Intellitec Shedding

[Griffin_sride]

I'm running 30amp service but I have a cheater on the rear AC to the pedestal 20amp so the 30 amp is only powering the coach and the front AC. No matter what I do the front AC it's going into shid every 3 to 5 minutes. The hot water heater is on gas and so is the refrigerator. If I flip the test switch on the controller to front it will go into high cool and run fine. Does anyone know if running in this mode risk any damage to the front AC?
As a side note the front AC is brand new and a high efficiency unit. On the meter only draws around 10-12.5amps on high cool.
The controller acted up last year and the technician said the controller under the refrigerator needed to be replaced but it quit acting up and hadn't had any problems until now. I'm basically looking to get through Memorial Day weekend and don't want to burn up a brand-new air-conditioner.

[wa8yxm]

Ok, you need to understand how the Intelletec works, then modify your RV some

how does it decide if you are on 30 or 50 amps?

50 amp service is 50 amps at 240 volt divided... There are two hot legs, the voltage L-1 to L-2 is 240 volts There is exactly one thing in your rv that actually uses 240 volts.. The Intelletec Load Shedder.. now it does not use much (Mill-amp or so) but that's how it decides "AH, 50 Amps" and takes the day off.

Since you are using a cheater on a 30 amp box.. There is no second leg.. So you have a total of 50 amps at 120 volts Divided between the two legs.. But the Leg to Leg voltage is zero.. So the computer (Load shedder) says Oh darn, 30 amps, I got to go to work.


The solution.....

Find the power lead to ONE (Rear is usually the one chosen) A/C.. using 12ga cord and proper junction boxes bring this cord out to somewhere you can access (on my rig it is a special panel/compartment (Actually a water door). Bring both the A/C power lead and a lead from it's "Source" See line drawing below


Original My Rir: Breaker-------------------A/C
your rig: Intelletec control---------------A/c

Current
My Rig Breaker----Outlet/Plug------x-----AC/C (I simply disconnected at the breaker, The "X" is actually a junction box)

I think you can figure out what to do.

Now, on a 30 amp site, I plug in the RV but unplug the Rear A/C at the plug/outlet... Then using a 12 GA cord plug ingo the 20 amp hole in the box

NOTE: Many campgrounds the 20 amp hole in teh box is a GFCI.. the standard "Cheater" will trip it, fast.. My system does not.

Actually this is based on a product that used to sell for 90 bucks from a web site www psrv com Alas, it's now 404

[CA_Traveler]

Doug has a good point. You can also just move the front A/C hot wire and bypass the shed relay and then see if the relay still clicks.

Also try a reset. Remove the negative battery cable for 5 minutes.

[dougrainer]

Intellitec EMS systems use the WHITE main Neutral as the amp draw sensor. So, since you have wired in some type of BYPASS to run your Rear AC on the 20 amp pedestal plug, that makes it hard to determine if YOU are causing the problem. How did you wire the Rear AC to that pole 20 amp to bypass? In other words, how you rewired may have something to do with your problem-----The EMS Neutral may still be seeing a over 30 amp draw. Doug

[Mandalay_Parr]

Shouldn't hurt it.

[1492]

Moved from Forum Technical Support

[Griffin_sride]

Been running for 24 hours and still shedding regularly. Breakers are cool to the touch. System isn't overloaded at all. It's a controller problem. Just wanted any info if running in test mode could damage the unit. Everything I read says it just puts the ac in high cool. Not sure what it'll do if I leave it in test mode for a few hours?

[YC_1]

Feel your circuit breaker panel. If you are in a really hot area etc the circuit breaker panel may be getting too hot. My panel is in the bedroom closet and the face would get hot to the touch. I spaced the cover panel out about 1/8 inch and it runs cool now.

The EMS does an average thing over three hours and can really reduce the point where it sheds.