With 'two rubber reset buttons' you have a Suburban Brand (always nice to post brand/model cause they are different)
Left reset is for 120V AC electric element
Right side is for 12V DC---propane
Resets are for Hi temp t-stat (they trip at 170/180*F if normal fails to open at 130*F)
Fault light......
No DC power
Main flame fails to light
You get fault light immediately........but does it attempt to light and fails? (some have light come on until flame happens---then comes back on if flame fails)
If no spark/no flame then you have no DC power
DC power comes from DC Dist Panel (Fuse) goes to ON/OFF switch then to DC Junction Box (on back of WH tank) then to the set of t-stats then to circuit board for gas valve & spark.
Easiest place to check for DC is at set of t-stats
Remove reset cover
Right side RED wire to top t-stat....measure for 12V DC going in (No DC IN.....then junction box connection/bad switch/blown fuse)
Then RED wire at bottom t-stat..measure for 12V DC coming out (No DC OUT...then bad set of t-stats-------YES DC OUT then check connections at circuit board/dirty=loose etc)
That is IF connecting wore between top/bottom t-stats isn't burnt into
Is it time for your medication or mine?
2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31