4x4/OnStar/front reciever mounted spare

MrTravelDecal
Explorer
Explorer
h45wt wrote:


I believe that there is a fuel filter inside the fuel tank as well as the tubular screen in the filler neck. I'd like too change the inside one but haven't been able to figure out where it is. Anyone ever changed it?


I know this is way late but OF COURSE there is a filter in the tank!

You will need to pull the fuel line off of the bottom of the tank. Inside of the little moulded nipple of the plastic tank (that you just pulled the fuel line from) you will find a long and skinny fuel filtering screen. It is no larger in diameter than a pencil. probably a bit thinner actually.

SCVJeff
Explorer
Explorer
BradW wrote:
Great info, thanks for posting.

Added to the TCU Sticky Thread.
Well that's a start. Can we lobby to get it moved where it will be seen by the masses?
Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350

2nakiller
Explorer
Explorer
Great write up, and photos too.
just got done doing this to mine as well, there is only one thing I can add is before re-assembly, remember to clean and oil the foam air filter.
And always drain the carb bowl after use, this will eliminate many problems with this generator
2000 F-350 Crew Cab 4X4 Longbed 7.3 SRW 6 speed
Bilstiens, Bags & Happijac
1996 11'6" Weekender side entry (The Beast):p
2015 Puma 295 Bunkhouse 5er

spkncarl
Explorer
Explorer
AISURFFISH wrote:
Thanks.... nice to know it was so appreciated...


Very much so...perfect!!!:B

AISURFFISH
Explorer
Explorer
Hook wrote:
Whether you use Stabil or Seafoam, drain it or not, exercise it or not, tear it apart this way or that, this is an excellant write up.

Thank you AISURFFISH for the time and effort to write and post this article. I would rather read stuff like this then SWD/DWD bashing--er,I mean debates.;)

Hook



Thanks.... nice to know it was so appreciated...
2017 F350 6.2L Crew Cab

Arctic Fox 990 2021 TORK-LIFT FAST GUNS AND SUPER HITCH
COOLER RACK OFF THE FRONT ALWAYS FULL OF FISHING RODS TICA TO BE EXACT