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Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!

AISURFFISH
Explorer
Explorer
I wanted to share a bit of my time and knowledge of the Honda 2000 I generator. I know that this time of year we all want to get things started and dont want to have the hassle of needing our Honda and having it not work. Here is a 30 minute fix up that will get you going.
This is a simple Carb cleaning and maintenance.
First empty old fuel by tilting the genny over and getting all of the old stuff out of there.


First remove the side panel

Then remove the Air Cleaner cover. one flat head screw.

Using an 8mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt.

Once the hardware is removed pull off the air clean box, intake manifold and the breather tube. These 3 parts can be removed in one big piece. You can see where the breather tube goes in photo below.

The breather tube runs into the engine body here.

All 3 parts removed and set aside.

First remove the fuel line.
Slide the Carb off of the two bolts that will remain in the block of the engine. I like to leave the cable attached. This is the Eco Throttle. If you remove it you will have a spring shoot off and if you do manage to find it you most likely won't figure out how to put it back without a trip to a Honda dealer. It's just easier to leave on.

Front side of Carb.

Engine with the parts removed. This is a good time to drain the oil and fill it back up.


These photos show the position of the vent tubes so you can see where they are form replacing. Go ahead and remove the tubes now. Using a 10mm socket remover the float bowl nut. It's the Brass one seen above in the middle of the float bowl.

You can now see the float. The float pivots on a pin it is simply slid out for removal of the float. The float moves up and down and shuts off the fuel to the bowl. The bowl will most likely show signs of rust and will need a good cleaning. There is an o-ring gasket there, you can usually reuse this gasket.

Here the float have been removed.

The main jet is in the tube shown. Use a skinny screw driver and remove the jet and 2 parts will fall out. These are almost always full of gunk. Use a Carb cleaner in a can and blow these parts out really good. Take extra time this is the heart of the Carb.

These are how the parts go back in. Order and direction is important.

At this point use the carb cleaner and spray all of the inner parts of the float area and spray ino any holes you see. Spray into the holes while moving throttle plates and choke plates. You basically want to exercise all moving parts and get the cleaner into everywhere.
At this point put everything back together on the carb in reverse order and put the vents tubes back on.
Slide the Carb back onto the 2 bolts and then run the vent tubes back into the Genset case. As shown below.


Shown about is the Carb back on with the tubes re-run.



These photos show the bolts going back in and the final steps to getting it back to running order.

At this point you can change the plug and give her a pull!!!

I hope this has been informative.

To those of you that will be attending the Mid Atlantic Truck Camper Rally Just ask and I can walk you though this in no time. And maybe throw in a quick seminar if enough folks are interested in seeing it done.
2017 F350 6.2L Crew Cab

Arctic Fox 990 2021 TORK-LIFT FAST GUNS AND SUPER HITCH
COOLER RACK OFF THE FRONT ALWAYS FULL OF FISHING RODS TICA TO BE EXACT

235 REPLIES 235

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
It has been quite a while sense I had my carb apart, so I can't answer your question.

Send bigfootford a PM, he has had his carb apart several times, and I think he had a tough time with the tube the first time. He might point you to the solution.

I still am wondering why you need to remove the tube?

This site will give you a complete carb break down. If your particular model is not at this link, you can find it at this site.

CARBURETOR Diagram


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

dreamco
Explorer
Explorer
There is a little brass 'nipple' sticking through the inside of the card; it looks like its coming in from the main jet / main nozzle port...is that one end of the emulsion tube? Can I press on it and pop it out?

dreamco
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1 wrote:
I would put the carb in a pot of very warm water for a few minutes. I think maybe the carb will expand more than the tube. Other than that, blow the carb out with air, reassemble it, and go back to it when you have more time. Be careful you do not blow the tube out and loose it.

Wayne


I was hoping to leave the eco throttle cable / wiring connected at the top of the carb as suggested in the first post. I've been trying to blow it out for hours..I don't think it's even budged. At this point the easier route may be to screw a very small ez-out screw extractor down the center hole and just order an new main nozzle / elusion tube. I just hope I'm able to remove any and all debris that falls in the carb as a result of using the screw extractor.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would put the carb in a pot of very warm water for a few minutes. I think maybe the carb will expand more than the tube. Other than that, blow the carb out with air, reassemble it, and go back to it when you have more time. Be careful you do not blow the tube out and loose it.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

dreamco
Explorer
Explorer
I'm having a big problem getting the emulsion tube out...it's obviously gummed up good. I've tried blowing compressed air through all ports...I even cranked up my compressor to 160psi and still nothing. I've tried tapping on the port that it's stuck in hoping to jar it lose and nothing. Is their another trick? I need help fast as I have my gen apart and I need it for a trip we're leaving for tomorrow.

Thanks!

P.S. -
AWESOME THREAD!

AISURFFISH
Explorer
Explorer
Bumped Because someone asked me how to look for it again this was just easier..

BUMP
2017 F350 6.2L Crew Cab

Arctic Fox 990 2021 TORK-LIFT FAST GUNS AND SUPER HITCH
COOLER RACK OFF THE FRONT ALWAYS FULL OF FISHING RODS TICA TO BE EXACT

dieseldan723
Explorer
Explorer
I need to do this. Mine will only run if it is on half choke.
Currently looking for my next RV....

SOLD
2014 Keystone Fuzion 301 towed by 07 GMC Sierra 2500HD Classic CCSB 4X4
2012 Komfort 3530FBH towed by 08 Chevy 3500HD DRW
2006 Forest River Cardinal 33TBH towed by 03 GMC 2500HD

Prodigy 3 brake controller

DV_PA_RVer
Explorer
Explorer
My circa-2003 Honda EU2000i had been giving me problems after sitting for an extended period of time. I'd tried Sea Foam, but it still wouldn't run on anything but a full choke. I was considering taking the generator to my local small-engine repair shop but saw this thread and figured I'd give it a try first.

I drained the old fuel and ran through the procedure. There was loads of gunk and rust particles in the sediment bowl. It looks like the sediment bowl is corroding. I thoroughly cleaned everything, and re-assembled.

It started, but I was getting fuel running down the side of the engine. Turns out I didn't go nearly tight enough on the carb nuts. Tightened them down and now it's running great, all for the cost of a can of carb cleaner and some elbow grease.

I had a pressure washer with a Honda GX200 engine that wouldn't stay running either, so since I had everything out, I cleaned the carb on that too, and now it works fine.

Another thumbs up to a great set of instructions.
2001 E150 Chateau Club Wagon 5.4 V8
2006 Trail-Cruiser C-191

birdsong10us
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you, thank you...(still feeling a bit proud) It was really all very simple now that I look back at it.
Those instructions were amazing and how thankful I am to those people that take time to help others.

I telephoned the local repair center and was told minimum of 3-4 weeks and many $$$$.....HaHaHa!!!!I feel good!

jimintomah
Explorer
Explorer
birdsong10us,
Nice job, I'm going to show this to my wife for inspiration. I did the carb job back in August of 2010 according to the guide posted by AISURFFISH in the beginning of this thread. It's has worked prefectly. I went so far as to print the instructions and put it with my owners manual, I'm sure I will be doing it again.
Jim
Jim & Kathy & The Dog
2019 Winnebago Adventurer 35F

birdsong10us
Explorer
Explorer
Yeah...Taking a bow! My FIRST carburetor job!!! Wouldn't start after working on it for most of the day...I think I have pulled that cord well over a 100 times...taking apart the case was like a cartoon in itself. Thankfully found the video that showed the two long screws from the rear. DUH sigh..difficult when you are working with someone with "all the answers"....anyway...Cleaned the fuel filter also but wouldn't start. At dark thirty with one last attempt I insisted on removing the carb and following ALL of the directions with cleaning out the jet too. Doing the happy Dance!!!! Started with the very first pull. Oh yes, found some trash in the bowl that my SO didn't want to remove and clean also earlier.
You guys are the greatest! My genny and I are happy!!!
By the way...I am a 60 year old woman that has never done anything like this before...proves all you have to do is try! ๐Ÿต

birdsong10us
Explorer
Explorer
Have been eagerly reading all that I could about servicing this Gen. Mine is 7 years old and has never been serviced! It has always started first pull so it was a surprise when it grumbled and died! Cleaned the carb (however didn't get into the jet part as S.O. said it wasn't gunked up!) replaced fuel, and spark plug. Have spark but sounds like its starved for fuel. Once got it to run for a moment but only weakly.
Should I look at the fuel filter? Have to add that it has run @ 1/2 throttle for years...only recently did it start to surge sometimes. Must add...I'm female and motors aren't my thing but I'm willing to learn! My little genny goes horse camping with me and powers all of my electric yard tools! We are companions!!

Wrkn2mch
Explorer
Explorer
Best tip i can give you is to run it once a month for 1/2 hour (every month without fail), eco-off and under a 1500 watt load like a small ceramic heater on high. this will keep the fuel in the bottom of the bowl moving so that sediment doesn't collect there.Some Sta-Bil or seafoam in the fuel is good too if you don't use it much and the fuel will be in it for a while.
Joe

DLW
Explorer
Explorer
For the record, my 2000I got difficult to start, then started surging on eco thottle. I didn't feel good about cleaning it myself so I took it to local authorized shop - quoted $85, two weeks later after the trip without it, picked it up - bill $185. Ran ragged - two months later now surging on eco and normal. Never again - letter to Honda to follow!

Gonna run the seafoam first after cleaning up fuel, then she comes apart on my bench if not better.

Want it done right - well you know!!

Great little machine but one really must watch the clean/stale fuel issue.

Thanks for great post !
Gean. Larry & Roxie
Chevy 3500 4WD/HD/DW Crew DuraMax Allison B&W Hitch
AVION 37 - W4AUE 146.52

coolbreeze01
Explorer
Explorer
Two years ago, I drained the gas and put my 2000i in its box. Today I put some gas in it, applied the choke, and in about 5 pulls it started and ran just fine. Good equipment :C
2008 Ram 3500 With a Really Strong Tractor Motor...........
LB, SRW, 4X4, 6-Speed Auto, 3.73, Prodigy P3, Blue Ox Sway Pro........
2014 Sandsport 26FBSL