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Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!

AISURFFISH
Explorer
Explorer
I wanted to share a bit of my time and knowledge of the Honda 2000 I generator. I know that this time of year we all want to get things started and dont want to have the hassle of needing our Honda and having it not work. Here is a 30 minute fix up that will get you going.
This is a simple Carb cleaning and maintenance.
First empty old fuel by tilting the genny over and getting all of the old stuff out of there.


First remove the side panel

Then remove the Air Cleaner cover. one flat head screw.

Using an 8mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt.

Once the hardware is removed pull off the air clean box, intake manifold and the breather tube. These 3 parts can be removed in one big piece. You can see where the breather tube goes in photo below.

The breather tube runs into the engine body here.

All 3 parts removed and set aside.

First remove the fuel line.
Slide the Carb off of the two bolts that will remain in the block of the engine. I like to leave the cable attached. This is the Eco Throttle. If you remove it you will have a spring shoot off and if you do manage to find it you most likely won't figure out how to put it back without a trip to a Honda dealer. It's just easier to leave on.

Front side of Carb.

Engine with the parts removed. This is a good time to drain the oil and fill it back up.


These photos show the position of the vent tubes so you can see where they are form replacing. Go ahead and remove the tubes now. Using a 10mm socket remover the float bowl nut. It's the Brass one seen above in the middle of the float bowl.

You can now see the float. The float pivots on a pin it is simply slid out for removal of the float. The float moves up and down and shuts off the fuel to the bowl. The bowl will most likely show signs of rust and will need a good cleaning. There is an o-ring gasket there, you can usually reuse this gasket.

Here the float have been removed.

The main jet is in the tube shown. Use a skinny screw driver and remove the jet and 2 parts will fall out. These are almost always full of gunk. Use a Carb cleaner in a can and blow these parts out really good. Take extra time this is the heart of the Carb.

These are how the parts go back in. Order and direction is important.

At this point use the carb cleaner and spray all of the inner parts of the float area and spray ino any holes you see. Spray into the holes while moving throttle plates and choke plates. You basically want to exercise all moving parts and get the cleaner into everywhere.
At this point put everything back together on the carb in reverse order and put the vents tubes back on.
Slide the Carb back onto the 2 bolts and then run the vent tubes back into the Genset case. As shown below.


Shown about is the Carb back on with the tubes re-run.



These photos show the bolts going back in and the final steps to getting it back to running order.

At this point you can change the plug and give her a pull!!!

I hope this has been informative.

To those of you that will be attending the Mid Atlantic Truck Camper Rally Just ask and I can walk you though this in no time. And maybe throw in a quick seminar if enough folks are interested in seeing it done.
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COOLER RACK OFF THE FRONT ALWAYS FULL OF FISHING RODS TICA TO BE EXACT

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mchero
Explorer
Explorer
Sidney

EU1000 genset is slightly different. The car cleaner assembly does not remove like the EU2000. You pull the two nuts holding the ductwork from air cleaner to carb & remove. It connect between the Air Cleaner and carb. Once that's removed you have to carefully remove the fuel line. You can then remove the carb. Looks exactly like the EU2K.

I have had my EU1K case stripped down a number of times. Hard part is routing all the cables properly.

I'll be doing a similar writeup on the EU1000. Carb & electrical diagnosis on my writeup.

SidKaye wrote:
Ron, thanks for a great post. I have a EU1000i, do you know if the procedure would be the same or similar. Mine has been running rough on ECO and jut today I was searching the net for carb maintenance.



Sidney
Robert McHenry
Currently, Henniker NH
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JDTECH1
Explorer
Explorer
Nice thread before some go taking your carb apart check with the dealer. As I've cleaned many a carbs working at a JD dealer. Some how lately we can buy carbs for $15 to $25 our cost from the honda dealer for the small HP eng's. At $69/hour I can't clean a carb for that cheap. Wish JD could get their prices down there.

Some have talked about putting sta-bil in their fuel. This is fine but one word of caution. Make sure you follow the direction on the bottle. In the old days if a little was good a little more should be better right. Not so with sta-bil !! If you mix to heavy and the fuel in the carb evaporates. It leaves a sticky gum in the carb that carb cleaner will not touch. Have taken many apart that are junk because of sta-bil being mix to heavy.

When it comes to fuel octane read your OP manual. It will tell you what to run for fuel. Those in the more northern areas that get colder weather. Like diesel fuel, gas has summer and winter grades. So only buy enough fuel for 30 to 60 days. Could go on about fuel forever, but just do a search on fuel storage shelf life.

curt12914
Explorer
Explorer
I guess I have been lucky. My "twins" set all winter, every winter (4-5 years), with gas in the tank and the carb. I have never had a problem with a dirty carb (yet).

I just got them out a couple weeks ago. I pulled one 15 times and the other 18 times before they started. After I started them, I ran them about 3 hours each with no problems.

I always run Seafoam through the first tank of fresh gas in the spring and I try to remember to put it in the last tank every fall.
2021 F-350 Platinum 4X4 PSD SRW 2016 Montana 3950FL (2) Honda EU2000i's
...and a few (twenty-some, but other than my wife, no one is counting) antique Allis Chalmers tractors

Tennesseepowers
Explorer
Explorer
One of my Honday EU2000 generators began to run rough and had to have the choke half closed. I ran a healthy dose of Sea Foam through it and it cleared up. I have not had any more problems with either generator and they are around 6 years old.
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bill_h
Explorer
Explorer
Atchafalaya_man wrote:
1) Get into the habit of turning off the fuel cutoff valve and letting the carb run out of fuel.


Turning the big black knob turns off both fuel and ignition.

How do I turn off the fuel without turning off the ignition?

How about just draining the float bowl?
NOTE: Any incorrect spelling is intentional to prevent those annoying popups.

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ShapeShifter
Explorer
Explorer
dro1984 wrote:
Where is the "fuel shutoff" on the Honda 2000i? I just took delivery of mine and am very excited over this great little Generator!

It's built into that big black run/stop rotary knob. Turn that knob to off, and it electrically stops the motor, and mechanically closes the fuel supply valve.

There is also a vent control on the fuel filler cap. You need to make sure to turn that on when you start the generator, or the generator will stop after a few minutes, once it develops a vacuum in the tank and can't suck out any more gas. When shutting down the generator, it's a good practice to also close that vent.
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dro1984
Explorer
Explorer
Atchafalaya_man wrote:
1) Get into the habit of turning off the fuel cutoff valve and letting the carb run out of fuel. NO GAS REMAINING IN THE CARB at the end of the day means nothing from which to form gunk if you leave it in there for too long.

2) Try to use fuel stabilizer each time you purchase gas.



Where is the "fuel shutoff" on the Honda 2000i? I just took delivery of mine and am very excited over this great little Generator!

I know the Yamaha's I looked at have a fuel cut off that you can turn off and continue to run engine until fuel is off. The dealer that was demo'ing the machines, said the engine/fuel on/off switch on the Honda is the only cut-off, but that shuts the engine too? I prefer to run my equipment out of gas by cutting the fuel off?
By the way, this carb cleaning writeup was great! Great job! You guys and gals all rock!! Thanks in advance!

popeye59
Explorer
Explorer
Once you removed the float bowl nut, this was beyond my abilities. I kid you not, I can tear down most anything and put it back together without any problems... except a carb. Complex ones or simple ones, it doesn't matter. Once I touch a carb, it's dead. Nice write up though.
Frank and Jean
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DAV Life Member

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The things that come to those that wait will be the junky stuff left by those that got there 1st.

Remember; never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Kodiak5er
Explorer
Explorer
If you need to start your Honda generator and it wont start with a minimum amount of pulls I have found that a good way to accomplish starting the Honda is to blow fairly hard on the filler neck of the gas tank.
Use a fair amount of pressure and let it off very carefully so you don't have a gas blow back.
Doing the above might just get you out of a sticky situation when you need a generator in an emergency.
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Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Harry Havasu wrote:
Why doesn't the manufacturer give us something like this instead of silly stuff printed in five languages ???
Silly you, the dealers make lots of money when the buying public is at their mercy. :B

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

pyoung47
Explorer
Explorer
Safety glasses are essential when spraying carb cleaner into the carb.

Harry_Havasu
Explorer
Explorer
Not only was the post superb, but the following commentaries were highly informative.

My thanks to AISURFFISH and to all of you who contributed your earnest knowledge.

The reader can piece together which thoughts he wishes to follow and feel secure in the knowledge that whatever he does, his Honda will be better off for it.

I feel a little left out, owning a Yami and could have save $87.00 last fall for a carb clean out had I even this post to work from.

Why doesn't the manufacturer give us something like this instead of silly stuff printed in five languages ???
Harry Havasu

Robbie_S
Explorer
Explorer
They run rough because usually there is gas in the Carb bowl and lines. That gas gets watery. Sometimes I do just one tank, sometimes two. Just depends on how long it has sat. The new gas has Ethanol and other additives. So you don't really get an 87 octane, you get a lower number. That is how it was explained to me.

SaltySal
Explorer
Explorer
Well Done! Thanks for sharing.
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Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Robbie S wrote:
... I put 92 and stabilizer in when they are going to sit. Once started they run rough till the gas goes through. One more tank of 92 and then I switch to 89 and they usually run great.
I do not understand why "Once started they run rough till the gas goes through."

Why would you run two tanks of 92, then switch to 89?

I took my carburetor apart for cleaning about five or six years ago. I thought it needed cleaning, but only needed to remove the water from it. I have been running 87 in it since it was new.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke