Norcold 6162 won't stay lit . Cleaned the burner

[Road_Trip_Rob]

Hello,
I am working on a 1997 Dutchman with a Norcold 6162 fridge.
It works fine on AC but will not stay lit on Gas. I cleaned the burner real good. This unit does not have a thermocouple. Does the spark/ignition sensor somehow tell the board to keep the valve open???
The igniter clicks and the burner will light with a nice blue flame. Then the clicking stops and the flame goes out after 30 seconds or so. Any ideas???
Thanks, Rob

[Road_Trip_Rob]

OK, don't ask me how, but I went out there to work on it today after work and it just started working! So now the gas valve stays open when the clicking stops. So I will let it run all night and see how well it cools the fridge.
Now on to my next problem with this camper, the hot water heater. I had to install a new pilot light burner tube & thermocouple. There was not one on the water heater because someone removed the old ones. I light the pilot burner manually with a long grill lighter. And the thermocouple does open the main gas tube. But it seems the pilot light tube is not in the right spot to light the main tube. The pilot light tube sits a little behind the end of the main gas tube. Should it be sitting more past the end of the main tube so the pilot flame will light the gas coming out of the main tube??? I'm not saying in front of the main tube. I'm saying on the side of the main tube but past the end of it. Any thoughts? I will make a separate post for this problem.
Thanks again everyone!
Rob

[dougrainer]

On the board where the electrode connects is called the PIEZO tower. That is the spark generator. take the board loose and verify the solder connections for that Tower are tight and not loose. If tight, then yes, the board needs replaced. Doug

[Road_Trip_Rob]

OK,
I installed a new spark electrode and it's doing the same thing as before.
It will click/spark and it light the bunner. There are small lights on the board that blink with the clicks. Then the clicking stops after 30 seconds or so and the flame goes out. So the valve never stays open. What next? the board??
Thanks, Rob

[Road_Trip_Rob]

Thank you all for your replies!
I ordered a new Spark eletrode & I will let you guys know if it works!
Thanks, Rob

[dougrainer]

The SPARK voltage is a HI voltage spark. So, if the electrode is defective(hairline cracks in the porceleun cover, the spark will travel thru. BUT, the return current for flame sense will NOT be able to overcome the leakage caused by the Porceleun. Replace the Spark electrode. Doug

[Old-Biscuit]

'Flame Proving'.....

When main flame lights off a milliamp signal is generated ---Flame Ionization/Rectification

That signal must return to circuit board to prove main flame is lit......no raw fuel flowing
No signal---circuit board drops DC to gas valve solenoid

Spark electrode is used for return path
Spark electrode gap 1/8"
Spark electrode engulfed in main flame
Spark electrode clean of soot/carbon ---clean with some emery cloth
Spark electrode high tension wore connectors CLEAN/TIGHT
Spark electrode ceramic insulator no cracks

Doesn't take much resistance to stop that milliamp signal.

[Dusty_R]

Keep this in mine while checking.
Flame in a conductor. So after the burner lights the flame is part of the electric circuit that keeps the coil energized that allows burner to stay light.

Dusty

[wnjj]

Yes, the ignition electrode also senses the flame. If it does not sense the flame after its sparking cycle, it will shut the gas off. Check for voltage at the gas solenoid coil wires or just replace the electrode.

[Artum_Snowbird]

On this page there is a service manual and schematic diagrams for your unit. 6162 information

good luck