Internal fuse for the WFCO 55 Amp Converter?

[rjsurfer]

I just noticed that I'm not charging the batteries when hooked up to the power pole. The batteries are down to 12.0v, they should be showing at least 13.4v.

The 12 volt DC output is fine, all the lights work as does the fridge and propane detector etc.

My question, is there a fuse in the converter box, I can't see because it's a closed box not like my old open frame converter?

I'm assuming I could buy a battery charger to charge the batteries until I figure out the problem. The biggest issue would be letting the batteries get too low and prevent the slides and landing gear from working?

Any help wuld be appreciated.

Ron W.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

After inrush which might be as much as 8 amps to charge the capacitors for less than a second many converters draw about 20 watts not connected to load or battery.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

5-amps. Probably one of the handiest accessories I own.

Use with a disconnected secondary leg of the charger/inverter/any load.

Take the breaker, and make two foot-long pigtails. Use .250" push-on fully insulated terminals. Other end use two good quality alligator clips. I like to put the very common alligator clip rubber shields over the clips.

Energize the converter.

Keep one hand handy to disconnect your temporary power to the converter, You can yank on this circuit breaker to disconnect one or both alligator clips but you must then follow through and safely disconnect the other clip as it might be live and angry enough to kill you if you touch the exposed alligator clip. I yank the wall plug powering the circuit breaker.

[BFL13]

The story was just that if one fuse blew, you should replace them all. Was no talk of that being a waste of time and just toss out the converter. Doug has raised this as new info AFAIK. Not sure it is exactly correct, or if just when he has had it happen.

Some converters like the hard-wired 7300s have their RP fuses over on the DC fuse panel, while deck-mounted ones have them right on the converter. The total of the RP fuses in amps being more than the converter's amp rating.

I don't know how they do it in an inverter/charger. Many plain inverters have no RP protection.

[time2roll]

road-runner wrote:
I'm also interested in further info about the converter being bad if the fuses are blown.

I think the idea is that the converter could still be damaged even if the fuses open.
Are you feeling lucky? I don't recommend testing it.

[road-runner]

I'm also interested in further info about the converter being bad if the fuses are blown.

[BFL13]

dougrainer wrote:
1. IF the reverse polarity fuses blow, the Converter will be bad. They do NOT protect from damaging the Converter from reverse polarity.
2. Do NOT replace with a WFCO if the Converter is a stand alone. ANY other brand will be better and more reliable. Doug

Can you please elaborate on why the RP fuses don't protect the converter. First I have heard of that; want to know more. Thanks.

[enblethen]

I would suggest this unit.
PD9260
I would do more testing before putting out the money. Have you reset the 120 volt circuit breakers? Verify power to the converter then check for output.
Finish your trip and then do it at home when rested!

[dougrainer]

1. IF the reverse polarity fuses blow, the Converter will be bad. They do NOT protect from damaging the Converter from reverse polarity.
2. Do NOT replace with a WFCO if the Converter is a stand alone. ANY other brand will be better and more reliable. Doug

[rjsurfer]

OP back.

Went to Wal-Mart and purchased the Schumacher SC-1281 battery charger just to get us through our vacation. I left my old charger out in the rain awhile ago so I needed another charger anyway.

I'll go ahead and order the Best Converter 55 Amp version and play with the installation after we get home. Access to the converter is very difficult so I stand a chance of screwing something else up.

Thanks for the help, have a good holiday.

Ron W.

[STBRetired]

Make sure that you have 120V at the converter. On my old converter (Todd Engineering) the fan ran off of the 12V side so it would run even if not connected to shore power. I believe that my current PD9280 behaves the same way. The converter is usually on its own circuit breaker in the 120V panel.

[BarabooBob]

My WFCO converter is headed to the trash as soon as the weather warms up a bit. I intentionally let the batteries get a little low before plugging it in and it would not charge at anything above 13.4. I would not get up to the advertised 14.7. I have a PD4135 sitting in the TT to install. I have a Viking 17FQ and we are very frugal with electricity so it should be big enough. All of my lights are LED.

[Almot]

...and if the fan (that comes on for 10 seconds) is indeed on the converter, - does the battery voltage rise to 13-something during those 10 seconds?

[enblethen]

There could be a main fuse in 12 volt DC panel for wire coming from the converter.

[Almot]

rjsurfer wrote:

Just looked at two fuses and they are good....and I'm getting 12.0 volts from the batteries.

Sure is looking like converter.

One thing, when I connect the battery the fan does come on for 10 seconds then stops. A clue?

What two fuses did you check? There are fuses on converter and also the trailer reset fuse closer to batteries, often in a box under the front frame.

What fan - on converter or some fan in trailer?

[rjsurfer]

time2roll wrote:

ItsyRV wrote:
Is your converter in a power center or is it a stand alone?

9855 is a deck mount

https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-9855-55-amp/

For the OP: Yes a portable battery charger will get you through the trip. Get at least 10 amps rated. Maybe 5 if you are a light user.

For eventual replacement I recommend a PD9245 or PD9260

http://www.bestconverter.com/9200-Series-Deck-Mount


Operates much better than the WFCO.

I agree the Best Converter option is a good one, I have never seen this WFCO go above 13.6

Ron W.