I tried to find one that looks like this that is considered "continuous duty" but failed. I have to assssssume the one pictured is a starter motor use relay. Maybe 1.2 ohms resistance across the magnetic coil.
If this rig is a pusher diesel with larger than a seven liter diesel engine, it would require an expensive relay like this to power the jump start which can range to 500+ amps and even more than that in cold weather.
This is an image of a 200-amp bi-directional SMART relay which would pass the power of all but the largest alternators.
With a 7.0+ liter diesel engine I would not elect to use the "feature" of this smart relay to jump start from bank to bank. I would retain the relay what is featured in this thread. Two relays each best suited for it's purpose.
By selecting the BI-Directional model relay the relay will operate and pass current no matter which direction the power is coming from -- alternator or converter. This keeps chassis and hotel batteries happy.
If this rig is a pusher diesel with larger than a seven liter diesel engine, it would require an expensive relay like this to power the jump start which can range to 500+ amps and even more than that in cold weather.
This is an image of a 200-amp bi-directional SMART relay which would pass the power of all but the largest alternators.
With a 7.0+ liter diesel engine I would not elect to use the "feature" of this smart relay to jump start from bank to bank. I would retain the relay what is featured in this thread. Two relays each best suited for it's purpose.
By selecting the BI-Directional model relay the relay will operate and pass current no matter which direction the power is coming from -- alternator or converter. This keeps chassis and hotel batteries happy.
Mexicowanderer, here is a picture of the unit that came with the coach, appears to be the unit I ordered.
Joeycockerspaniel wrote:
OK, here is what has apparently happened. My coach has a battery isolator solenoid. That solenoid should charge both house and chassis sets of batteries when either set require it. The coach has been plugged in all winter to the in-house float charging system. For ten years, that has kept both sets charged while the coach has not been in use. I replaced all my batteries a little over a year ago. The chassis batteries were almost completely discharged, even while the coach has been plugged in. I highly suspect that the battery isolator unit has gone bad. It no longer charges both sets of batteries, house and chassis, only the house batteries. So now, if recharging the chassis batteries does not work, I will not only have to replace the isolotor solenoid, but also two year-old chassis batteries. Here is the unit I just ordered. https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/battery-boost-solenoid-1500-amps-intermittent-duty Thanks for the help. Hopefully this will remedy the problem.
Why don't you simply buy a "battery maintainer"?
You already have shore power and battery maintainers are designed to trickle charge your battery.
You can hookup to your chassis batteries then plug maintainer into one of the 120V outlets in you coach.
Can leave in circuit so no muss no fuss.
BATTERY TENDER
If you don't like the Tenders price, you can buy a Harbor Freight version for $10 or less (although you might wish to add in a series diode on the HF one to prevent battery drain in the event of power outages).
