Only getting 8 volts from converter at battery connection

[all4coop]

This started with AC compressor not coming on, checked all connections and there is no power going to compressor, compacitor is good but the start boost is not good (got one ordered). While trying to diagnose this problem I noticed the lights were dim. The fresh battery that was put in the camper now only has 6 volts. I checked all fuses at electric box and they are good, I am hooked to shore power (pole barn wired for camper). With the battery out the campers lights are dim and the slides will barely move. If this is my converter could it also be causing the AC compressor to not come on? I hooked a fresh battery to the camper but the AC compressor still will not start. Condenser fan and blower will work though. Thanks

[all4coop]

there is no power going to the compressor at pressure switch and the compressor does not even try to start to harm it.
I have no GFCI switch in camper
not sure where the converter is plugged in I am assuming its hardwired in. I will have to pull it out to check the voltage there. Thanks

[STBRetired]

The start capacitor is a REQUIRED component. If it is bad, purchase a new one and install it. Repeated run attempts with a failed or missing start capacitor can permanently damage the compre$$or.

Check the outlet where the converter is plugged in. Make sure it has 120V. Could have a tripped circuit breaker or GFCI in your rig.

[all4coop]

I have good 120 volt power at plug both where it plugs in and at the plug ins throughout the trailer/
With battery disconnected the lights are dim and i checked the voltage by pulling a bulb out and it was 8 volts there.
I recharged my battery and reinstalled it and lights were bright but AC compressor did not start ( again the smaller starter compacitor is bad so I just have it unhooked, not sure it has to have it to start or not, my hvac go to man said it should start without it)
I hear no fan noise like I use to at the converter.
I checked the voltage at where the pos/neg are located I think coming out of the convertor. I says positive and negative on the board and its 10 volts there to.

[Sam_Spade]

all4coop wrote:
I hooked a fresh battery to the camper but the AC compressor still will not start. Condenser fan and blower will work though. Thanks

IF....we can safely assume that the "fresh" battery was fully charged, than that test pretty much proves that you have TWO problems.

But....you never actually said if you are getting AC power to the air conditioner at all. If not, you may not be getting any AC input to the converter either.

[time2roll]

You do need good 12v power to operate the A/C controls and thermostat. New battery should have handled that.

Check your fuses. Especially the main fuses next to the stack. I speculate the battery may have gone in with reverse polarity.

[Crazy_Ray]

Roy Ken do you think the OP can understand what you have posted?? Use the KISS program.JMO

[RoyB]

Sounds like to me you have lost your 120VAC connection at the pole barn... This means the converter/charger is not ON and the battery has run down on you. When a battery goes below 12.0VDC it means you are approximately at 50% charges state. ZERO charge state on a battery is around 10.5VDC...



I would look first for why the converter/charger is not ON. The converter/charger should put out at least 13.6VDC when it is powered ON.

AT the pole barn connection you should look for 120AC VOLTAGE readings at the 30A Pedestal receptacle...

30A

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Using a 120VAC Circuit tester at the pole barn connection using a RV30A-15A adapter you should see the bottom two ORANGE LIGHTs for 'CORRECT' being ON telling you all three connections for HOT-NEUTRAL-GROUND are correctly wired.


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I think you have lost your SHORE POWER 120VAC connection feeding the 120VAC Power Distribution Panel...


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If you have good 120VAC feeding the Trailer and your converter/charger is ON then you need to read the DC OUTPUT VOLTAGE at the converter/charger DC OUTPUT connection for 13.6VDC. If all of the connection between the converter/cbarger DC OUTPUT connection are correct then you also see this 13.6VDC on the battery terminals. If you only read the 8VDC at the converter/charger terminals and the battery terminals then the converter/charge is OFF or FAILED. Both the Converter/charger and the battery DC output connections feed the same point on the 12VDC Distribution point. IN this case you are actually reading the 8VDC coming from the drained down battery. Your ceiling lights being dim tells you this as well... If the converter/charger was ON and working then you would see bright ceiling lights and read the 13.6VDC on the battery terminals. Clear as mud - right????

Let everyone know what you read and they will start responding what is wrong...

My bets is the converter/charger is not putting out its normal 13.6VDC and since the battery readings is only 8VDC and your interior lights are dim this means your now run down battery is feeding the 12VDC Distribution Panel OK. This means to me the Converter/Charger unit is OFF for whatever reason... Either has NO 120VAC input voltage or a FAILED unit...

If you have just hooked up your batteries before turning on shore etc you may have also wired the battery terminal in REVERSE and blown the two REVERSE POLARITY fuses. You would have seen sparks at the battery terminal for a second when you hooked it up backwards...

Roy Ken

[enblethen]

It could be low or no voltage from shore power.
Verify shore power with known good appliance. (Drill motor)

[Artum_Snowbird]

Check the wiring from the converter to the battery. My bet is you have either a loose positive wire or a loose negative wire. In my case, same thing, my negative wire took about 3 turns on the converter negative terminal strip.