Planning Solar Panels

[evy]

Hi everyone,

I'm working on my very first DIY camper conversion, using a 2010 extended Ford E250.

I was looking at solar panels yesterday, I was going to make the move eventually but maybe sooner than I originally thought.

I just want to plan where the panels will be mounted on my roof rack and how many I needed, this is what I came up with.

I can fit a big 285W solar panel on the side of my van, with hinges on top and some sort of an adjustable bracket (see drawing)

I can also fit two smaller panels on the top of the roof rack but only in a specific area, I need space for my canoe or kayak on the right side and I can't put them too close to the rear which is the highest point of my van, as of now I have 2-3 inches of space when I back up through my garage door...

There probably is a 100W thin model I could install, around 20"x48" ish ?

Take a look at my roof rack drawing, I added the panels (clouds)

Also Is 485W of solar energy worth it? I don't know much about solar, I'll have two 6v golf cart batteries at 225AH.
My rig is fully equipped, 3 way fridge, microwave + convection, LED lights, pump, fans, AC + DC outlets...

I red that you can get more energy out of your panels by tilting them to face the sun.
Does anything exist on the market today to manually adjust the angle of a panel, I was thinking of adding a sturdy central bracket.

Thanks for any help! 🙂

[grizzzman]

westend wrote:
evy,
Good panel and you have the system basics correct. If you remove your kayak at the camping site so that the panel can get full duration of sun, you should be good for two batteries.

The choices involved in upgrading or controller choice are pretty much as BFL13 outlines. A lot hinges on your use now and future use of the 12V system. I'd suggest to start with a single because Canadian Solar isn't going away any time soon (allows for matching panel in the future). If you do start to use a lot of 12V for inverting or other common 12V uses, more batteries, more panel, and a controller that will handle that would be in your future.

Bonne chance!

I would "NOT" suggest that you step on a flex panel unless you like to buy em over and over.

[BFL13]

The 30a will do the two panels lying flat. You would only need the 40 if you got more panels, or if you tilted the two panels, and that would be on a different RV from that van, unless you set them up as portables on the ground tilted up facing South.

You probably will be fine with just the one panel unless you intend to use solar in the darker and colder half of the year. Depends on your daily AH usage.

You might do a little better financially to just get the 20a Eco-W MPPT controller for the one panel and then if you ever decided to get more panels, maybe with a different RV, who knows, then choose a different controller for that set-up, which might not be the Tracer--might be other choices you like when you have some time in with solar, and more products appear in the market. Need a good crystal ball. 🙂

You only need to see the display on the Tracer controller when first setting it up. The default charging profile is suitable for many folks so you don't likely need the remote to customize its charging profile.

It is set to get to 14.6ish Vabs, holds that for two hours, and then drops to Float of 13.6 ISTR. Works for me, here, in the summer.

[Boon_Docker]

Go with a 40 amp controller. That way you have room for expansion.

The controller you linked to is the same as the EPSolar model.

You can hide the controller and use a remote display if you want to see what is going on between the panels and batteries.

[evy]

BFL13 wrote:
I have a 255w version of that panel I got here April 2015 for $289 plus tax, so that is an excellent price you have there.

I only use the one panel and get around 15-16 amps to the four batteries with it. That is plenty for us in the summer where we use about 70AH a day. I use an Eco-Worthy 20a MPPT controller with that one panel. Works great.

However, recently I got another controller to try it out and like it too, a Tracer. ( I was using that with a different set of panels)

If you get or plan to get two of those panels, then you can't use the 20 a Eco-W, you would need the 30a Tracer.

You are allowed to over-panel the Tracer some as it self- limits the input. With the panels flat you will be under 30 amps anyway. The Tracer has 100voc limit too, so you could choose series or parallel.

Ideally, you should have both your panels the same, but they can be different brands as long as they have very similar specs.

So I suppose you should get the one and the 30a Tracer and then if you do get another panel, your controller will still be ok for the pair.

You don't have to buy the remote, so the just Tracer itself would be about $60 less.

http://www.wegosolar.com/products.php?product=EPS%252dMPPT%252d30%252dREMOTE-30A-12%7B47%7D24V-MPPT-...

Thanks for the info guys,

I was actually thinking of going with the 40amp model, I heard a lot of positive feedback, and just in case I really want more panels?? is that a wise decision or am I exaggerating?

I have a couple of questions about the controller, I have seen the same model but with different brand names? Epsolar, Y-solar, Trace, Greesonic like this one :
https://www.amazon.ca/GreeSonic-Autoswitch-Controller-Regulator-Tracer4210A/dp/B01F2ZY36Y/ref=sr_1_2...
I'm confused...

I made a mistake on my drawing, I don't think I can add a 265w panel near the back of my roof rack, the rear is the highest point and I barely clear the top of the opening of my garage door, I will confirm after buying the first 265w and trying to go through the opening with the panel temporarily mounted in the rear, I know the front clears ok.

The other thing is that if it does fit in the back, there's barely enough space to walk around up there since I can't walk on the panels, I have received negative and positive feedback about those slim flexible panels but they would really be perfect up there since I can walk on them, 2 or 3 x 100w + 1 x 265w
But I've also been told not to miss match solar panels... and I think this is what I would be doing right? grr this is confusing lol.

Also Do I need to see the MPPT controller all the time? or I can install it under the seat and take a peek once in a while?
I already have a Xantrex XBM battery monitor that someone just gave me on the sportsmobile forum (thanks Greg) and I installed it where I can see it, do I need anything else? (to monitor)



http://usersmanuals1.com/art/xantrex-battery-monitor-manuals/30461

[Boon_Docker]

The controller that BFL13 linked to is an excellent controller. I have been using an EPSolar for many years now and I'm quite pleased with it.

[westend]

evy,
Good panel and you have the system basics correct. If you remove your kayak at the camping site so that the panel can get full duration of sun, you should be good for two batteries.

The choices involved in upgrading or controller choice are pretty much as BFL13 outlines. A lot hinges on your use now and future use of the 12V system. I'd suggest to start with a single because Canadian Solar isn't going away any time soon (allows for matching panel in the future). If you do start to use a lot of 12V for inverting or other common 12V uses, more batteries, more panel, and a controller that will handle that would be in your future.

Bonne chance!

[BFL13]

I have a 255w version of that panel I got here April 2015 for $289 plus tax, so that is an excellent price you have there.

I only use the one panel and get around 15-16 amps to the four batteries with it. That is plenty for us in the summer where we use about 70AH a day. I use an Eco-Worthy 20a MPPT controller with that one panel. Works great.

However, recently I got another controller to try it out and like it too, a Tracer. ( I was using that with a different set of panels)

If you get or plan to get two of those panels, then you can't use the 20 a Eco-W, you would need the 30a Tracer.

You are allowed to over-panel the Tracer some as it self- limits the input. With the panels flat you will be under 30 amps anyway. The Tracer has 100voc limit too, so you could choose series or parallel.

Ideally, you should have both your panels the same, but they can be different brands as long as they have very similar specs.

So I suppose you should get the one and the 30a Tracer and then if you do get another panel, your controller will still be ok for the pair.

You don't have to buy the remote, so the just Tracer itself would be about $60 less.

http://www.wegosolar.com/products.php?product=EPS%252dMPPT%252d30%252dREMOTE-30A-12%7B47%7D24V-MPPT-...

[evy]

Ok so I'm about to pull the trigger on this deal and wanted your approval.

These solar panels are from a very reliable company and at a great price, 225$ for 265w (0.85$/watt)
I also like the fact that they are all black.

http://solarenergydc.com/products/solar-panel-250w-24vdc-canadian-solar-1#

Can I buy only one for now and buy an "ok" MPPT charge controller and hook it up to my 2 GC2 6v batteries 215AH?
Would this be a good setup for a beginner like me?

Once I figure out what I really need after using the camper for a season I could adjust my setup and maybe buy another 265w 24v panel? (does it have to be the same brand?)

This is my layout on the roof rack, there's only two places I could fit these huge panels, the kayak won't be there all the time.

[evy]

It's fiberglass, a 2010 5.4L V8.
it was a fedex van in Florida.
Here's the story :

http://m.worktruckonline.com/article/1226/the-armadillo-s-high-profile

[Naio]

Off topic, but what the heck is up with that van body? It looks like the top 2/3 is grafted on. Is it metal or fiberglass? Where did you get it????

[Almot]

evy wrote:
What?? Why?? Explanation please.

On the photo it looks like the mesh is raised above the roof almost to the level of A/C (or whatever is this thing in the middle). This in itself wouldn't have caused problems but you also have low garage clearance. OK, mesh doesn't limit your solar options but garage does, if this makes you feel better :).

Without mesh you could place panels wherever you have space, raising panels very little, about 0.5"-3.4". Normally people raise them higher but 3/4" would have to do, in your case.

If mesh is horizontal, then you have yet another problem because like SMK said panels should have some slope for water drainage, not much, a few degrees. This naturally occurs when panels conform to arched roof profile, but in your case mesh is flat. Though you said it's higher in the rear, so maybe there is a slope. Insufficient data.

Without mesh you could consider flexible amorphous panels - not the one in your picture earlier but panels sold in 20ft rolls. There were people that glued it to motorhome roof. Attaching it to this mesh looks more difficult to me.

Just my thoughts.

[time2roll]

4x 100w is fine and I would still mount them flat on the rack.
Actually they are a little better with some tilt so any water runs off.

A couple cradles to hold and raise the canoe and you could have 900 watts up there.

[evy]

Almot wrote:
This rack-mesh is limiting your solar options A LOT.

What?? Why?? Explanation please.

[Almot]

This rack-mesh is limiting your solar options A LOT.