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More Solar for "Us"

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Ok, I went off.the deep end?
Bought 3 used 37watt uni-solar panels and a blue sky 2000e controller for the hefty price of $400,
They were being listed as 75w panels, they are not

The tested open circuit voltage was 21+, short circuit amps 2.9
I tested each panel multiple times tilted into the sun and laying flat on the ground , got the same readings each way, that was the deciding factor, they appear to put out full power while laying flat, I will try to mount them tomorrow before it gets hot, right now 104°F
I will use the existing wiring until I buy & install the new wire
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s
715 REPLIES 715

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
vcallaway wrote:
I'll take a stab at that answer, because we are doing the same.

Cooling unit in ours went out. $2k for a new one. By all reports the new ones wont last as long as our old one.

A 10 cu ft electric refrigerator can be had for less than $300. Home Depot has the Magic Chef for $298. I tested several and they all pretty much were ~ 500w startup, < 100w running. In 24hrs it was less than 1 kilowatt.

A true sinewave inverter to run it if you don't have one is $150 at camping world (Xantrex PROWatt SW 600). Adding a 175w Suntech solar panel to boost battery time ~ $315.

So for less money than a flaky refrigerator that does not do that good of job you can go electric. To me this was a no brainer.

For me it made even more sense. I already had a solar system in place and a 2k sinewave inverter.
Fixed that for you. :B

vcallaway
Explorer
Explorer
I'll take a stab at that answer, because we are doing the same.

Cooling unit in ours went out. $2k for a new one. By all reports the new ones wont last as long as our old one.

A 10 cu ft electric refrigerator can be had for less than $300. Home Depot has the Magic Chef for $298. I tested several and they all pretty much were ~ 500w startup, < 100w running. In 24hrs it was less than 1 kilowatt.

A true sinewave inverter to run it if you don't have one is $150 at camping world (Xantrex PROWatt SW 600). Adding a 130w Kyocera solar panel to boost battery time ~ $400.

So for less money than a flaky refrigerator that does not do that good of job you can go electric. To me this was a no brainer.

For me it made even more sense. I already had a solar system in place and a 2k sinewave inverter.
1989 Honey Maxum

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
greenrvgreen wrote:
Price/benefit wise, solar looks like its getting there, but I currently don't own enough roof space to make a difference I can appreciate.
It's pretty expensive and I don't know how much roof space you have but Suntech makes 280W panels. $613 each HERE.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
I got tired of "fridge repair" failures
the cost of a new propane fridge was $1300 or more,
the MH came with a 1000w inverter oem, so I decided a residential fridge and some solar would be the best way for us at approx the same expense but.spread out over a period of months, instead of one lump.sum
the fridge was $350
found my solar panels on craigslist
3 uni-solar panels + blue sky controller $400
another 2 uni-solar panels for $250
then 4 new 6v GC batteries from sams club
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
MrWizard,

I'm interested in why you went to a compressor refrigerator? I believe you're full-timing, so your reasons for switching are based on solid experience.

So far we've been completely happy with our propane refrig but the longest we've been out has been only 10 weeks continuous, so I wonder what refrigeration problems we have to look forward to.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

greenrvgreen
Explorer
Explorer
Senor Wiz--

Can you recap for me (and any other memory-challenged folks) how the cloudy/rainy day output compares with the sunny day output. Say, "Total capacity = X, sunny day output = %X, rainy day output = %X.

I can see my first step will be the resi fridge, the results are overwhelming and the upfront costs are minimal (although there looks to be a good deal of bother). Price/benefit wise, solar looks like its getting there, but I currently don't own enough roof space to make a difference I can appreciate.

Thanks again for the solar journal!

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Solar power total for six days of rainy weather Friday thru Wed
1120.7 watt hrs, 82.91 amp hrs

Watt was surprising, was during yesterdays "Wednesday" brief sunny period, the solar out put hit a peak of 16.61 amps 233.3 watts, likely it only lasted seconds,and I'm guessing it was the combined effect of three things clean rain washed panels, clear clean rain washed atmosphere, and the fridge cycling on causing a inverter surge with corresponding dip in battery voltage, letting the panels/controller hit a momentary peak

whatever the conditions causing this, it is the highest amps controller out put reading recorded so far
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Mr. Wiz,

I'm sorry the clouds didn't cooperate on the Solstice.

It is still useful data and does show that, even on a poor day, solar can make up for even 1% self discharge rates on a fairly massive battery bank (1300 amp-hours).
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
not the winter solstice I hoped for
But the solar added 13 amphrs today, bringing the 4 day rainy total to 56.59 amphrs and 741.xx watt hrs
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Mr. Wizard,

That's more or less 15 amp-hours per day and fits with what I got on Dec 22, 2009 which was 17 amp-hours on an overcast day.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
MrWizard wrote:
I wanted a sunny winter solstice for a solar reading
but it's been raining since Friday, right now thepanels are puting out 500ma, total for the last three days is 46.?? amp hrs

maybe xmas day or xmas eve we will get a day of sun


Not much use after Rudolf stomps on your panels. BTW Santa changed Rudolf's nose to LED after reading this forum on that.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
I wanted a sunny winter solstice for a solar reading
but it's been raining since Friday, right now thepanels are puting out 500ma, total for the last three days is 46.?? amp hrs

maybe xmas day or xmas eve we will get a day of sun
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
I haven't tried to calculate fuel savings
the 6.5kw Onan is powered by propane, inconvenient and sometimes exspendsive to purchase and burns about 0.7 gal per hour, so 4 hours charge cost 2.8 gal of propane
, I prefer to use my champion portable generator, approx 4 hours of charge time per gal of gasoline fuel
it does seem I'm saving about an avg of 1.5 hour of generator runtime per day, somedays I save more some days less, weather, errands, chores etc..
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

toolman1
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi toolman1,

A layer of plastic may not be optically "clear". If you want tempered glass panels there are many brands available, that have higher output per square foot than the unisolar.


My "main" concern would be scratching, and ruining the entire PV panel. I really wouldn't care if it was Plexiglass/tempered glass/safety glass. Any of those would be better than ruining a perfectly good PV panel while using chicken wire for protection. That's my main point.
See ya out there!!
Hooliville member #128

Gary & Lynne.
'04 Dolphin 5320 WH-22 370W Solar
22' Mighty Mover Trailer, 60W. Solar.
Sand Sprite 4. 2.3L EFI sand buggy
'91 Toyota 4X4 longbed Truck
2011 Black Lab "Lucy" for both of us :B

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi toolman1,

A layer of plastic may not be optically "clear". If you want tempered glass panels there are many brands available, that have higher output per square foot than the unisolar.

My unisolars show no signs of scratching. (touch wood {oops that's my head})

toolman1 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Although they are shade tolerant I would NOT put anything over them and especially not chicken wire that would cause minor shading to the entire panel.


I know that there are many posts/replys, since this was posted, (I have no internet service @ work) 😞

My concern would be the chicken wire scratching the PV surface and ruining the panel(s). Wouldn't a plexiglass sheet or suitable substitute work better?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.