Portable solar panel

[boulderado]

We're not doing much off-the-grid camping, but occasionally we venture off the beaten path and promptly run out of juice with our Interstate class 27 deep cycle 🙂

We're considering making some upgrades to the trailer (including solar panels, a better converter, AGM etc.), but aren't quite ready to commit (wife might want new trailer instead).

So in the meantime I am looking for a portable panel that will keep the battery charged up enough to run the fridge 24/7, water pump and a few halogen bulbs at night. We're mostly out here in the West so plenty of sunshine during summer months.

[red31]

Almot wrote:

There is nothing to make up. MC4 takes a bit of effort to disconnect. Dust, salt from marine air, cold weather making plastic stiff - a lot of factors in play. Controller should be connected to battery first, not at the same time with panel. That's why there are disconnects.

more bologna. the disconnect on a suitcase is on the batt side, there is no need to use it. One has to connect the batt last hopefully with the panel facing down or pointed away from sun, this is a non issue. One can use the MC4 to add an extension or to change out the alligators clips or ...

Not using solar 24/7 is a shame but that is how many folks use their suitcase, only when they camp. When a trailer is garaged/covered the panel sits out in the sun and one employs a trailer batt on/off.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Check out WEATHER PAC

Real connectors, SUBMERSIBLE. Reconnectable and you damned sure cannot easily yank them apart accidentally. When soldered rather than crimped, then smeared with silicone dielectric grease these suckers are awesome. And Ooooooooo they are just MADE to connect and disconnect.

[Almot]

red31 wrote:

that why he makes stuff up about portable.

I bought a 100w ecoworthy suitcase for <$200 delivered.
Perfect the ignorant person I bought it for, trailer storage.

There is nothing to make up. MC4 takes a bit of effort to disconnect. Dust, salt from marine air, cold weather making plastic stiff - a lot of factors in play. Controller should be connected to battery first, not at the same time with panel. That's why there are disconnects. Renogy uses all kinds of connectors, can be this and can be that, and controller can be Viewstar 10 or something else again, no matter what the manual says.

Yes, people who don't know much, don't want DIY much, or don't have time - they have no other choice.

Controller without proper charging algorithm that is only good for storage - people use it for camping. Because it is "simple", has display and buttons. Or it has nothing, no buttons, no adjustments, and they still use it. Small panel can't charge battery full, and they still use it, because it's small and convenient.

Then they come here, - Whaa i'm not getting enough juice from my battery 🙂

Your choice.

[red31]

wbwood wrote:

Have you owned the suitcase? I do and you do not have to disconnect and reconnect wires after the first time... They stay connected with the alligator clips.. you clip them on the battery and voila...disconnect when done...roll up cables place back on side and then fold over the panel and snap shut. Then you put back in it's protective case....very easy....and no connecting or disconnect the mc4 connectors that come with it.....

all red herrings, that why he makes stuff up about portable.

I bought a 100w ecoworthy suitcase for <$200 delivered.
Perfect the ignorant person I bought it for, trailer storage.
The waterproof controller on back is cr@p AFIK, set @ 13.8v
I did add a night light set to run 3hrs each dusk.
It has helped saved one battery from excess abuse.

[Almot]

Controller can be upgraded, no big deal.
It seems that Renogy guys install whatever connectors they have in bin, so there is a chance that OP will get Anderson instead of MC4 :)...

All good as long as it harvests enough. 100W is such a small array.

Later if they decide on permanent solar, 2*50W panels will be more pain than a single 140-160W.

[wbwood]

Almot wrote:


And again, MC4 is not a good choice for quick disconnect. Inconvenient in frequent use. They are OK for semi-permanent interconnects between the panels though.

Have you owned the suitcase? I do and you do not have to disconnect and reconnect wires after the first time... They stay connected with the alligator clips.. you clip them on the battery and voila...disconnect when done...roll up cables place back on side and then fold over the panel and snap shut. Then you put back in it's protective case....very easy....and no connecting or disconnect the mc4 connectors that come with it.....

[steveh27]

profdant139 wrote:
We have a Chinese no-name 120 watt portable suitcase thing -- it is wonderful. Free juice from the sky!

Yes, we have to deploy it and store it -- but it means we can park in the shade and put the panel in the sun. If you decide to use a longer cable, get a thick one -- a thin cable will have a lot of resistance and will cause a voltage drop over a longer run.

X2, I like my panel and have had it for a few years. Don't use it often, but when I do it's good.

[red31]

VS 20 or 30 then, the OP could be up and running in minutes after a suitcase kit arrives at the front door or any camping spot. Modifications for those that can.

Opening the back of a panel and rewiring may not be a problem for all but is for some as is buying crimping tools. No need.

The convenience outweighs any drawbacks for many.

[Almot]

red31 wrote:

Try MC4/aligator and a very programmable controller with LCD
but there you go again.

OP should stop by solarblvd and get the 140 or 160 watt, the view star would need to come from somewhere eles, tray cables and as much MC4 cable as needed.

And again, MC4 is not a good choice for quick disconnect. Inconvenient in frequent use. They are OK for semi-permanent interconnects between the panels though.

I agree on buying cable separately - there is a chance that 10ft provided with the kit will not be enough.

MC4 cable "probably" won't be necessary. With a single panel no interconnect (btw panels) is needed, and from controller to battery I would look for a cable not as springy as MC4.

Viewstar 10 is indeed hard to find in normal stores. One of those products that people buy China-direct, or bundled with a kit from their US distributors. However, with 160W panel this controller just would not be a good idea. And neither would Morningstar SS-10-12. IMO, 10A controller is a bit marginal for 160W array in places like Co. I would get 12-15A.

Like I said, that 100W kit is an easy start for people who don't know where to start from. To me its drawbacks and limitations don't overweight the convenience. "Mostly", it's a low wattage. And then, inherent "cons" of any portable.

[profdant139]

We have a Chinese no-name 120 watt portable suitcase thing -- it is wonderful. Free juice from the sky!

Yes, we have to deploy it and store it -- but it means we can park in the shade and put the panel in the sun. If you decide to use a longer cable, get a thick one -- a thin cable will have a lot of resistance and will cause a voltage drop over a longer run.

[Boon_Docker]

wbwood wrote:
Renogy 100watt solar suitcase....

X3

Stay as far away as you can from Zamp and Go Power, total rip off.

[red31]

Almot wrote:

red31 wrote:


:?

OK, maybe for some people this suitcase will not be an "easy" introduction 🙂

Anderson was on the pigtail with alligator clips. Now - cheaper 2-pin connector.

Zamp aint renogy

Try MC4/aligator and a very programmable controller with LCD
but there you go again.

OP should stop by solarblvd and get the 140 or 160 watt, the view star would need to come from somewhere eles, tray cables and as much MC4 cable as needed.

[Almot]

smkettner wrote:
160 watt panel $129

Controller $50

And $15 jumper cable with crocodiles cut off on one end, the thinnest wire that you can find.

[Almot]

red31 wrote:


:?

OK, maybe for some people this suitcase will not be an "easy" introduction 🙂

Anderson was on the pigtail with alligator clips. Now - cheaper 2-pin connector.

[time2roll]

160 watt panel $129

Controller $50