cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

How I remove and install axle grease caps

RVcircus
Explorer II
Explorer II
Short and sweet...60 seconds. Not much to write here so just posting a link to the video.

If you have any tips to do it easier chime in. I'm certainly no mechanic, but this has been working well for me.

https://youtu.be/xoT8xmbBKcw
2000 KZ Sportsman 2505 (overhauled & upgraded 2014)
2016 Chevy Express 3500 15 passanger van
6 humans, 2 cats, and a dog
Visit our blog at www.ROWLESmade.com
Our trailer re-build thread
27 REPLIES 27

ernie1
Explorer
Explorer
Westend thanks for the info. Hoping for the best.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
ernie1 wrote:
Mex,
Today I just put in new wheel bearings for my rv and always wondered whether one should pack grease in the hub area between the inner and outer bearings and also how much. I asked around and got a variety of answers but none really definitive. So, today I packed the heck out of the hubs and am hoping for the best. Are you saying it's not necessary, not a good idea or it doesn't make any difference with the new greases?
Packing the area between the two bearings will do a couple of things: It prevents less rust to form in the hub. It will allow grease to melt/flow that is not inside the bearing.

As the bearings warm up grease flows within the bearing. It also heats that adjacent grease that you packed into the hub middle. That heated grease just outside the bearing now can flow to the bearing surfaces.

If you absolutely filled the entire hub, you may see that your dustcaps are moving. I'd pull them now and then to remove the grease inside.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

ernie1
Explorer
Explorer
Mex,
Today I just put in new wheel bearings for my rv and always wondered whether one should pack grease in the hub area between the inner and outer bearings and also how much. I asked around and got a variety of answers but none really definitive. So, today I packed the heck out of the hubs and am hoping for the best. Are you saying it's not necessary, not a good idea or it doesn't make any difference with the new greases?

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
If from the inside a good splotch of grease seals the hole then Clay Smith's trick will work fine. The days of Hectorite clay based greases* is long gone. What these greases did was wick oil from a remote clot of grease and keep a bearing well lubricated. Meaning the area between the inner and outer bearings could be packed with grease and last a long, long, time. That doesn't work any more so putting extra grease in the hub cavity is a waste of money.

*Example: Shell Oil's Darina AX.

Clay_Smith
Explorer
Explorer
While on the subject of grease caps, I have one more tip.
We have all seen how the grease always pushes past the seal at the spindle. This is only natural as the internal pressure increases with temperature or altitude. On all of my vehicles (except boat trailers) the first time I remove the grease cap, I place it on a hard service with the open end up and with a center punch I nock a pin hole into the center of it. The hole is so tiny that you should only see it when you hold it up to the sun.
Being the hole is so tiny, dirt and water don't pass, only air. So now as the internal pressure would otherwise increase, the air can now escape without pushing the grease past the seal.
In over 30 years of doing this, I have never experienced any ill effect or anymore grease leaking past the seals. I hope that many of you will appreciate this idea.
Just don't do this on a boat trailer, that is where you want to use the "Bearing-Buddy" to keep from sucking in water as you back the hot hubs into the cold water.

RVcircus
Explorer II
Explorer II
dougrainer wrote:
The Video shows REPLACING the Grease caps. WHO CARES if you Gorilla (dent/destroy) the olds ones OFF??????????????????????? You are replacing the caps. Now, if you are NOT replacing them, the Video is a good video. Doug


Thanks Doug! The old bearing buddies were trash bound and I don't think I hurt their feelings by hitting them with a hammer;)
2000 KZ Sportsman 2505 (overhauled & upgraded 2014)
2016 Chevy Express 3500 15 passanger van
6 humans, 2 cats, and a dog
Visit our blog at www.ROWLESmade.com
Our trailer re-build thread

johntank
Explorer
Explorer
RVhiker wrote:
I put a medium sized slot screwdriver where the lip of the cap meets the axle and tap gently; the cap separates a bit and then the screwdriver can pry off the cap. I use a gently applied rubber mallet to tap the cap back on. My caps don't dent, and they last forever. Of course, dented they last forever, too.


Same here

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer



Yeah Baby! Go For It!

My dim bulb neighbor had (past tense) a Subaru. Wouldn't listen about taking it to the local mechanic. Macho eh?. So he tries to replace a drive axle. Bearing cap was stubborn. So he takes a 12 pound sledge and goes to work. Snaps off the grease cover and end of spindle. Tow truck arrives, the hulk is on it's way to a blast furnace. Smirk? Who? Me?

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
The Video shows REPLACING the Grease caps. WHO CARES if you Gorilla (dent/destroy) the olds ones OFF??????????????????????? You are replacing the caps. Now, if you are NOT replacing them, the Video is a good video. Doug

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
Channellocks! One of those tool brands where nobody else's is as good. Same with Vise Grip.

Rock the cap off with Channellocks or tap the screwdriver into the parting line of cap and hub.

Tap back on. If it won't go, can use the screwdriver to transfer the tapping to the rim that all these caps seem to have at the parting line.

Channellocks also work down in the front hub of dual rear wheel chassis.

If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
77 ways to change a light-bulb

SaltiDawg
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Channel locks to remove

Rubber mallet to install


Yup! I believe that's the reason god invented those two tools.

RVhiker
Explorer
Explorer
I put a medium sized slot screwdriver where the lip of the cap meets the axle and tap gently; the cap separates a bit and then the screwdriver can pry off the cap. I use a gently applied rubber mallet to tap the cap back on. My caps don't dent, and they last forever. Of course, dented they last forever, too.
There's lots of advice and information in forums...
sometimes it is correct.

2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2008 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab; Duramax/Allison; Pullrite 14k Superglide Hitch

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
In the video the one he took off doesn't look at all like the new one.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman