New Meter on order

[MrWizard]

wireless power meter

Volts , Amps, KwHr, AmpHr, capacity, SOC, etc...



sender and hall effect coil go at battery

display goes where-ever (as long as in signal range)

No pulling wires between the (2) pieces

going to mount sender at the battery (of course)

going to put display over the fridge where the fuse box and breakers are

the furnace is under the fridge, and no easy way to pull wire inside from the battery in basement or the OEM house mount up front behind the grill

converter is in basement, with my add-on 4D agm

meter should arrive middle next week

$40 on ebay

I went looking after remembering somebody (Mexi?) had posted a link many months back

[K_and_I]

GaryS1953 wrote:
I have one more question. My sending unit has the cables on the end that go to the hall sensor, but it also has one long black cable that doesn't seem to be addressed in the bad copy of the instructions that I have. Any idea's on that? Temperature sensor maybe? If so, where does that connect?

If I'm not mistaken, that is an antenna for the wifi connection between the board and the meter. I just wound mine loosely around inside the weatherproof box.

[GaryS1953]

LittleBill wrote:
did anyone buy the 200 amp shunt? or do you all the 100 amp version, i have tried all over the place but no one will tell me if the 200a shunt will measure milliamps.

Hi Bill,

I have the 200 amp meter, but unless I'm mistaken, the meters in this thread only use a hall sensor, not a shunt.

[LittleBill]

did anyone buy the 200 amp shunt? or do you all the 100 amp version, i have tried all over the place but no one will tell me if the 200a shunt will measure milliamps.

[GaryS1953]

I have one more question. My sending unit has the cables on the end that go to the hall sensor, but it also has one long black cable that doesn't seem to be addressed in the bad copy of the instructions that I have. Any idea's on that? Temperature sensor maybe? If so, where does that connect?

[GaryS1953]

K_and_I wrote:
It's been some time since I installed mine, but, if I remember correctly, you can power the meter off of the board if they are close enough together to be practical. I bought a cheap 12v - 5v adapter off of Ebay and powered my meter from that. I don't remember using a separate 12v wire into the weatherproof box I used. I think the board used the power wire for voltage testing. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks K_and_I , but I'm just talking about the display unit for USB power, but turns out since it's USB any 5 common 5 volt USB port will work I think. Thanks!

[GaryS1953]

MrWizard wrote:
Only 2 wires connect the main unit to the battery bank, this supplies both power and voltage measuring

Hmm, OK, then I assume I just connect the voltage testing leads?

[K_and_I]

It's been some time since I installed mine, but, if I remember correctly, you can power the meter off of the board if they are close enough together to be practical. I bought a cheap 12v - 5v adapter off of Ebay and powered my meter from that. I don't remember using a separate 12v wire into the weatherproof box I used. I think the board used the power wire for voltage testing. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[GaryS1953]

Oops, answered part of my own question I think. Any USB port provides 5 volts, so no need for a converter?

[MrWizard]

Only 2 wires connect the main unit to the battery bank, this supplies both power and voltage measuring yes the display section uses 5v

[GaryS1953]

Hi Guys - I've had my meter for some time, but because the hall sensor and sending unit need to be weather protected I've not gotten around to installing it yet, but will be attempting today. I just wanted to confirm that I am understanding correctly that the display unit must be powered by 5 volts USB, requiring a 12 volt to 5 volt converter? Also, the sender itself needs to have BOTH voltage testing connection to the battery, AND separate power connection to the battery bank for self power? My meter came with a VERY poor copy of the Chinglesh instructions.

Thanks very much for any help!

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I've seen folks get along fine on 3 amp-hours per night and others who burn 95 amp hours without breaking a sweat. Impossible to forecast for another person.

Thirty years ago I was eating under the luminance of a dozen 5mm white LEDs my how times have changed.

[K_and_I]

Thanks for the replies. We intend to be on full hookups for the next few nights, and use an electric space heater, so the trailer furnace will not need to be run. If my meter is accurate, the 2 amp maintainer will keep up with loads most of the time. I'm still hoping Best Converter will have an answer for us, as we will be boon docking some in the future.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

IMHO Emergencies are just that -- must have's period. This is a clear case of where a smart charger will do the job because you will be on shore power, not a generator.

But a tiny charger ain't gonna cut it.

If you need the rig's heater and night this may make things more challenging. A supplemental AC heater will allow you to satisfy your needs with a smaller, more affordable smart charger.

You do not need full batteries in the morning. you need enough charge to allow your rig to start and then charge while you drive. A 25 - 40 amp smart charger would be plenty, even if you use the rig's heater.

[CA_Traveler]

Try a good battery shop and see if they can help with a charger. Auto stores are typically not a good battery shop. Consider a converter ie as in constant voltage set to say 13.6V. Adjustable voltage type would be even better. Just some thoughts.

[CA_Traveler]

I'm not up to speed on some of the newer smart chargers. I'd look for one that charges in the vehicle where there will be loads going on/off like opening doors or turning something on/off.

I have a older charger at home that is not so smart and charges 24/7. Several years ago I bought a newer one when my Magnum failed. But only used it for a few days so I'm not so smart on it's smarts. 😞