House Battery Disconnect Not Working

[mando_man]

I have a 2008 Itasca Impulse 31C. The house battery disconnect stopped working a few years ago. I replaced the switch and it still didn't work. I'm now getting some free time on my hands and wanting to fix this. I found, what I think is the battery disconnect relay? (see picture) According the wiring diagram, there's a 5AMP fuse. From pictures I've seen of a new relay, there's two 5AMP fuses. Looking at mine, it looks like the right one is missing. Could this be my issue? Could it really be that simple?

[dougrainer]

mando_man wrote:
Sorry for not having any updates. Unfortunately life has been a little busy the past few days. To answer a few of the questions:

-I've been checking I and S wrong. I'll do this again

-There is a click when pressing the disconnect button. But it's hard to tell if it's coming from the relay or the solenoid.

There is NO relay. BUT, you need to have your hand on the solenoid and have someone engage the pushbutton. You will feel the bump if that solenoid clicks. Doug

[mando_man]

Sorry for not having any updates. Unfortunately life has been a little busy the past few days. To answer a few of the questions:

-I've been checking I and S wrong. I'll do this again

-There is a click when pressing the disconnect button. But it's hard to tell if it's coming from the relay or the solenoid.

[dougrainer]

When you engage the inside disconnect button. DOES THE SOLENOID ITSELF CLICK? If so, you have a BAD solenoid. There is a copper disc inside the solenoid that is moved up and down to connect the 2 large posts and then moves down(away) to disconnect the two large posts. If it clicks the system is doing what it needs to do. The Solenoid is NOT doing what it needs to do, because it is defective. Doug

[opnspaces]

mando_man wrote:
Yes, I had a helper with this. I put the meter across the small terminals in the front according to the service manual. But I'm getting zero volts.

Are you checking from I to ground and S to ground? Checking from I to S will get 0 volts because they are both positive 12 volts.

[enblethen]

Diagram shows as a 40 amp which would be power to slide.
The battery disconnect provides power to all items in chassis control box.

[mando_man]

OK...So with the wiring diagram provided by enblethen, it shows that the solenoid also provides power to slideout. Is that for the slideout to actually move, or to provide power to lights and outlets? If the solenoid was bad, would I not be able to move my slideout or not have power to outlets/lights?

[enblethen]

2008 Itasca wiring diagram

[dougrainer]

enblethen wrote:
That means the switch or wiring is issue.
Remove the switch from the wall to gain access to terminals.
The both sets of end pins should have 12-volts DC. Switch should have opposite corners of switch jumper to reverse voltage polarity.
The center two pins should have 12-volts DC when switch is pushed.
see page five for basic wiring.manual
I didn't know Aloha still existed! Raised in Beaverton!

Be advised that the link to Intellitec is for 2020. The OP has a 2008. The difference is, in 2008, there was NO ignition blue wire. But the rest of the diagram is correct. 2 wires OFF the fuses. RED should have 12 volt power all the time. The GREEN should only have Power when the solenoid is closed(engaged). So, make sure the small red on bottom of fuse is 12 volts. IF the solenoid clicks, that points to a BAD solenoid. It also states 7.5 amp fuses. The OLDER system uses 5 amp fuses. The pic shows yellow wiring from Itasca. Some OEM's used their OWN wiring colors to the disconnect fuses and may not be yellow and green. Doug

[enblethen]

That means the switch or wiring is issue.
Remove the switch from the wall to gain access to terminals.
The both sets of end pins should have 12-volts DC. Switch should have opposite corners of switch jumper to reverse voltage polarity.
The center two pins should have 12-volts DC when switch is pushed.
see page five for basic wiring.manual
I didn't know Aloha still existed! Raised in Beaverton!

[mando_man]

Yes, I had a helper with this. I put the meter across the small terminals in the front according to the service manual. But I'm getting zero volts.

[enblethen]

You are having a helper push switch and hold for short time to get reading?
With meter across small terminals, you will get either positive 12- volt reading or negative reading.

[mando_man]

OK, checked wire that looked like it was somehow going in with the fuse on the left, it isn't. Fuse looks good. Added fuse on the right and no change. Checked voltage on I and S according to service manual recommended by enblethen and voltage sits at zero when engaging/disengaging cutoff switch. When pressing switch, you do hear a loud click. When checking other connections, I'm getting 12.4-12.7v.

I haven't had time to clean the terminals yet, was looking at this with my neighbor on lunch. I'll see if I have time after work to do some cleaning. It's a tight space, not so fun to work in.

[wnjj]

The fuse for the solenoid probably blew before and someone just grabbed the one from the LED indicator (the right side missing one) to replace the blown one. Adding the one back probably will not help, but the obvious question is: Is the existing fuse still good?

[dougrainer]

MOST, (not all) Intellitec Solenoids have 2- 5 amp fuses. I would install a fuse in the empty slot and see what happens on the disconnect. ADDING that fuse will not cause any harm. Doug