Norcold Fridge Code

[reddrum]

I have a Norcold N621 fridge in an Eagle Cap 1160 truck camper. The fridge stopped working yesterday and is showing o on the display.

I went through the diagnostic in the service manual and did not see anything odd. There was an er for error, but nothing out of the ordinary with all of the checks. I cleared the error but it comes back after power cycling the fridge.

It doesn't work on ac or gas. When I restart it it tries AC, moves to DC, and then shows o. I've tried forcing modes with the same results.

I can hear some noise coming from it, but barely audible.

I tried disconnecting AC to the camper, checked the camper fuses, breakers and all appears fine.

I've read through the service manual and Googled around, but I cannot find an o code anywhere?

Does anyone know what an o code is?

Thanks in advance!

mike

[cooldavidt]

My Norcold N621 built circa 2003 fridge works, but is slowly failing as it cannot keep a cold temperature. Running about 50 degrees now.

I was away for 5 days returning yesterday. 4 of those were 'off grid' running on propane.

The interior temp then kept slipping downwards.

My volt meter showed my new twin Interstate golf cart batteries to be in good shape as we used very little power off grid as it was sunny and light here in the north country well into the evening. Meter reading was 11.9V

On the 5th day we moved and had a powered site. Same cooling performance from the fridge. Struggled to maintain a low temp.

I could hear the power panel cooling fan come on repeatedly. The only draw at that time was recharging the batteries and of course the fridge.

There is no ammonia smell, no service codes showing up as would be suggested by the Norcold owner manual.

The guy at the local RV repairs says it needs to be replaced!

Expensive.

Any ideas on how to proceed?

Repair?

Replace with the same unit?

Replace with a different set up? 110V?

[reddrum]

Gotcha. I really just put that in so people didn't jump on "that's a recall." 😉

[dougrainer]

reddrum wrote:
I figured it out that day luckily! I called Norcold and asked. Surprisingly they were willing to talk to a non-dealer and answered the question within a minute. I can not believe I have spent 10+ hours trying to figure this out and a minute-long phone call gave me the answer. I guess it is just finding the right person that has seen it.

The o code is a bad thermal temperature sensor. This is the safety switch that sits in the stack to cut it off if it gets too hot in the stack. This is the same switch Norcold had much trouble with and forced a recall years ago. I do NOT have one of the recall fridges, it is just a part that went bad.

To test out the theory of a bad sensor I bypassed it by directly connecting the two wires leading to it. The fridge fired up and worked perfectly. I have ordered a new switch that should arrive today.

Thanks for the help everyone!

That Thermal switch is not a recall type problem. ALL Current and older Norcolds EXCEPT the 1200/1210 models have this thermal switch. This thermal switch was on the 1200/1210, but was removed when the NEW recall control box systems were installed on the 1200/1210. Doug

[reddrum]

I figured it out that day luckily! I called Norcold and asked. Surprisingly they were willing to talk to a non-dealer and answered the question within a minute. I can not believe I have spent 10+ hours trying to figure this out and a minute-long phone call gave me the answer. I guess it is just finding the right person that has seen it.

The o code is a bad thermal temperature sensor. This is the safety switch that sits in the stack to cut it off if it gets too hot in the stack. This is the same switch Norcold had much trouble with and forced a recall years ago. I do NOT have one of the recall fridges, it is just a part that went bad.

To test out the theory of a bad sensor I bypassed it by directly connecting the two wires leading to it. The fridge fired up and worked perfectly. I have ordered a new switch that should arrive today.

Thanks for the help everyone!

[dougrainer]

I think what you are seeing is the NO CO code. On your model the LED display will show n making that n with 3 straight lines. If so, that is why the NEW board showed the same code. You have an operational problem and the refer is throwing that code to prevent operation of the refer. When you get the NO CO, you turn the refer OFF for 10 seconds and restart. If you do NOT find and fix the NO CO, then it throws the O code a 2nd time and locks out the board and the board will not operate until you do a HARD reset. So you probably have 2 good boards and both need a hard reset to clear the NO CO codes. Doug

[reddrum]

Naturally it worked for a while and then died again. arrrgh And naturally I find out right before I am to leave on a trip.

But, I had ordered a board just in case something went wrong. I replaced the board and still get the same code.

When I turn the fridge on it tries AC, then gas, then shows a small o on the screen. ie: the middle segment and all segments to the side and directly below.

I checked the voltage where it goes in the board on the bottom right, 12 volts. I also jiggled all of the connectors leading to the elements, etc.

Anyone have ideas? Or, next steps for troubleshooting?

Thank you in advance!

mike

[reddrum]

I went out to check Diagnostic Screen 8, turned the fridge on and it fired right up! I flipped it to AC and it worked, then gas and it worked! IIRC 8 showed segment 3 while it was not working. Memory could be off though...

It has been sitting with the o code on it for sometime (maybe up to a day) because the stuff in the fridge was hot. Is it possible that leaving it off for an hour let it reset, or cool, or something?

If it goofs up again I'll be sure to document all the screens.

Thank you for the response!

mike

[Old-Biscuit]

What indications do you get when in Diagnostic Mode Screen #8?


Diagnostic Screen #8: Outputs

Individual segments appear for these outputs from the refrigerator controls:

Segment 1............The power board is supplying power to the AC heater.

Segment 2............The power board is supplying power to the DC heater.

Segment 3............The power board is supplying power to the divider heater.

Segment 4............The power board is supplying power to the gas valve.

Segment 5............The power board is supplying power to the interior light.

Segment 6............The power board is supplying power to the spark electrode.



No outputs.......bad board