โJul-19-2017 08:00 PM
โJul-21-2017 11:11 AM
dougrainer wrote:
To the OP, need more info but I will assume you have the 1200 since you have 9 tstat settings. FIRST thing is to verify the rear cooling fans are running. THAT is the most common cause of low performance in the bottom and the freezer works. Doug
โJul-21-2017 08:59 AM
โJul-21-2017 08:57 AM
3 tons wrote:
jplante4 wrote:
Check that the drain from the drip pan is stopped up. This allows warm air to run into the fridge part.
' Stopped up'..... what does this mean??
โJul-21-2017 08:50 AM
โJul-21-2017 08:15 AM
โJul-21-2017 08:04 AM
3 tons wrote:dougrainer wrote:
The OP needs help. Not a bunch of Yahoos arguing over which type refer is best in their opinion and the needs for their type refer. It gets annoying when someone posts help and we have to wade thru a bunch of BS. You don't like Norcold? Fine, just SHUT UP. You have made your point on EVERY Norcold thread for the past dozen years.
To the OP, need more info but I will assume you have the 1200 since you have 9 tstat settings. FIRST thing is to verify the rear cooling fans are running. THAT is the most common cause of low performance in the bottom and the freezer works. Doug
How about 5 PAGES on "How many amps does a Fantastic Fan draw" !!
โJul-21-2017 07:41 AM
dougrainer wrote:
The OP needs help. Not a bunch of Yahoos arguing over which type refer is best in their opinion and the needs for their type refer. It gets annoying when someone posts help and we have to wade thru a bunch of BS. You don't like Norcold? Fine, just SHUT UP. You have made your point on EVERY Norcold thread for the past dozen years.
To the OP, need more info but I will assume you have the 1200 since you have 9 tstat settings. FIRST thing is to verify the rear cooling fans are running. THAT is the most common cause of low performance in the bottom and the freezer works. Doug
โJul-20-2017 08:11 PM
โJul-20-2017 07:40 PM
MrWizard wrote:
residential might not be the best option for the OP TC, in his sig pix
its a matter of battery storage space
LP is very cost efficent
but we full time in a 1995 DP have had a residential compressor fridge for 7 years, and it works great, and we mainly dry camp/boondock
compressor fridge on electric, uses less power than RV fridge on electric
โJul-20-2017 07:27 PM
โJul-20-2017 07:15 PM
MrWizard wrote:
residential might not be the best option for the OP TC, in his sig pix
its a matter of battery storage space
LP is very cost efficent
but we full time in a 1995 DP have had a residential compressor fridge for 7 years, and it works great, and we mainly dry camp/boondock
compressor fridge on electric, uses less power than RV fridge on electric
โJul-20-2017 06:58 PM
โJul-20-2017 06:48 PM
jplante4 wrote:
Check that the drain from the drip pan is stopped up. This allows warm air to run into the fridge part.
โJul-20-2017 06:39 PM
โJul-20-2017 06:22 PM
Ivylog wrote:
OP, try increasing the air flow behind the refer.
Sidecar, do you have a residential refrigerator in a RV? My mistake was spending way too much money on my NoCold...should have go residential sooner and we boondock often. With the residential I actually run my generator less than before...BUT I added a 100 amp charger with the battery system for the refer.
PS: Went from 12 to 21 cuft and the 21 weighs less than the 12. At 40,000+ lbs another two batteries will not be noticed.